Add auto-up to power window switch of EG hatch & coup
Its not my fault if you broke something while following this "how to".
To add the auto-up function on you LDH master power windows switch.
Thing’s you’ll need
1. JDM(RHD) master power window switch
2. LHD master power window switch
2. E-clip remover (Don’t know what size, I used 2 precision flat screw driver)
3. 2mm drill bit
4. Small needle nose pliers
5. Small cutter knife
6. Small wire cutter
1st remove both master switch from housing, then remove passenger switch **** and the switch that turns on/off the passenger power window.

I wasn’t able to remove the driver side **** of the LHD and RHD master switch.

Lift the rubber boot it will slide up the passenger switch and on/off switch. You’ll see the driver side’s switch held in place by a shaft with an e-clip at one end. Remove the e-clip(be careful not to lose the e-clip). After removing the shaft, lift the driver switch with the rubber boot.



Now you’ll see the timer relay and contact points of driver switch. At this point you can compare the difference between RHD and LHD switches.

in the picture below, the latch and slider from RHD switch were already installed.

On RHD switch, you’ll find 2 plastic latch on the left and right of the contact points. Different slide for the rocker switch. Also there’s a small plastic tab protruding on the both sides of the timer relay.
On LHD switch, you’ll find 1 plastic latch on the right of the contact point, the slide of the rocker switch has a small piece of plastic that blocks the rocker switch to go all the way. The tabs on the timer relay are different, one is small, and the other is bent down ward.
Hard part begins. On the LHD switch drill at least 3 holes with close proximity on the side of the switch. The body itself is kind of porous plastic and easy to drill with bare hands. I manually drilled the body so I won’t hit anything on the other side. Pay attention to the drill as it goes through.
To achieve a rectangular hole, cut the plastic between two drilled holes, again be careful not to hit anything on the other side of the body.

Through the hole you’ll now see a white plastic tab.

You’ll easily notice the difference from the RHD switch. The RHD tab is like a shaft pointing towards the hole you made, while the LHD is bent pointing towards the bottom of the switch. When the switch is powered the tab for the LHD will actually hit the bottom of the switch so the auto-up will not activate.

What I did is I cut the part of the tab that point downward with a small wire cutter. Use a small knife cutter to cut some more plastic tab and shape it to a square shaft. The RHD has a round shaft. The plastic tab is sturdy so you can forcibly cut it. Cut small piece at a time then check if the plastic latch from the RHD switch slides under the tab.
The easy part begins. Just get the 2 plastic latches from the RHD and slide it in the LHD switch.

Using flat precision screw driver, jam it through the small gap at the top and bottom of the slider the pry it out. Do this for both LHD and RHD switch and swap them.




Putting the witch back together is easy. Just watch the tab of on the rocker switch to fit on the latch. The slide back the shaft and replace the e-clip.

To add the auto-up function on you LDH master power windows switch.
Thing’s you’ll need
1. JDM(RHD) master power window switch
2. LHD master power window switch
2. E-clip remover (Don’t know what size, I used 2 precision flat screw driver)
3. 2mm drill bit
4. Small needle nose pliers
5. Small cutter knife
6. Small wire cutter
1st remove both master switch from housing, then remove passenger switch **** and the switch that turns on/off the passenger power window.

I wasn’t able to remove the driver side **** of the LHD and RHD master switch.

Lift the rubber boot it will slide up the passenger switch and on/off switch. You’ll see the driver side’s switch held in place by a shaft with an e-clip at one end. Remove the e-clip(be careful not to lose the e-clip). After removing the shaft, lift the driver switch with the rubber boot.



Now you’ll see the timer relay and contact points of driver switch. At this point you can compare the difference between RHD and LHD switches.

in the picture below, the latch and slider from RHD switch were already installed.

On RHD switch, you’ll find 2 plastic latch on the left and right of the contact points. Different slide for the rocker switch. Also there’s a small plastic tab protruding on the both sides of the timer relay.
On LHD switch, you’ll find 1 plastic latch on the right of the contact point, the slide of the rocker switch has a small piece of plastic that blocks the rocker switch to go all the way. The tabs on the timer relay are different, one is small, and the other is bent down ward.
Hard part begins. On the LHD switch drill at least 3 holes with close proximity on the side of the switch. The body itself is kind of porous plastic and easy to drill with bare hands. I manually drilled the body so I won’t hit anything on the other side. Pay attention to the drill as it goes through.
To achieve a rectangular hole, cut the plastic between two drilled holes, again be careful not to hit anything on the other side of the body.

Through the hole you’ll now see a white plastic tab.

You’ll easily notice the difference from the RHD switch. The RHD tab is like a shaft pointing towards the hole you made, while the LHD is bent pointing towards the bottom of the switch. When the switch is powered the tab for the LHD will actually hit the bottom of the switch so the auto-up will not activate.

What I did is I cut the part of the tab that point downward with a small wire cutter. Use a small knife cutter to cut some more plastic tab and shape it to a square shaft. The RHD has a round shaft. The plastic tab is sturdy so you can forcibly cut it. Cut small piece at a time then check if the plastic latch from the RHD switch slides under the tab.
The easy part begins. Just get the 2 plastic latches from the RHD and slide it in the LHD switch.

Using flat precision screw driver, jam it through the small gap at the top and bottom of the slider the pry it out. Do this for both LHD and RHD switch and swap them.




Putting the witch back together is easy. Just watch the tab of on the rocker switch to fit on the latch. The slide back the shaft and replace the e-clip.

Nice work. Did you consider swapping the tabs from under the timer relay?
This piece:

I know you'd have to solder the timer relay back in place which would be awkward to do, but based on your experience here do you think it might work?
This piece:

I know you'd have to solder the timer relay back in place which would be awkward to do, but based on your experience here do you think it might work?
Sorry Deschlong, i forgot to post this picture

Don't remove timer relay. you can't solder it back. I ripped it from the top and snapped 2 wires and 2 male contacts. It has to be un-soldered underneath, between the control unit and the switch body.
To expose the control unit, there's a screw in the connector, unscrew it the pull the connector up. The cover for the control unit has 2 tabs on the both side. Seems to me the only way to remove the control unit is to un-solder the it on both sides(top and bottom of the PCB)
But If you managed to un-solder the control unit, you can access the soldered contacts of the time relay and swap everything cleanly.
Also if you notice here

there are 2 gold screws, one exposed and one under the control unit. I guess these screws hold the driver side switch block to the whole master switch.
I guess everybody already knows that the RHD and LHD solo passenger switch are the same.

Don't remove timer relay. you can't solder it back. I ripped it from the top and snapped 2 wires and 2 male contacts. It has to be un-soldered underneath, between the control unit and the switch body.
To expose the control unit, there's a screw in the connector, unscrew it the pull the connector up. The cover for the control unit has 2 tabs on the both side. Seems to me the only way to remove the control unit is to un-solder the it on both sides(top and bottom of the PCB)

But If you managed to un-solder the control unit, you can access the soldered contacts of the time relay and swap everything cleanly.
Also if you notice here

there are 2 gold screws, one exposed and one under the control unit. I guess these screws hold the driver side switch block to the whole master switch.
I guess everybody already knows that the RHD and LHD solo passenger switch are the same.
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