i use brake in oil for 4000 miles change the filters 6 times then change to royal purple and change the oil every 5000 and change the filter 2 times
What oil do u use after braking your car in how many miles between changes how many miles on the car now

 

I use the same oil I plan on using. 10w-30? Regular motor oil. Drive the motor conservatively and try and get through the RPM range. Avoid highway driving and cruising too much. I change it after awhile and then it's business as usual. Only done this on 2 motors, but it hasn't done me any injustice.

 

sounds like a plan the guy who built my last motor told me to beat the **** out of it the first oil change motor still runing good 200000 on it

 

Start motor, let idle 2 min.
Drain oil, add 30w.

Beat the **** out of it right after.
Drain oil. Add new oil

Change oil after 500mi
Again after 1000
Come to think of it I change the oil after every track day.

 

i start up on nondetergent, run it for two heat cylces then drain and change filter. from there on, i run brad penn oil.

 

break in on brad penn or amsoil break in and then ised joe gibbs xr7

 

cheap walmart special 10w-30 for startup, let idle til reaches operating temp, blip throttle a few times (blip, not rev-to-hell), idle another minute, shutdown. drain, change filter, Valvoline 10w-30 refill. drive normally part throttle only for 30-50 miles, do 3-5 3rd gear pulls: wot from 3500-6k, zero throttle keeping it in 3rd gear using ONLY engine decal to slow down, cruise for a minute or two so temps even out, do again. immediately head home, drain, change filter, refill with Valvoline 10w-30. replace oil and filter with same after another 100 miles, then 500, then 500, then 1000. after that I'll run whatever decent oils I feel like buying at the time.

 

We had to break in our motor in a parking lot and racetrack. We did 3rd gear pulls to three grand with conventional 5w30 in the parking lot and let the engine slow the car.. On the track we kept it under 4k and ran for about 4 hours. Then we changed the oil and filter. We are only running rotella t6 5w30 full synthetic ($25 a gallon at walmart). We dynoed the motor after our last race (over 50 race hours so far) and averaged 122hp peak at the wheel for three runs. This is a naturally aspirated B20A5 with 135 crank hp when it was new, and our IABs were disabled for the dyno pulls, so I think that's pretty good. In 14 hours of racing we might use half a quart of oil.

 

seems like overkill. yes, yes i know a lot of known engine builders and such may use this technique, but on a street driven car, is it that necessary?

 

is that a bone stock setup? why were the iab's disabled?
(notice my sig)

 

a lot of people will argue and say no that is not necessary, it is overkill. but I've built plenty of engines, and have seen what comes out of the motors, and lasting effects thereafter. and yes, I will say my above technique is necessary to ensure the highest possibility of a reliable motor making the best power it can be capable of.

the biggest thing you need to remember is that when seating rings, it shaves a good amount of metal off the rings and some off the cyl walls. where does that metal go? the oil, and oil filter. and the size of those shavings varies considerably. the larger pieces get caught in the oil filter. the smaller pieces pass right through the filter and continue circulating through the motor. and they act as a very mild abrasive to all other moving parts, slowly eroding them away too when they shouldn't be. this damages the bearings mostly. which adds more shavings to the oil, also of varying size, which simply enhances the process. the only way to rid the motor of these shavings is frequent oil changes. once the rings have fully seated and the pistons and cyl walls have completely broken in and conformed to each other, normal timelines can be used for oil changes because there will be near zero continued addition of shavings to the oil.

also keep in mind that when a filter starts to fill up, it can no longer flow high enough volumes of oil, and a lot of Hondas have a bypass valve built into the block so when pressure is too high before the filter, it opens and allows oil to still flow but bypassing the filter. this circulates dirty oil through the motor, carrying shavings. and no I am not referring to the relief valve in the oil pump, that's something totally different.
and during engine break-in, it's not uncommon for the oil filter to become plugged up enough to cause this bypass valve to start opening.

moral of the story:
there is no such thing as changing your oil too often during break-in. it is not overkill. and sometimes it's required. would you rather spend a bit extra money of a few additional oil changes? or would you prefer to repair a damaged engine? or in the least have a bit less power and noticeably lower reliability and longevity (tighter bearing clearances produce higher engine power output even a couple ten-thousandths of an inch makes a measurable difference)

 

See, I've never really built a motor like you have. Most of my motor building experience was on a different platform also. I do agree though, you can never be too safe.

 

Thanks for the explanation. I followed the recommended break-in that my tuner uses and it wasnt that vigorous.

 

IAB's were disabled because we don't know what the hell we're doing. We removed the vacuum tank in the process of getting the car ready to race (What do we need this for? I don't know. Does it keep the car from running if we take it out? No. OK, toss it.). I don't think there is enough manifold vac to open the IAB at WOT, so I'm pretty sure they weren't working when we did the dyno pulls.

 

I'm gonna vouch for Valvoline VR1. The zinc additive is magical. I built a 440hp LSV a year ago, tore it apart the other day and it still had the coating over the bearings. *mindblown

 

I run non detergent 30w, get it up to temp, drain it, change filter. good quality 10w-30 with bg oil additive(loaded with zinc, and not easy to obtain, i get it from my buddie who works for toyota), straight to the dyno to put some light to medium load on it, then beat the ***** out of it..

 

*in a beavis and butthead voice - you said "*****" huuuuu

 

This is what I do. GTX 10-40 let her get warm and check for leaks. Then put it on a trailer tow it to the dyno, tune it. Tow it home drain oil refill then go pound on it for a hundred miles and change it again. Break it in how your going to drive it.

 

SAE 30 for the first 4000 miles. With an oil and filter change after initial start-up = 2 heat cycles running between 1500 - 3500 RPM. Then oil and filter changes at 500, 1500, 2500 and 4000. Then switch to whatever oil you want to run for the duration of your engines life.

I use the drive it like you would on a normal day brake in technique. So I drove the living **** out of it for the first 4000. Making sure to hit the redline on the odd occasion. And also making sure to use plenty of engine braking to seat the piston rings.

I took my valve cover off last week and the lobe and journal surfaces of my camshafts were still like new after 30k. The coatings were still there and no wear/scratch marks. Took a look down the spark plug openings with a scope and the crosshatching on the CWs still looks like the day it was done. I will use SAE 30 oil for brake in from now on. As long as the temperatures are above 0°C.

As far as what I run after....
I've currently been trying out AMSOil 5w20 full synthetic (30k so far). This may sound funny but I go more by smell, sight and touch for when my oil requires changing. I don't go by a regular km/mile interval. I change it when it needs it. I have had times when it lasts for 7000 and others when it only lasted 3000. Depends on the driving conditions and how you drive your car.

 

The 'ol smell test. That's kind of how I become suspect to a lot of problems. I had this weird smell coming from my car once, ended up being a fan wire touching the radiator and melting. Got the sniffer on it.