Okay, I've been searching for a solution to my problem for the last 2 days but I can't seem to find out what is wrong. I bought a 2000 civic ex about 8 months ago, barely drove it home because when I went to give it gas while in gear it struggled to accelerate. After about a month of trying to fix that as well as a high idle up to 4k I said to hell with this weird Frankenstein engine. My boy crashed his 98 lx 4 door and sold me his entire d16y7 for 100; what a friend huh? I just recently finished putting the engine in as I dont have a garage and didn't plan to work in the snow.

Now what I've done to this engine is this. I switched out the clutch plate from the Frankenstein to the y7, I also reused the y8 dizzy from the Frank. I went to the junkyard and grabbed a y8 intake manifold which was really weird cause it had a sort of v looking bracket opposed to the straight one I'm familiar with and the iacv had to be plugged in before bolted in because there isnt clearance; weird . I did reuse the y7 injectors because I read that the y8 wil make it run too lean. I got an obd2b p2e ecu from the junkyard yes it's manual. There are 5 plugs unplugged rn. the 2 for vtec obviously. I don't have 02 sensors yet, working on that and the knock sensor which the y7 does not have or so I read.

My car will not start though. I've checked grounds (the one near the front left headlight, the one to the thermo, the one that goes from the chassis to the bracket over the tranny and the alternator) Am I missing one? I don't think AC ground is serious because I don't even have the belt on. I checked spark I think its a crisp color but I was inside the car so a little unsure. Fuel primes and goes through injectors because I can smell gas. Timing was never messed with. My boy thinks I need and obd2a ecu, idk why that would be necessary if I have non v p2e already. Please help me, I'm sick of driving automatic already.

 

man what a list of parts. your car is 98 so go with obd2a ecu. 96-98 obd2a 99-00 obd2b

 

No, my car is a 2000 ex coupe

 

whoops. make sure you plugged everything in correctly. then go from there. if your confident you have the right ecu with what is supposed to go with the motor and wiring harness it should have fired up. get a service manual which can be had for free and start going over everything.

and what does you being sick of driving automatic have to do with this?

 

Driving automatic while my car is not drivable. I'm saying I just want to get to my car....

Technically its the wrong ecu for the harness AND the motor I think

Car=2000 EX EJ8
Harness=EX OBD2B
Engine=Non-Vtec OBD2A
ECU=Non-Vtec OBD2B

 

get the obd2a harness with obd2a ecu to run with your obd2a motor. then you should be good.
you live around a pullapart or anything?

 

Somewhat, it's a little drives away. Is that the only way to run it? would it work if I ran a ecu jumper and put an obd2a ecu?

 

if you got a obd conversion harness you should be good. I see they are cheap on ebay. you'll just have to wait for shipping unless you can get it faster.

 

Okay I'm gonna try that then and come back

 

I just bought a rywire jumper harness, expressed it for 160.

 

hopefully it solves your issues.

 

Waste, if you did get a p2e obd2b and wired everything in than you need to check the starter wire. You might not have plugged it in correctly. Also check your clutch to see if the plastic thingie broke off, that can keep you from starting the car as well. Another thing is did you put the distributor in correctly.

 

he said it cranks but no start, if he can crank it to check and verify spark.

 

Okay, good news and bad news. Now the harness and obd2a p2e have made the car start. That's the good news. The bad news is that if I don't leave my foot on the accelerator a little bit, the car will die. At about 2500rpm the rpms will fluctuate before going passed it. But it does indeed pass 2500. I got a code that reads racv failure, I forget the error code number

 

iacv? idle air control valve? take it off and clean it real well and report back.

 

I don't see how you got an obd2a ecu and engine harness to work on a 2000 honda civic, you now have two A plugs.

 

his car wire harness is same obd type as his vehicle. obd2b.

 

P2E can only operate a 3 wire IACV. If you didn't reuse the Y7 throttle body with IACV and run the third wire the manual EX harness doesn''t have...it won't idle and will throw a code.

 

How do I splice my current ex harnesses iacv to match the 3 wire socket. I'll cut it off at the junk

 

check this out, the info you need is at the bottom of the page.
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...rmation-73241/

 

That link is showing how to go 3 wire to 2 wire, OP needs to go 2 wire to 3 wire.

It can be used as long as you understand you need to do the oposite.

Your 2 wire plug has a yel/blk and blk/blu wire. The 3 wire plug also has yel/blk, blk/blu and the third wire is orange.

Match the two wires with the same colors of each plug. The orange wire you'll have to extend in to the ecu and goes to ecu plug A13. At the ecu the blk/blu wire needs to be moved from A12 to A14 for the 3 wire to work.

 

I did the iacv fix. Thank you guys so much. I can't seem to get it to idle at 700 rather it stays at 1500ish. I tried playing with ignition timing and the idle screw. But nothing I do will get it to 700... and here is a new monkey wrench in the plan. Head gasket is blown. Oil cap has creamy stuff in it and the radiator shoots coolant. I guess a 100 dollar motor will pay for itself in repairs. But I think it's because my radiator fan isn't working. Is there difference in the ecu plugs that might cause that?