i have a schwitzer s3oo with a 60mm inducer compressor wheel ( 7 + 7)
blades .
i want to upgrade but i would like to know which of the following compressor wheels would be the best choice , in terms of spool time and overall performance .
a: 63mm billet 6+6 blades
b: 63mm billet 11 blades

 

search garrett gtx vs. garrett gt series turbos

 

That really doesn't answer the question. A splitter-blade design vs. a single blade design has differing properties. It all depends upon the contour and purpose of the compressor wheel itself. Number of blades doesn't really mean much if the rest of the profile isn't set to match well with it.

 

very true.

 

The GTX line that has been copied to death by other "3rd party" manufacturers (we know who they are) unfortunately, copied that particular wheel without knowing exactly why it was designed the way that it was; except for the fact that it is considered "different" compared to other billet wheel designs on the market from other companies. See, the full bladed wheel has blades of equal length that originally came with a straight-lined backwall design on its wheel for higher torque, like on tractors, diesels, and other industrial applications that use low rpms and little wastegate control. Even though these older style designs produced a slightly higher pressure efficiency level, they had trouble getting enough air at higher speeds, which is why they easily reached surge levels and were not the best to use for automotive applications that wanted to use higher rpms in addition to their efficient CFM capabilities in their 4 cylinder applications.... Well, I'll say it like this.. they worked just not very well compared to today's standards.

Using a curved backwall really helped with these full-bladed designs, as well as the use of extending the leading tip edge of the exducer (Borg-Warner called it Extended Tip Technology in 2004-2005, and was the first company to enable its use in a cast aluminum wheel with fantastic results.) This is where the GTX design came into play, and combined the use of a full blade design (11-bladed for GTX, 9-bladed for GTW) to help with lower end torque of an application, when it's properly matched, but still work with higher rotational speeds for high VE applications that are going into the 2.3-3.5PR ranges.

Now, when using a splitter-blade compressor wheel, (like your 6 +6), you have to know whether or not there was any change in the actual profile of the compressor wheel in order to know if there's going to be any significant change or not from your current cast wheel that you have. (You were saying you have a 60mm S300 turbo, which sounds like the standard wheel and not the ETT wheel).

When you change the angle of a splitter blade compressor wheel, that allows for one of two things. If the main blade slightly covers over the smaller blade, like in the FP HTA, STC, and the Precision Gen 2 series (man, did they come late to the party on that concept!!), that allows for the air coming into the compressor inlet to slam against the first part of the wheel and draw itself into the second blade. This means that the compressor wheel is designed to run at higher pressure ratios (over 2.6-3.8) in order to maximize its efficiency at higher rotational speeds. This is why this design is used more commonly on aftermarket gasoline engine applications that run higher rpms on average, because they typically run at much higher pressure ratios than other makes of turbocharged cars. Many also take advantage of the backwall design and change the exducer size and profile to something much better than the original to help with better matching for different turbine wheel profiles. So check what the exducer is as well the fact that you're

This means that their effective range of boost is slightly higher. The drawback is that with these higher pressure ratios, there is more heat that has resulted from more compressed air. This ingested heated air creates a good loss in power, but with ported-shroud housing designs, better use of software/hardware to work with these slight increases in ingested air temperatures, these designs seem to work very effectively at these higher rotational speeds, and since they like to run at much higher pressure ratios the necessary anyway, it works for people like us.

So, to directly answer your question. The answer is...

If your new wheel is coming from BullseyePower (which it should, and no one else), then you're looking at very good upgradability with the 6 +6 splitter blade wheel on your Honda. It's made of a much better construction and grade aluminum, but more importantly, they actually have changed the design profile of their 62mm and 63mm versions to fit the Borg-Warner backplate much better with less machining. If you get the standard 60mm that is in a billet wheel, BEP nor other have changed anything by way of their design; It'll just look shinier..

Bullseye Power's 63mm ETT design



XSBoost Turbochargers's 7+7 wheel design for Borg-Warners - Knock-off of Garrett GTX wheel


Apex Boost compressor wheel systems.


There aren't going to be any argumentative changes of 6+6 vs. 7+7 or 8+8 like some Holset thread.

I hope that you understand why blade changes are made and not just look at number of blades to determine what's best for you. I'd send it in the BEP, really.

Good luck.

 

thanks for explaining ..
the turbo is a standard s300 168823 with a BEP 70AR turbine housing , i'm using it on a1600cc motor that's in my drag car .
i didn't buy a new compressor wheel as yet , i wasn't sure what to get as an upgrade .

 

i was looking @ these though

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Borg-Warner-S300-S363-Turbo-SPX-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-/111662316802?hash=item19ff97bd02&vxp=mtr
63mm Billet Compressor Wheel For S363 BorgWarner - Mike Turbo

 

Go to Bullseyepower. Send them your turbo, get it properly installed and balanced. Never look back or ahead. Without it being rebalanced you're asking for trouble. NO eBAY.

 

Yea even though the wheels are "zero balanced" if you want to have any sort of reliability and lifespan out of the turbo then getting it balanced is in your best interest.

In regards to blade count, if you're going to be running high boost pressures over 18-20psi with an emphasis on making lots of power then typically the lower blade count "splitter" wheels are your best option. 6+6 tends to balance things out in terms of low boost performance and high boost performance. the single bladed "gtx" style wheels typically flow better at lower shaft speeds and lower boost pressures, which is why you see a lot of these style turbochargers having slightly faster spool times than their splitter blade counterparts. The single bladed wheels also tend to be a bit quieter, so if you want the noise factor you might be a little let down.

I'm not saying that single bladed wheels are bad, they still make power and perform quite well but they are best suited for a certain application, just like the splitter wheels. In your case if it's high boost, high rpm power then the splitter style wheel will be better suited for you.

but like TheShodan said, ship it Bullseye and have them install their billet wheel and rebalance it. This also keeps your warranty with Bullseye intact, especially useful if the turbocharger is new and you run into any problems down the road. If you installed your own billet wheel and then had issues down the road then Bullseye would have no reason to warranty the unit since you've effectively modified it using 3rd party parts and labor, so Bullseye could say the 3rd party parts were the problem (especially if the unit isn't balanced as an assembly afterwards)

 

i can get it balanced locally , a friend of mine has a balancer @ his shop .

would love to go the bullseye route but that's above my budget at this time,
i think i'm going to stick with the standard cast wheel until the $$ is available.

 

That's a good idea. stay with what you have for now. Also, BEP may not sell the wheel independently of their service for quality control reasons. So, if you must use your local source, be aware that now, you're stuck with the knock-off eBay aluminum that may make things WORSE.

 

L[QUOTE

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S300<br/>

 

Up and running ... bw 63mm ett wheel

 

Soooo, which option did you decide to use?

 

Cast wheel from borg warner (ett) Borg Warner S363 Compressor Wheel 173297 - AGP Turbochargers, Inc. Store

 

dAMNNNN

 

What's that supposed to mean

 

That is an inaccurate quote.

 

just impressed by his knowledge