p28-a51 ecu
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
I just picked up that ecu from junkyard it looks to be one of the factory chipped ecus
does it mean that I can desolder the oem chip and put the crome programmable chip instead?
does it mean that I can desolder the oem chip and put the crome programmable chip instead?
There are no OEM chipped P28s on earth. P28-A51 simply means it's for automatic. The chip is aftermarket, or was installed by an authorized dealer (the good old days before pass-thru).
Be sure to perform an auto-manual conversion on the ECU if you're tuning for a manual transmission. If you're tuning for an automatic, I would suggest trying to salvage the existing chip and start with that base.
Be sure to perform an auto-manual conversion on the ECU if you're tuning for a manual transmission. If you're tuning for an automatic, I would suggest trying to salvage the existing chip and start with that base.
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
I just took It to use with crome chip for b series
so I don't have to chip it completely it was in a car with d15b im assuming it was jdm
93 civic 2 door
so I don't have to chip it completely it was in a car with d15b im assuming it was jdm
93 civic 2 door
manual conversion might have already been done on it. good luck getting the chip out. I'd suggest cutting off the legs first and pulling the legs out one by one instead of trying to desolder the whole things and roasting the vias.
Desoldering those factory chips can be a pain, and you will more then likely lift a trace if your not very experenced at desoldering. Your better off paying someone who has done it a few times or you'll probally end up needing another ecu.
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There are no OEM chipped P28s on earth. P28-A51 simply means it's for automatic. The chip is aftermarket, or was installed by an authorized dealer (the good old days before pass-thru).
Be sure to perform an auto-manual conversion on the ECU if you're tuning for a manual transmission. If you're tuning for an automatic, I would suggest trying to salvage the existing chip and start with that base.
Be sure to perform an auto-manual conversion on the ECU if you're tuning for a manual transmission. If you're tuning for an automatic, I would suggest trying to salvage the existing chip and start with that base.
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
according to the internet there was a revision on 1993 model civics
I don't know if this one had original engine but it had a d15b which is a jdm d series vtec (not dual stage vtec)
heres the car I pulled it out of
http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1HGEJ1265PL055189
Engine 1.6L L4 SOHC 16V
Trans 4-Speed Automatic
Trim EX coupe
Vin 1HGEJ1265PL055189
I don't know if this one had original engine but it had a d15b which is a jdm d series vtec (not dual stage vtec)
heres the car I pulled it out of
http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/1HGEJ1265PL055189
Engine 1.6L L4 SOHC 16V
Trans 4-Speed Automatic
Trim EX coupe
Vin 1HGEJ1265PL055189
I've socketed MANY OEM chipped ECUs. You can tell it's OEM because the chip has a GOLD patch in the middle of the chip. If you need someone to socket that ECU PM me.
They were not manufactured by IPT or Denshigiken; they were installed using open market components by a dealership or electronics shop. This was done for recalls and C.A.R.B. obligations before pass-thru was available.
That's a UVEPROM, they were used by all chip tuners before EEPROMS were developed. The gold patch is applied to block out UV light so the chip doesn't erase itself.
All OEM electronics are ROM only.
That's a UVEPROM, they were used by all chip tuners before EEPROMS were developed. The gold patch is applied to block out UV light so the chip doesn't erase itself.
All OEM electronics are ROM only.
Coat both sides of the vias in soldering flux and add new solder to dilute the joint if needed.
Do NOT use desoldering braid; use either a solder sucker or desoldering station and remove the solder from the back of the board.
OR if you don't care about the old chip, just snip off the legs right at the chip, remove the body, and heat up each hole individually as you pull out the legs.
When it's removed you can use a small sharp pin tool (common in soldering tool sets) and hollow out the vias with that instead of desoldering again. This is often safer since the boards are brittle and can't handle much heat.
If you don't have all of these tools already, just pay someone to do it. It'll probably save you money.
Do NOT use desoldering braid; use either a solder sucker or desoldering station and remove the solder from the back of the board.
OR if you don't care about the old chip, just snip off the legs right at the chip, remove the body, and heat up each hole individually as you pull out the legs.
When it's removed you can use a small sharp pin tool (common in soldering tool sets) and hollow out the vias with that instead of desoldering again. This is often safer since the boards are brittle and can't handle much heat.
If you don't have all of these tools already, just pay someone to do it. It'll probably save you money.
They were not manufactured by IPT or Denshigiken; they were installed using open market components by a dealership or electronics shop. This was done for recalls and C.A.R.B. obligations before pass-thru was available.
That's a UVEPROM, they were used by all chip tuners before EEPROMS were developed. The gold patch is applied to block out UV light so the chip doesn't erase itself.
All OEM electronics are ROM only.
That's a UVEPROM, they were used by all chip tuners before EEPROMS were developed. The gold patch is applied to block out UV light so the chip doesn't erase itself.
All OEM electronics are ROM only.
Thread Starter
B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
I have the tools I ve done many ecus was just wondering to keep the chip or not. is it any use at all? or d15b maps from that chip already available for download?
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