Hey there, So im new here and I am trying to get my 2 posts so I figured I posted what Im planning to do and see what you guys think. (yes I know there are a million articles here and I should hit search but im not asking tech questions more like just sharing what I have planned and if I blow it up.. then rinse and repeat

so I got a D16Y8 I got from work ( I work at a slavage yard) as a core, meaning is a bad motor. so I figured, I rebuild the thing and get it ready for some Turbo awesomeness!!

so here is what I got so far: what my build consist of.

So the block is currently getting honed and cleaned up. we inspected the cylinder walls and you could even see the crosshatch still on the cylinders, not glossy at all, so just to be safe I took it to the machine shop to get it inspected cleaned up and if needed lined bored or just honed.

I'm U\ising a set of Go-Autoworks vitara Teflon coated pistons, with eagle rods, that's a no brainer since it has been proven this set up will see 500hp with the right tuning and still last.

the bottom end is going with ACL race bearings at whatever the machineshop says I need them, CS is bad this motor spun a rod.

I am debating wheather I Port a new oil pump or just buy one from ebay ( the guy who does those actually lives close to me lol) I've seen his work and its pretty good.

the head is just getting a valve job and shaved, and Brian Crower springs with oem guides and Retainers will be in place. Skunk 2 manifold with DSM injectors (trying to have them run without resistor boxes) and i'll have a p28 running Neptune note if these injectors wont meet my HP goal im going to get bigger and more expensive ones lol!

This is the turbo im using, yes it is a true Holset, I work at a truck salvage yard and we have those everywhere lol

HOLSET WH1C

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with good tuning and some luck im aiming to have a 350whp

im putting together the rest of the turbokit with poarts I have laying around my shed and some ebay parts to start until I can afford the real ones lol!!

so ebay down pipe will be cut and welded to the exhaust housing of the turbo
some sort of 36-38 mm westgate
I have 2 intercoolers here so ill have to check which one is not cracked
ebay piping until I can get the go-autoworks pipe kit
cast iron turbo mani
walbro 255lph
red fpr I think is an ebay one lol I just got it on a trade we'll try it and see what happens

I am somewhat of a mechanic, more of a part changer lol, but I have rebuilt a couple other engines with no problems, in this one im just going to be a lot more meticulous and take my sweet time doing it right.

the only thing im debating is weather to use a block guard or not? reason why im even considering it is because I would like to do a couple dyno runs and see how much can I get out of this turbo, and then just tune it down to a streetable 350hp, but I don't want to blow up in the high HP runs (high in sohc language I mean )


well there it is, let me know what u guys think

 

can I have a MOD move this to foced induction area please

 

That's a BIG turbo for a 1.6L engine. I wouldn't expect the stock sleeves to last very long. I've always heard blockguards are garbage and just hurt cooling.

 

the turbo is pretty much the same size as hx35 ive done my share of research and it actually works for what I want. I don't want a turbo that spools to quick so I can drive it on the highway without boosting, meaning I want it to spool after 4k and from what I read this turbo will spool on a sohc about 4.5k to 5k. my engine will rev up to 8.3k so I got a good boost band to play with. but I appreciate you comment and I will do more research in to it. I have a lot of turbos to choose from where I work.

 

this is what i found on this turbo rember i have the wh1c which is the smaller one that came on non intercooled Cummings trucks. reason why I think this turbo will work. I mean better than an emusa or godspeed for sure lol

http://www.d-series.org/forums/force...-h1e-wh1e.html

 

Vitaras on stock length rods are **** due to the shitty 7.x:1 compression ratio they make. Car will be a dog out of boost, get shitty mpg and make less hp per lb of boost compared to higher compression motors

And I'll tell you the same thing I told the other guy about the y8... and don't give me any of your oil pump bullshit because you're wrong and basically talking out of your ***

 

wow dude you need to relax, if i'm wrong, fine. ill learn from my mistakes. you dont have to be a dick about it

 

I would reconsider a few parts of this build. Vitaras on stock-length rods have really low compression and couple that with a gigantic H1C, i wouldnt expect boost until redline in 4th gear. Personally, I'd opt for something smaller (like a T3 Super60 or even a 50trim)

 

What turbine housing are you planning on using? On a single cam I would use the 9cm. Or the small bep bolt on housing. If your not running one of those then get another turbo.

 

Man. I wouldn't test how much HP that turbo can put out by using your own engine as the tool to test it. Sounds like a blown motor. Anyways, 350 whp is a lot for most civics. The fact that you are doing it on a D series means it's going to be more work. I hope you get a good tune at least. Good internals or not, the tune is the most important part.

 

Yea I'm sorry. Bad night yesterday lol

 

ty guys for the replies!!

Im reconsidering the whole deal! i got bad news from the machine my Y8 block is no good.

So i'm going to get a Z6 block (its already on the way) and I'm using vitara R-C autoworks rods. I havent oreder them bc i dont know what size the pistons need to be until the machine shop gets through with the block.

For the turbo. I agree it may be too big. But like I said I have lots of options for turbos from diesel trucks so I may just go HX35 and get the upgrade by Baer.

http://baeturbosystems.com/compresso...4-2-2-1-2.aspx

 

I'ts all good man!

 

What is the purpose of this upgrade?

 

Turbo is not to big for this setup, just tune it properly.

I use a He351ve and a SC14 in my Twincharge setup for almost 2 yrs. with no sleeve problems.