I have a 95 civic with a d15b7 I am wondering where should I put the seafoam? Like in the gas? In the oil? Or in vacuum lines? But what vacuum lines should I put it in?

 

Google it. Some people swear by it, some people have destroyed their cars with it.

 

Gas tank and IM are probably OK. I'm skeptical about putting this in the crankcase.

 

Put a third in the oil, a third in the gas tank, and run a third through your brake booster line. I'm not gonna outline all the steps for you, but I will link you to a highly informational video that I used.
You will need a funnel that will fit in your brake booster line.

Obviously, this is a Celica, but the process is exactly the same. I didn't use his clear plastic bottle crap, i just guessed what was a third of the bottle, but you can still do it.

link:

 

Also, he says you need a vacuum line. You don't because you just need to unhook the brake booster and use that. The 2zz-gte engine is a little different. The way he does it is have the engine suck the seafoam out of the bottle. The way i did it was put a funnel in the booster line and poured it in slowly. Either method will work, but my method is much easier.

 

His car was really clean, so it made hardly any smoke. When i did my civic last year i literally smoked up an entire neighborhood. It was sweet.

 

Also, once you do run it through the combustion chambers (through the brake booster) you will probably need to replace your spark plugs. It's known to foul the spark plugs.

I don't know about adding it to the oil. I prefer Forte Prelube for that aspect shortly before oil changes.

 

if u do run it threw oil make sure to change it shortly after i have used seafoam on many cars and bikes works good just make sure to change oil and plugs after like tomcat said and do it some were your away from neighbors cause its gonna smoke alot

 

Well I'll probably buy it in a month or so because I just did a tune up and I still have probably 2000 miles left on the oil so.

 

Thanks for all the info though

 

Just to make you aware of a problem you may face when putting it through the vacuum line...I used to swear by seafoam until I used it on my newest car, my 1999 Civic DX. I am not sure if the fact that the catalytic converter is integrated into the manifold makes a difference, but it burned out my cat. Literally had driven the car 300 miles, no CEL. Ran Seafoam through it, using the 1/3 x 1/3 x 1/3 method described above, and then bam! A couple of CELs for catalytic converter.

 

Did you take your cat off or have a shop do it?

If you did it, I was wondering if you looked through it to see it was clogged or melted. If you had a shop change it out then I guess the question is kinda pointless.

Too bad it's not as easy to do the old steam clean method of pouring a coke bottle of water through the carburetor with high rpm. Chemical free steam clean of the combustion chambers back in the day. A lot harder to do the same thing with fuel injection without risking hydro locking the motor.

 

My engine in my car has probably over 250,000 miles, but always been maintained. Starts up fine no problems I just need to adjust my valves it'll ting a little until oil gets to the top then stop.
But that's besides the point.
Seafoam won't mess my engine up will it? I don't think its ever been ran thru this engine.

 

No. If you wanted to be EXTRA EXTRA safe, you could detach the catalytic converter and run open header, and remove the o2 sensor from the header. That would pretty much eliminate the most common problems with seafoaming (but those problems seldom happen as it is).

 

In my experience with seafoam... Not a good idea... I did only the vacuum brake booster line... My car was hesitating and had low idle... Maybe needed to run a driving cycle after sitting 2 years with a dead battery to relearn.. Ran ok except for the hesitation/low idle. NO CEL.

After seafoam and spirited driving to blow it out... Rod knock next morning.

 

your car sat TWO YEARS. Maybe the lack of oil on your rods caused the rod knock?

 

I changed the oil and filter. It had 10w 30 in it... I did 5w 30 like 5 months before the idle issue. NO CEL... But I did wash my engine like 2 months prior to the idle problem... But the stuttering low idle happened mostly on cold starts.

Maybe I wet the dizzy and never checked because I covered it (maybe not good enough) which cause both idle/hesitation (floored the gas and the rpm doesn't go pass 2 k) then 2 seconds after it kicks off and gears changes out very nicely. As I let off the gas rpms went bogging down to 0 and hesitation again. Plugs were in good shape NGK.

The rod knock came like 8 months after that oil change & the day after vacuum line (1/3)seafoam.

 

I replaced it myself, but didn't even look in it when I did. :facepalm:

 

Hell yea. Did this to my 71 mustang and scared the crap outta my neighbors! They thought I was nutz pouring water into a motor.

 

I don't know if I want to do the seafoam. There is nothing wrong with my engine runs perfect, no cel anything. & I don't want anything to happen like others are saying.

 

You can still do the fuel and oil treatments if you feel nervous about the vacuum line treatment. I've done the fuel treatment several times and the oil treatment a couple times and have had no issues. It helps clean out old injectors. But the vacuum treatment will give you the best results.