i am installing skunk2 cams and buddy club cam gears back into my b16a2 head they were already in the motor but i had new valves put in.

when i install the camshaft and try to position them at tdc they dont wanna sit flush in their places is that common i can slip them under the timing belt and install them that way but they dont wanna sit completely flush.
so what im asking is this normal.

 

they will sit flush once tension is applied to them it takes a bit of playing around with.

 

Sometimes they do wanna move around and not sit at tdc for you.
That is normal.
Sometimes I have some hold the cams still at tdc with a socket on each can I slide the belt on

 

This worked pretty well for me.
Socket, screw driver, small pipe, etc.

 

Here is a link of a video of someone installing them let me know what you guys think.
He starts installing first cam at 0:55 seconds



That's the way I got them in

 

lol what do brakes have to do with cam gears

 

LOL idk why it linked that i didnt even watch that hahaha my bad here it isVV

 

bump

 

make it simple install the camshaft, torque to spec in sequence, then adjust the cam to tdc. simple as that!

 

^^like frost_white say, install the cams and torque them. After that align them to TDC and put the belt.

 

i cant get the cam caps to sit flush when i do it the way in the video
SO after i torque cams down with rails and caps i can turn each camshaft by the cam gear to tdc and slip belt on from there?? then slip belt on? i didnt think that would work..
do i keep all pistons in the middle of each stroke to not bend any valves? adjust the cams then crank it back to 1 tick on the crank pully and slip belt on?

also what are the 3 ticks a little bit farther down the crank pully should i be using those? im using the one alone.

 

you're not going to bend valves turning the engine by hand. set the block to TDC then do as the video says what I do is install one at tdc (intake first) then do the other making little adjustments as I go it does take a few try's. yes the alone white one is the one you want or more simply drop a 3/8 12'' extension down the #1 spark plug well then turn it by hand to it's highest point.

 

ok i did that everything went well cams caps and rails torqued down to spec and flush to head. cams lubed up ect.

now ive ran into ANOTHER problem... i cant get tention on my timing belt.i put it on its tight on exhaust side but loose on intake side and doesnt tention correctly when i tighten tentioner. idk what im doing wrong. could it have possibly skipped below by the crank
i crnak engine over by hand everything stays put but it gets real loose then tight again then real loose then tight again

 

what i usually do is use a racket and turn the exhaust cam clock wise untill it tighten a bit (not to much or else the crank will turn and have a chance the timing belt will jump a few teeth, the same goes for the intake side so all the slack will be on the tensioner, i then use a cloth hanger that i bend a small hook on the tip of it to pull the tensioner from the little hole that the spring hook up too upward, then i tighten the tensioner up (remember not to pull to hard because you do want the timing belt to have a small slack in it, if you chose to do it this way) pulling on it to tight will make it like a rubberband ready to snap once more pressure is upon it.

 

i had to pull up on the gold hook thats above the tentioner attached to a spring and tightehten the 14mm adjust bolt while i held it up is that correct?

 

I always have held the tensioner tight when I'm re-torqueing the bolt works every time for me. if you got it on and tight good.