sensors inside distributor
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
i asked a question in tech section which led me to this question
the magnetic pickups inside the dizzy supposed to be alligned in relation to eachother and in relation to the dizzy case..
since they are sensors is it possible to calibrate them using neptune or s300?
or maybe it could be a feature that can be added. since aftermarked distributors are not exactly on point most of the time
something like a wav form graph of all 3 sensors when they spike so it can be seen the exact timing of them in relation to eachother and timing in general
the magnetic pickups inside the dizzy supposed to be alligned in relation to eachother and in relation to the dizzy case..
since they are sensors is it possible to calibrate them using neptune or s300?
or maybe it could be a feature that can be added. since aftermarked distributors are not exactly on point most of the time
something like a wav form graph of all 3 sensors when they spike so it can be seen the exact timing of them in relation to eachother and timing in general
They are not sensors they are pick-ups. You have a reluctor ring and for lack of a better term right now a snail. There is no way to calibrate them other than clocking the "snail" in relation to the input shaft. It is a pretty basic setup really, not sure where you came up with your idea.
They are VR (megnetic) sensors and really, like already said, they are pretty basic. Only real way to calibrate, or alter them, is by where you have the signal set to trigger. Ether on the rising edge or falling edge of the tooth. There are different wheel configurations, Single wheel, dual wheel, single with missing tooth, dual with missing tooth... 1, 2, 4 32 tooth wheels, etc etc. Get into MegaSquirt, Motec or Haltech type stand alone engine management systems and you can get into fine tuning these VR sensor setups. Not really much you are going to gain over the stock setup.
The two wheel, crank and cam sensor setup is nice for a COP conversion.
The two wheel, crank and cam sensor setup is nice for a COP conversion.
Last edited by GhostAccord; Feb 21, 2014 at 09:26 PM.
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
the aftermarket distributors are really offset.
i had the dizzy from distributor king on my setup at first and it was maxed out on rotation
i couldnt even adjust intake cam on the dyno.
switched to oem dizzy and it was dead center like most of them.
besides the internals being offset how else can it be explained?
or is it the casting thats different onaftermarket dizzy?
i had the dizzy from distributor king on my setup at first and it was maxed out on rotation
i couldnt even adjust intake cam on the dyno.
switched to oem dizzy and it was dead center like most of them.
besides the internals being offset how else can it be explained?
or is it the casting thats different onaftermarket dizzy?
OK I see what you are saying now. It is possible that a reman distributor could have a magnet out of alignment, they are just pressed onto the shaft. If the actual magnets and pickups were out of alignment with the physical timing of the engine. You would have to physically change it so that they were lined up. If you couldn't adjust them physically then your distributor sensors would be out of time with the engine. In turn, all of the ECU output signals (fuel injection & ignition) that rely on those signals would be wrong. I don't think there is any way you can delay/offset the TDC, CKP or CYP trigger signals with Neptune or SManager.
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
well what i mean is the oem dizzy the pickups are set with barely any play up or down
aftermarket pickups have long screw holes and can be adjusted few degrees up or down for every sensor
so they are adjustable somewhat. i was just thinking while the engine is idling it would be possible to calibrate them better if i had some kind of graph of the pulses of all 3 sensors in relation to eachother
im thinking i can probably do it on a bench with voltmeter or eyeball it havent tried that yet
aftermarket pickups have long screw holes and can be adjusted few degrees up or down for every sensor
so they are adjustable somewhat. i was just thinking while the engine is idling it would be possible to calibrate them better if i had some kind of graph of the pulses of all 3 sensors in relation to eachother
im thinking i can probably do it on a bench with voltmeter or eyeball it havent tried that yet
if your having issues with remaned dizzys, just use your oem case and use the sensors from another known oem good dizzy. my gsr dizzy has y7 sensors inside it and it works perfectly fine and timing is spot on.
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get rid of the remanded dizzy. i pulled one apart last nite that is about 2weeks old and it crapped out, dont know what went bad on it but when i pulled it apart there was a thin metal clip laying inside that wasnt suppose to be in there and one of the sensors broke in half in my hands. im gonna use this remanded only for the case and the nice new shiny screws and maybe the shaft.
Those sensors rarely fail in the OE distributors. I would just get a hold of any old oe distributor, replace the bearing and seal and substitute a known good coil and ignitor (do the aftermarket ones even come with these?) and call it a day.
I've never looked inside one of the aftermarket ones, can you post a pic of the adjusters you are talking about?
If possible, you could certainly line it up easily with a scope, or maybe with two or three DVOMs (one for each sensor). Probably not gonna happen by eye though, the ecu is pretty picky about how the edges line up.
well what i mean is the oem dizzy the pickups are set with barely any play up or down
aftermarket pickups have long screw holes and can be adjusted few degrees up or down for every sensor
so they are adjustable somewhat. i was just thinking while the engine is idling it would be possible to calibrate them better if i had some kind of graph of the pulses of all 3 sensors in relation to eachother
im thinking i can probably do it on a bench with voltmeter or eyeball it havent tried that yet
aftermarket pickups have long screw holes and can be adjusted few degrees up or down for every sensor
so they are adjustable somewhat. i was just thinking while the engine is idling it would be possible to calibrate them better if i had some kind of graph of the pulses of all 3 sensors in relation to eachother
im thinking i can probably do it on a bench with voltmeter or eyeball it havent tried that yet
If possible, you could certainly line it up easily with a scope, or maybe with two or three DVOMs (one for each sensor). Probably not gonna happen by eye though, the ecu is pretty picky about how the edges line up.
I thought this would be an appropriate place for this question.
Can I use an LS distributor shaft inside a GSR distributor? Are the tooth pickups for cyp/tdc/ckp all on the same positions for all b series distributor shafts?
I know I can use any d or b series VR sensors, but i have no clue about the shafts.
Can I use an LS distributor shaft inside a GSR distributor? Are the tooth pickups for cyp/tdc/ckp all on the same positions for all b series distributor shafts?
I know I can use any d or b series VR sensors, but i have no clue about the shafts.
What On-Board Dianostic levels are the distributor internals from?
To answer one question: No, You can't mix and match OBD-0 with OBD-1 or OBD-2. Reluctor rings are different.
To answer one question: No, You can't mix and match OBD-0 with OBD-1 or OBD-2. Reluctor rings are different.
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You would need a 3 channel oscilloscope to align the sensors, what no one seems to know for sure is if the sensors are supposed to align or stagger.
OBD-1 and OBD-2 internals are the same, Pre-OBD have the same sensors with a different number of teeth on the Crank Position Sensor
OBD-1 and OBD-2 internals are the same, Pre-OBD have the same sensors with a different number of teeth on the Crank Position Sensor

Google "Powering an obd1 ecu on the bench" and you'll come up with the engine sim thread on pgmfi.
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
so is it possible to make them available (visible) in Neptune hondata?
say if someone would calibrate them on a stock dizzy for reference in relation to eachother and others can use it to check theirs to make sure they are in same relation
I mean if the ignition was on and I turned the engine by hand it would register all of them no?
say if someone would calibrate them on a stock dizzy for reference in relation to eachother and others can use it to check theirs to make sure they are in same relation
I mean if the ignition was on and I turned the engine by hand it would register all of them no?
It's all about the edges. If you can get the zero crossings to line up like the attached picture, the ecu will be happy. You can even get it to buy square waves as long as everything is reasonably well phased.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...41900462_n.jpg
It seems to be a little less picky about the CYL but afaik it only really uses that for syncing at startup. I the realm of signal processing, it's pretty forgiving overall... hence why the original system is so freaking reliable.
As far as viewing it in NepTune, no... it doesn't have that capability and never even sees that data directly. That's all processed by the original parts of the ecu. You can hook up a scope to the wires and see the signal on a running engine or while turning the distributor, preferably at a steady speed, on the bench.
I'd probably just go get another OE distributor before I went chasing down a scope and going through all the learning required (okay, it's really not that much) to try and set up an aftermarket unit properly. Where did it come from?
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g1...41900462_n.jpg
It seems to be a little less picky about the CYL but afaik it only really uses that for syncing at startup. I the realm of signal processing, it's pretty forgiving overall... hence why the original system is so freaking reliable.
As far as viewing it in NepTune, no... it doesn't have that capability and never even sees that data directly. That's all processed by the original parts of the ecu. You can hook up a scope to the wires and see the signal on a running engine or while turning the distributor, preferably at a steady speed, on the bench.
I'd probably just go get another OE distributor before I went chasing down a scope and going through all the learning required (okay, it's really not that much) to try and set up an aftermarket unit properly. Where did it come from?
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
well I do it with a voltmeter and a degree wheel cant I?
those magnetic pickups will show closed circuit when near the gear right?
I could have a calibration from the oem dizzy that hasn't been touched and then use it to adjust all the other ones
those magnetic pickups will show closed circuit when near the gear right?
I could have a calibration from the oem dizzy that hasn't been touched and then use it to adjust all the other ones
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