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Torque steer = broken torque mount?

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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 08:28 AM
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vtecnique69's Avatar
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Default Torque steer = broken torque mount?

I am currently having an issue with torque steer. I have a feeling it might be a ball joint or even something in the steering system (because potholes), but how bad would it be if a torque mount was broken?

its very noticeable at speeds above 30 mph, with the car veering left on acceleration and right on deceleration.

I put my summer wheels on (which have stock tire size, brand new tires as well) and it became more pronounced, making me have to correct it consistently.

While putting my wheels on, nothing seemed to have play but I guess i will have to check it all again.

Anyone else have an issue like this?

Car is an 08 Si w/ 65000 miles.
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 09:26 AM
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Default Re: Torque steer = broken torque mount?

have you got it check to see if the alignment isn't off?
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 10:30 AM
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Default Re: Torque steer = broken torque mount?

Doing that on Wed. - 3 year alignment plan ftw!

Other than that, I was reading on other forums that the causes can range from ball joints and tie rods, to control arms being bent, to engine mounts, and even as far as the lsd needing repairs.

Just trying to gauge the problem based on how common it is. Apparently lots of people on all different forums have the same issue without a pinpointed (most common) cause. Lots of the threads were left open without resolution and the backyard mechanics chime in with their $0.02, throwing guesses around like Uno cards
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 01:40 PM
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Default Re: Torque steer = broken torque mount?

Originally Posted by vtecnique69
Doing that on Wed. - 3 year alignment plan ftw!

Other than that, I was reading on other forums that the causes can range from ball joints and tie rods, to control arms being bent, to engine mounts, and even as far as the lsd needing repairs.

Just trying to gauge the problem based on how common it is. Apparently lots of people on all different forums have the same issue without a pinpointed (most common) cause. Lots of the threads were left open without resolution and the backyard mechanics chime in with their $0.02, throwing guesses around like Uno cards
LCA bushings are weak - have the dealership take a look at your engine mounts and LCA bushings and see if they are torn/failed

When mine failed the second time I went with Boomba mounts/Full Race traction ***** - car feels 100x better

My Mounts were replaced under warranty - if you still have warranty left and they find the issue they should help you out
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 02:28 PM
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Default Re: Torque steer = broken torque mount?

NO warranty. Already have Boomba mounts.

I'm not terribly concerned about replacing a ball joint, tie rod, or bushing. I just dont want to spend hundreds for a new lca
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 07:04 PM
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Default Re: Torque steer = broken torque mount?

let us know how the car feels after the wheel alignment as that will clear up a lot of the troubleshooting for us!
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 07:54 PM
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Default Re: Torque steer = broken torque mount?

Well last minute I took it to honda, and they put it in the air and did an inspection, but stopped there due to the mods. They said everything looked good and nothing was bent. Refused to do the alignment. Whatever doe, I still have my alignment package at just tires.

Ill update tomorrow night after the alignment.
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 10:02 AM
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Default Re: Torque steer = broken torque mount?

what a joke when they refuse to do an alignment lol... like how much harder is it to really do?
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 10:16 AM
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Default Re: Torque steer = broken torque mount?

Worst torque steer I ever experienced was due to SHOT inner tie rods. I could literally get on the gas to merge right and let off to merge left.

If it's tie rods it would present as a TON of play in the steering wheel with no steering input as well.
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 04:26 PM
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Default Re: Torque steer = broken torque mount?

That's Honda dealers for you. Start modifying and they want nothing to do with you. I was basically as close as I could come to try and get them to take my money without seeming desperate.

I was assuming it might be tie rods, but even the slightest input on the wheel made the car turn But...

...the verdict is...

...toe. Here are the specs before/after:

FL: +.19/-.03
FR: -.08/0.0
RL: +.21/+.09
RR: +.23/+.09

The car doesn't feel as tight as it used to, but it tracks straight as an arrow. BUT (because there's always more BUTS)...

the steering wheel is now cocked to the left. The tech must not have straightened out the wheel after rolling it on the rack. So now I have to go back and have the alignment done over again.

Next project this year after the tuning is complete is an Energy Suspension master bushing kit. Actually, just the lower control arm portion. Hopefully that will eliminate the little bit of slop that's left in the suspension.
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