a simple question:

kinugawa billet compressor wheel worths the stock wheel replacement?

have you seen any differences in dyno chart comparing with the stock cast wheel, at same pressure?

is there any manufacturer better than kinugawa?

please share your thoughts..

thank ya

 

their products are nice. point milled on a 5 axis mill and balanced by Schenck Germany

there's one company that's nicer but they don't sell to the general public and they cost more.

 

There is some threads about these on the DSM board. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/bil...wheels.425629/

KTS Japan is also mentioned and talked about a bit.

 

KTS has a new huge facility in Singapore. I talked to their US rep at PRI last year. funny thing is they machine and supply wheels to a lot of these "custom" people.

KTS has a seriously advanced production line but like I said, they don't sell to the general public, only wholesale. although me and their US rep are working towards me being a US dealer/supplier. hopefully it works out.

 

thank ya

i suppose that a used MHI 20G with CHRA and billet wheel must be a good low cost turbo application for b16-d16 engines, instead of buing a new t04e 50trim

 

not really. Real MHI TD05H and TD06 20Gs are at a premium due to MHI prices for the cartridge. A 50 trim would actually be less expensive.

 

Yea MHI products have gotten insanely expensive over the years. I don't even want to know what my legit MHI TE06H-25C cartridge would cost to replace, if there's a replacement available at all.

this is why I'm probably gonna go ahead and put a td07 25g compressor wheel and housing on it, since if the 25c wheel is damaged there's no replacing it and the 25c has the same exducer size, hub height, and shaft diameter as the td07 compressor wheels. Rebuild kits for the CHRA and turbine wheels are plentiful so I'm not worried about that.

kinugawa does offer a replacement turbine wheel made out of inconel 728 (much more durable than the OEM MHI material) and it's 11 bladed as opposed to MHIs 12 and it has slightly better aerodynamics.

the td06h and te06h turbine wheels are identical in every aspect except the shaft diameter of the td06 is 6.5mm and the te06 is 7mm. it's basically MHIs version of a "big shaft" turbo.

you're easily looking at twice the cost for a 20g compared to a 50 trim, even with a kinugawa 20g because the cost of parts to make the initial molds and tooling for replicating components is expensive.

 

than i guess a tO4e trim 50 with kinugawa billet wheel is a proper turbo for b16 engine.

 

They don't make billet wheels for the Garrett "t" series... no one does.

 

Not that sells to the public as a separate piece, anyway.

 

True, I think kts might offer something for the t series lineup but I'm not 100% sure. I'll have to check my pricing sheet to see.

 

I've seen a number of billet wheels available and being used that will fit garrett "t" series turbos.

Everything is available you just need to know where to look

 

Well a lot of wheels will fit a t series turbine shaft. I've never seen a purpose built t series billet wheel and I have a pretty good relationship with kinugawa, KTS, and Pure Turbos, along with TheShodan.

I'll double check my KTS part number book but I don't think they have one, at least not going by what Duong told me. however KTS can build a wheel for anything.

 

Ok just looked back over my KTS stuff, they do offer wheels for the T series turbos but they aren't listed by trim. Mostly by the OEM application with a lot of varying sizes. And as usual they are all exstock orders which require a minimum quantity (around 10 iirc)

I'll work on breaking down the various wheels into more common "trims"

Maybe if we can get a group buy going we could get a few wheels.

 

I'm thinking about throwing one of the 11-blade 67mm wheels on my personal old-*** T3/T67 H.O.

 

It would be fun to see what billet wheel option you could use from KTS to do an HX35 or HX40 upgrade. Potentially a relatively cost effective and fairly potent unit.

That would be interesting to see the results of.

 

Kts offers a wheel for the hx35, hx40/he351, as well as the h1c, h1e, h2d, etc. kinugawa also offers I think one or two wheels for a few Holsets as well.

like I said I'll scan over my product line sheet and see what I can find... there's a shitload of wheels on like 10 pages with tiny tiny font

 

a billet compressor wheel VS stock wheel dyno chart at same pressure is sg definetely worth seeing!!!

also a group buy would be awsome....

 

I've been scouring the net for a while now for the answer to this exact question without success. has any progress been made on answering this question?

Also, could someone educate me on differences in airflow with the different blade designs? Specifically, kinugawa makes their replacement billet wheels in two styles: 6+6 blade without extended tips, and 11+0 blade with extended tips.

and lastly, are Mamba wheels identical to Kinugawa wheels?

 

i ve been searching also a lot but it seems that there isnt a lot of difference by using a billet compressor wheel. If the billet is much lighter than the cast aluminioum wheel, yes it will get some earlier 200-300 rpm spool up, and if the design is more aggressive than the cast wheel, also you will get gains but in high pressure ratios (over 15 psi)

more aggressive design means that the most important influence comes from the compressor blade outlet angle. State of the art turbocharger compressors have backward curved blades at the outlet. Strong backward curvature leads to higher efficiencies and maximum map width but also leads to high tip speeds with the consequence of relatively high stresses.

 

I ended up buying a drop in billet wheel for my 60 trim t3 a few months ago. It was the best $87 I ever spent on my car! Airflow and efficiency increased by around 30%!! I went with the 11 blade design with extended tip.
I don't have any dyno comparison charts though unfortunately, at least not at same boost level with both wheels. I can say though the stock wheel I had spooling to 22 and tapering down to 17, then just by dropping in the billet wheel it stayed at steady 23psi across the board. spool time is near identical, and the sound is definitely a little different

 

did u balanced the chra after switching to a billet wheel? My shop say i should balanced the wheel after remove or switch

 

some billet wheel constructors claim that balanced is not needed, though in my opinion it is better to be balanced.

 

I did not balance the complete assembly. the wheel comes component balanced. I know my turbine wheel is balanced properly as I had that component balanced not too long ago. so theoretically the two pieces mated together should do well. component balancing is usually good enough to not need assembly balancing. in fact, most manufacturers only component balance their factory turbo parts. full assembly balancing is obviously better, but not always necessary. So really what it all boils down to is how well the turbine in yours is balanced

 

You have to balance them together. Individual balance is fine, but to be absolutely sure, they need to be balanced as ONE.