Hey guys, just wondering if any of you have a complete pinout for a 00-01 UKDM ITR gauge cluster?

I found this thread which suggests that the UKDM differs from USDM only in having a hazard light in the #12 spot on the 16-pin connector.

However I've also heard that these clusters don't play nice if the gauges and green films are swapped, leading me to believe something else is odd about them (maybe in the speedometer circuitboard?).

This is for a 00-01 UKDM ITR cluster going into a 98 LS with a GS-R swap.

 

i have a 01 ukdm itr cluster in my 99 gsr and it work fine with no problems.

 

plug and played into my 01 plug it up and see if it works first then go from there

 

Do you remember what you did for the swap?

If I repin I will likely lose my maintenance light (who cares), cruise light (bummer), and seatbelt light (also who cares). If I swap green films/indicators I will have to cannibalize my LS cluster and won't be able to sell it off.

 

UPDATE:

I traced the UKDM cluster leads myself and the pinout I linked is INCORRECT! At least for UKDM clusters with the 665K green film. I'll make a separate post about this but the correct pinout is:

B1 - fuel gauge signal
B2 - door ajar indicator
B3 - dead end
B4 - low fuel indicator
B5 - dead end
B6 - speedometer signal
B7 - trunk ajar indicator
B8 - dead end
B9 - main illumination (3 bulbs wired parallel)
B10 - + illumination (goes only to B9)
B11 - + battery indicator (goes only to batt. light and unused socket)
B12 - hazard indicator (other end of circuit at D1)
B13 - left turn indicator
B14 - right turn indicator
B15 - high beam indicator
B16 - hand brake indicator

D1 - hazard indicator (ground or power?)
D2 - immobilizer indicator (other end of ciruit at D5)
D3 - dead ends in empty socket
D4 - + ignition on
D5 - immobilizer indicator (ground or power?)
D6 - ground (all gauges, turn signals, and high beam indicators)
D7 - temperature gauge signal
D8 - dead end
D9 - battery charge signal
D10 - dead end at empty socket
D11 - oil pressure indicator
D12 - check engine indicator
D13 - tachometer signal

As you can see it's kind of a hybrid of the USDM 98/99 and 00/01. The immobilizer logo is where the cruise control light should be, and the maintenance indicator wiring is the same as the 98/99. Meaning it should be plug and play with a 98 Integra. It should also be possible to add the cruise and maintenance lights by swapping that indicator film and adding one light. Getting it to work in a 00/01 Integra would be a little trickier.

I'm not sure how people with 665K green films were ever able to get their clusters to work in non 98/99 Integras without an accurate pinout...

UPDATE 2:

It should be possible to add a maintenance and cruise indicators from a 94-99 Integra. You would need to:

1) swap in maint/cruise icons from a 94-99 Integra
2) add a bulb to the maint. spot
3) repin the maint. input from D2 to D3
4) get switched power to D2 somehow

The downside is the cruise light would be bright because it would not be running through the dimmer circuit on cars with factory cruise systems.

You could also get the hazard light to function as a seatbelt switch by:

1) repinning B8 to B12
2) getting switched power to D1 OR bridging the upper indicator socket in the maint/cruise/immobilizer set (if D2 is seeing switched power)

 

hi mate, I'm new here and you have no idea how much i've been looking for a good pinout list for a ukdm dc2 cluster. I am wiring one in my crx Vt (european version of the siR) and I was finding all sorts of different pinouts (jdm/gsr etc) and was quite confusing .. This really helps

Do you know how can we sort out the B12/D1 dilemma as to which is ground and which is supply? or does that make no difference? I've tried tracing them on the printed circuit but they both just lead to the same hazard bulb..

Also how would I need to wire B9 since I wont have the dimmer option? should I just ignore this wire that splits into 3?

Thanks

 

I can't believe after 15 years the internet still doesn't have a UKDM/EDM gauge pinout. I even searched using google.co.uk and got nothing!

For your question: I think for the indicator itself the polarity doesn't make a difference. Since there is no circuitry I think you could pin the supply to either B12 or D1 and it would be just fine. Of course, the hazard controller needs to have the correct polarity, wherever it is in the car, but I would be surprised if it matters what way current flows through the cluster since all it is doing is lighting up an incandescent bulb. I think it would be the same for D2/D5.

Note that the immobilizer on USDM 00/01 has more complex circuitry in the cluster and that immobilizer circuit does need to be connected "correctly."

The B9/B10 circuit is also a pretty simple circuit that just runs power to three bulbs wired in parallel. The dimmer is located elsewhere in the car and controls the voltage to these bulbs. Judging by the way that link is written, I'm guessing the dimmer is on the neg. side of the cluster. Hence the fused power is coming into B10. So get your Fuse-19 power into B10 and send B9 to ground if you don't have a dimmer.

 

well it does now thanks to you i cant believe i found it the day you posted it hah . i imagined that the hazard bulb doesn't really make a difference which way you connected it but thought id ask anyway. Everything else is already wired so i shouldn't have any problems with the hazard controller itself. D2/D5 are immobiliser lights which i won't be running of course since i dont have it.

So i could just put the wire that splits into 3 to ground and i'll always have full brightness in my illumination?

just for the sake of it. this is what it looks like fitted into my crx

 

Nice! What engine do you have in there? The retrofit looks great. I LOVE my new gauges. I wasn't actually sure I would like the yellow needles but they are easier to read quickly than red. And amber/yellow looks amazing at night.

You should be fine running the illiumination circuit to ground. You'll have full brightness but with oem bulbs I always crank mine anyways!

 

i am swapping in a b18c4 (european version of the gsr) with some pr3 pistons and a type r head with cams. the old b16a spun a bearing and i didnt bother fixing it. cant wait till its back on the road again