So the front of my car is bent.

Let me elaborate. The previous owner didn't know how to stay out of others' rears, so his nose was bent inwards. Now it's mine, and my bent front end is a serious eyesore. Dunno if it matters, but it's a 99 Civic Sedan LX, stock motor until I find a job which doesn't require me to use my car...

Passenger front:


Driver front: (Just above the washer fluid res, it's bent the same as the other side)


Hood latch:


Whole front upper: (Also bent inwards a bit)


Hood:


Passenger Fender to Hood gap: (Too big for me)


Driver fender to hood gap: (fine with this side horizontally, but it's too high.)


Such picture. Much thorough. Wow.

Realtalk though, these gaps bug me, and while I know basic dent repair, I don't know the first thing on how to repair frame damage beside a chain, a tree, and hopes and dreams.

I plan on replacing the hood, bumper, and grille. I'm waiting on the fenders, until I can get SiR fenders.

Any help would be appreciated.

Have a super day.

 

Oh my goodness these pictures are big. Is there a picture size limit? And how would I resize them if so?

 

Well, you pretty much have 2 options depending on your budget. The first and most expensive is take it to a body shop, have them take off the radiator support, fix any frame damage ( which I doubt) and reweld in a new radiator support making your front end straight again.

Or you can go buy a come along, hook it to a tree and then semi fix it that way. It may help, I have seen people do it before and have good turn out, and I have seen it be worse.

The at the end of the day its if you want it fixed right or not. Im **** so I want it perfect.

Food for thought, I had a jam ITR conversion done at a shop, and they charged me 800 to remove and reinstall the radi supports, and install the front end and paint the support.

 

I was thinking I'd go buy a radiator support from the local junkyard, just cut off more than I need. I want it to at least look perfect on the outside. I'd like all the panels to align.

I also looked at the rules, after posting. Oh jeez, I posted in the wrong place...

EDIT: My budget... is questionable. I'd be willing to save up if it means a better result, but if there's a cheaper way for the same outcome, I'd rather take that and save for other parts.

 

Yeah, if you took all the parts to a body shop you will be in about a grand in labor if they help you out. All you can do is go talk to one and ask.

 

Is that with or without panel alignment?

 

I took the whole front clip on a pallet to the shop and dropped my car off. They removed the whole front end and installed all the new stuff correctly. re ran the hood latch cable. and painted the new support and it was just under 1000 bucks. Which was all labor. But it lined up perfectly.

 

Dude that's totes rad. I'd probably take everything off the front before I sent it in, and I wouldn't need them to paint it or put anything back on, as I hope to do a mild bay shave and repaint the whole car soon.

Do you think I'd be able to do it myself if I take all the right measurements? Sorry for all the questions. This'll probably be the last one!

 

Honestly if you have to ask then probably not. its bent metal, its never going to be right again.

 

Lol alright, that's fair to say I suppose. Time to buy a cordless grinder!

Thanks for the help by the way.

 

Have it professionnaly unbent and unding. Minor work to my eyes. Also not all body panels looks like they have to be replaced. You might want to try to remove them and fit them back on to encourage yourself. Minor tools and work required. Bump.


"It"ll buff out", like we say in the buisness.

 

The fenders are probably good, but the bumper has holes in it, where I put "zip Tie stitches" I guess is what they are... The hood is actually bent in the middle, all the way across the tiniest bit, but it throws everything out of wack.

 

Taking the fenders off will tell you a lot. When you remove them you will know if the apron under them is bent at all. If you see any part, normally right behind where the radiator support is mounted, that looks creased you will be in for some work. The hood won't line up until the radiator support is removed.

Is the hood hard to close or real tight when closing?

 

Darn, okay... I'll have to probably take a look at it to see what you mean about aprons.

And the good closes normally. I think it got bent along with the rad support when he hit whoever he did.

 

Ok first oem is within 3mm, in the shop I can get it under 2mm so my panals will be straighter then it was oem, so to say "never be right again" is false. You can do most the work at home in your driveway. Even measure and do some pulling with a come along, is it right no but possible yes.

 

Not sure if you've fixed yet or not, there is no reason at all to remove and replace that rad cradle judging by the pics you've posted. I'd suggest take it to a couple body shops to get a quote to just pull the upper rad cradle, probably be very reasonable if you bring car there with panels removed. That's easy money for a shop and shouldn't cost you to much

 

Just because the upper rad support isnt bent crazy dosent mean the frame rails sre not bent.

 

You don't even need your core support welded in.

For those of us who pull motors a ton (and track cars), we drill out the spot welds, and then use big bolts to mount it back together.

Makes putting motors back in a breeze as well.

 

Yea I kinda noticed the fenders are a little far apart from the sides of the hood...


Wow, I never really thought of that... Seems like a good idea, but does everything still line up right and all that?

 

Just take your time. It's the same thing they would have to do when welding on a new one. Once the old support comes off, it should be pretty obvious how/where the new connects.

People talk about additional flexing since it's not welded. When you look at most of the engine bay and body, most of it is lightly seam welded and then filled with seam sealer. If you want to talk about rigidity, fix that first. Big 17MM bolts will hold it on just fine.

 

Seems legit... I think I'll go this route then. Any tips on bolt steel strength? Does it matter?