There are quite a few threads about this and no follow up answer? I have a 96 Integra LS, stock motor and trans except CAI, header, and exhaust. When I depress the clutch to come to a stop the car dies or idles at about 100 rpm. It does not matter what gear I am in or Neutral, after it dies it starts right back up and idles fine until I press the gas and try to come to a stop again (really annoying in stop and go traffic never fails) Only sometimes it will idle over 1000 rpm after a re-start. If I shift into Neutral after applying the gas it does the same thing. Only happens when the car has warmed up. If I start the car and press the clutch nothing adverse happens regardless if its warm or not. If I start the car weather in Neutral or with the clutch depressed and hit the gas and let off the idle drops to almost nothing and will go back almost to start-up idle (never really sounds right) in about 10-20 seconds and sometimes almost dies. It is throwing a bank two O2 sensor code I did not think that a bad secondary O2 sensor would have any negative side-effects on the operation of the motor? Any experience with this issue or insight on the problem would be great and appreciated!

 

Mine did that when the valves were set too tight. Check valve lash.

 

Yea suddenly that exact issue was happening to me recently then i started hearing this knocking! i checked the valve lash and all the ex valves were tight somehow. So i reset the valve lash and the motor feels allot better and the issue went away. Also check the IACV could be dirty just clean it out with brake cleaner. might help it out also.

 

What are the specs for the lash? and the torque for the nuts? Guess I need to source a manual.

 

Is it when the clutch is depressed, or when you step on the brakes?

 

When the clutch is depressed, after it warms up is when the motor dies and the symptoms start. Parked, if I hit the throttle, the idle Problem will happen anytime if it just ran or sat overnight.

 

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...djustment.html

intake: 0.003"-0.005"
exhaust: 0.006"-0.008"

for B18B

 

Thank you I forgot to add it has been setting for the past 9 months and the guy I bought it off of ran it with 9 month old gas before I got there to look at it. The first two weeks I Daily Drove it did none of this. Just put plugs in it, the old ones looked fine I figured it would help atleast a little but did not. I can't believe I forgot about that.... But if anyone thinks that is the issue what should I do?

 

Don't worry about the fuel unless it causes a problem after a couple fill-ups with fresh fuel.

For troubleshooting problems like this you want to be methodical and to start with tests that are free or cheap (i.e. don't throw money at the problem with a bunch of new parts). I would start with a valve lash adjustment (this is an easy DIY) and check cam timing and compression while you are at it. Also test and clean the IACV and look for vacuum leaks with some carb cleaner or propane gas.

 

Where the new plugs properly gapped?

 

They were all .044 it was doing it before I changed them though.

 

For a update: I cleaned the IACV nothing got any better? Checked the voltage at my TPS I am getting no voltage at CT or WOT? I pushed the probes through the backside of the clip like this guy advised... https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/diy-how-calibrating-voltage-your-tps-sensor-2947986/ read 0 volts. I will be setting the valve lash tomorrow and see if that works.

 

i had a throw out bearing cause the engine to bog down when the clutch is depressed. bad thrust bearings will cause it too.

 

Well I drove it today and at every stoplight it consistently revved from about 1k to 100 rpm back and forth until I started driving again.

 

You either didn't clean your IACV well enough, or you haven't bled your coolant.

 

Make sure the clip is actually touching the wire. Sometimes you don't go deep enough.. lol

 

A update: I adjusted the valve lash and bled the coolant, the car runs so much better. has not died once, but it idles at about 100 rpm consistently cold or warm if driven. from a start if I have not driven it yet it idles about 550 rpm then if it receives throttle at all it will idle very low.

 

Is the tps issue solved. Often multiple things at once combine to cause a bad idle.

 

I have not re-checked it yet. If I was getting 0 volts at the TPS would the car even run?

 

Ok, on my CT position I am getting .46V and at WOT I am getting 4.49V. This seems to be a reasonable reading from what I am finding.

 

Tried cleaning my IACV again... and noticed that no coolant was lost? nothing came out of it at all.

 

is your resivour full or empty? you might have a leak somewhere.

 

I just changed the thermostat and filled it all up. I have no noticeable leaks anywhere.

 

The issue now is If the car is just started it idles perfect after all the advice. But when it warms up It and I come o a stop it idles extremely low.

 

The problem is that the car is not handling the warm idle very well. This could be a mechanical problem with the IACV, a sensor problem (e.g. the ECU is compensating incorrectly for a faulty sensor reading such as the ECT), or a vacuum leak.

I would check all the relevant sensors following the protocols outlined in the Helms manual and look for a vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner or unlit propane with the car running. If there is a leak, the carb cleaner/propane will enter the combustion chamber and alter the idle. Make sure you have the service connector bridged so that the car cannot make electronic idle adjustments. And be careful if you choose to use propane!