NepTune RTP Knock Board
Hi Guys,
Some tech info please.
I bought, amongst other things, a NepTune OBD1 ECU a while back.
It was meant to be used for my boosted JDM B18C GSR swap into a 1999 Civic sedan (aka Ballade in South Africa), that was originally an OBD2B b16a.
I purchased the following:
-Neptune RTP in OBD1 ecu.
-PWM boost components installed
-4 Bar plug & play map sensor
-OBD conversion harness from OBD1 to OBD2B
-PWM Boost solenoid & bracket
-ID 1000cc High Imp. Injectors
-Tunerview RD1
-Innovate Wideband
Subsequent to receiving my goods, I put my build on hold for quite a while, but recently acquired a JDM 98 Spec Integra TypeR, 1998 model.
I have decided to sell the Civic, and run the Integra normally aspirated for a while, until such time as I'm ready to boost. I MAY still utilise the GSR, rather than the ITR motor, at the stage of going to boost.
I know the following:
-I can use the Neptune RTP in the Integra, even with the boost components installed.
-I don't need to use the 4Bar plug & play map sensor.
-My 98 ITR is an OBD2A ecu, so I will need to get the appropriate conversion harness.
-I obviously won't need the Boost solenoid.
-I will install the Tunerview & Innovate irrespective.
Questions:
-The biggest cause of concern to me is that my Neptune ECU isn't the OBD1 GSR unit with the knock board. Is this a cause for concern, & does this mean I can no longer use my knock sensor?
-Will it be possible, as it may be a cheaper alternative, to just swap out the entire OBD2A harness in the ITR for an OBD2B, or OBD1 harness?
-Can I run the 1000cc ID injectors in my normally aspirated setup?
Thanks. Responses will be enormously appreciated.
Some tech info please.
I bought, amongst other things, a NepTune OBD1 ECU a while back.
It was meant to be used for my boosted JDM B18C GSR swap into a 1999 Civic sedan (aka Ballade in South Africa), that was originally an OBD2B b16a.
I purchased the following:
-Neptune RTP in OBD1 ecu.
-PWM boost components installed
-4 Bar plug & play map sensor
-OBD conversion harness from OBD1 to OBD2B
-PWM Boost solenoid & bracket
-ID 1000cc High Imp. Injectors
-Tunerview RD1
-Innovate Wideband
Subsequent to receiving my goods, I put my build on hold for quite a while, but recently acquired a JDM 98 Spec Integra TypeR, 1998 model.
I have decided to sell the Civic, and run the Integra normally aspirated for a while, until such time as I'm ready to boost. I MAY still utilise the GSR, rather than the ITR motor, at the stage of going to boost.
I know the following:
-I can use the Neptune RTP in the Integra, even with the boost components installed.
-I don't need to use the 4Bar plug & play map sensor.
-My 98 ITR is an OBD2A ecu, so I will need to get the appropriate conversion harness.
-I obviously won't need the Boost solenoid.
-I will install the Tunerview & Innovate irrespective.
Questions:
-The biggest cause of concern to me is that my Neptune ECU isn't the OBD1 GSR unit with the knock board. Is this a cause for concern, & does this mean I can no longer use my knock sensor?
-Will it be possible, as it may be a cheaper alternative, to just swap out the entire OBD2A harness in the ITR for an OBD2B, or OBD1 harness?
-Can I run the 1000cc ID injectors in my normally aspirated setup?
Thanks. Responses will be enormously appreciated.
1.) No your knock sensor will be idle but you can disable it in the software. The stock knock system is so ineffective that its not much of a loss.
2.) If the motor is stock or just minor bolt ons then yes you can run it with a stock Ecu and sell the Neptune system.
3.) Yes of course. Isn't ever turbo motor mostly driving around naturally aspirated most of the time? Big waste of money though.
2.) If the motor is stock or just minor bolt ons then yes you can run it with a stock Ecu and sell the Neptune system.
3.) Yes of course. Isn't ever turbo motor mostly driving around naturally aspirated most of the time? Big waste of money though.
1.) No your knock sensor will be idle but you can disable it in the software. The stock knock system is so ineffective that its not much of a loss.
2.) If the motor is stock or just minor bolt ons then yes you can run it with a stock Ecu and sell the Neptune system.
3.) Yes of course. Isn't ever turbo motor mostly driving around naturally aspirated most of the time? Big waste of money though.
2.) If the motor is stock or just minor bolt ons then yes you can run it with a stock Ecu and sell the Neptune system.
3.) Yes of course. Isn't ever turbo motor mostly driving around naturally aspirated most of the time? Big waste of money though.
It puts my mind at ease to know it isn't much of a loss to not be able to use my knock sensor, considering it's not particularly effective, as you say.
Unfortunately, I'm the type of person who likes to do things correctly, first time. Had I known that the GSR OBD1 ecu had a knock board, & the one I purchased didn't, I probably would have gone with the GSR ecu. Too late now. But again, as you say, not a loss.
I won't sell the NepTune, because I will be using it for boost, when I'm ready, I just figure if I install it now along with a set of headers, exhaust & Blox P1 cams I have, I can enjoy NA for a little while.
I went down the same path buying an OBD1 P72 for the knock board only to find that the knock "code" is not editable. None of the Honda based EMS systems can modify the knock parameters. Its on or off, that's it. And once you start modifying the engine internals with different pistons, bore size, compression, even aftermarket valve train the stock Knock system becomes completely inaccurate and useless.
Look into KnockSenseMS for a 3rd party knock detector that is extremely simple and can be wired into the EMS to log knock. Its a warning system not a logic system.
Look into KnockSenseMS for a 3rd party knock detector that is extremely simple and can be wired into the EMS to log knock. Its a warning system not a logic system.
I went down the same path buying an OBD1 P72 for the knock board only to find that the knock "code" is not editable. None of the Honda based EMS systems can modify the knock parameters. Its on or off, that's it. And once you start modifying the engine internals with different pistons, bore size, compression, even aftermarket valve train the stock Knock system becomes completely inaccurate and useless.
Look into KnockSenseMS for a 3rd party knock detector that is extremely simple and can be wired into the EMS to log knock. Its a warning system not a logic system.
Look into KnockSenseMS for a 3rd party knock detector that is extremely simple and can be wired into the EMS to log knock. Its a warning system not a logic system.
A friend also told me about the 3rd party knock detector, so I'm going to look into it now.
Thanks again!!!
You might actually get better mileage and control from the ID1000's based on what I've been reading about them, but I would suggest trying to trade them to someone for a more reasonably sized set if you want to go that route. I'm kind of interested in upgrading to a more modern injection setup for my dd project to see if it really does make a difference.
The 4-bar MAP is not really a case of "don't need to," you really should go back to stock if you're not going to boost as it's going to have less resolution over the MAP range you'll actually be using.
The 4-bar MAP is not really a case of "don't need to," you really should go back to stock if you're not going to boost as it's going to have less resolution over the MAP range you'll actually be using.
You might actually get better mileage and control from the ID1000's based on what I've been reading about them, but I would suggest trying to trade them to someone for a more reasonably sized set if you want to go that route. I'm kind of interested in upgrading to a more modern injection setup for my dd project to see if it really does make a difference.
The 4-bar MAP is not really a case of "don't need to," you really should go back to stock if you're not going to boost as it's going to have less resolution over the MAP range you'll actually be using.
The 4-bar MAP is not really a case of "don't need to," you really should go back to stock if you're not going to boost as it's going to have less resolution over the MAP range you'll actually be using.
The car is all stock currently. I haven't installed anything apart from my Skunk2 upper bars, ATI damper pulley, Gates cambelt & BDL cam gears.
In a week or so I'll be installing a header & 63mm exhaust, fitting my Teins, & possibly my Blox P1 cams.
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