cel6, cel23, cel45 need help
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From: Jordan Michael, Minnesotian
okay, i need all the help i can get on this one....check out the link below
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=310917
[Modified by pennies_hatchie, 2:13 PM 10/26/2002]
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=310917
[Modified by pennies_hatchie, 2:13 PM 10/26/2002]
Have you ever checked a sensor for reference voltage or resistance? If you you can put a DMM to the sensor after the car has been running and find the resistance which is representative of the temp. You can find a chart, that shows what temp=what resistance and compare. This will help you determine if the sensor is going bad. You can also check reference voltage to the harness that plugs in to the sensor.
At any time did you try replacing the thermostat?
Rule of thumb- start with the lowest numbered code first (Code 6) usually after eliminating that code the others may go as well (which in this case seems logical).
At any time did you try replacing the thermostat?
Rule of thumb- start with the lowest numbered code first (Code 6) usually after eliminating that code the others may go as well (which in this case seems logical).
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Jordan Michael, Minnesotian
Have you ever checked a sensor for reference voltage or resistance? If you you can put a DMM to the sensor after the car has been running and find the resistance which is representative of the temp. You can find a chart, that shows what temp=what resistance and compare. This will help you determine if the sensor is going bad. You can also check reference voltage to the harness that plugs in to the sensor.
At any time did you try replacing the thermostat?
Rule of thumb- start with the lowest numbered code first (Code 6) usually after eliminating that code the others may go as well (which in this case seems logical).
At any time did you try replacing the thermostat?
Rule of thumb- start with the lowest numbered code first (Code 6) usually after eliminating that code the others may go as well (which in this case seems logical).
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Code 45 is too rich/too lean fuel mixture. Anyone who messes with a V-AFC, cams/gears or fuel pressure regulator on an OBD2-equipped car gets well-acquainted with that code.
I hate it
Solution? P28 ECU or Hondata.
I hate it
Solution? P28 ECU or Hondata.
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From: Jordan Michael, Minnesotian
okay, what i mean by replacing the water temp sensor is that i was trying to trouble shoot 3 of the sensors that is involved with the water temp. i replaced the sensor that turns on/off the fan because the fan didnt work (sounded logical). well turns out the fan still didnt work, and i was already drained on $$. so i decided to just connect the fan direct to a switch. anyways, for the knock sensor, turns out that the black plastic piece is broken and the metal inside it broke off from the metal piece that connects to the engine. so if im right, all i have to do is replace the bad knock sensor with a good one and my trouble with the knock sensor would go away right? okay with cel 45, how am i going to correct this. i know that my engine is running too rich, but how do i get it back to normal.
thanks
thanks
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From: Jordan Michael, Minnesotian
well not really, because i just did the swap and got the codes thrown at me, so i have no idea on how much gas the thing eats
Do you know how many MPG you are getting per tank since the swap? I may be off here in my thoughts, but you could check your fuel pressure and see if its dropping - could have a leaky injector that would cause a rich fuel condition.
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From: Jordan Michael, Minnesotian
well i checked the injectors and they look fine, still dont know how i would go about fixing the fich fuel, cause im gettting a lot of backfire when i start the car (w/out pushing on gas) once im driving it, the car doesnt backfire anymore. also, is there a way to get rid of cel 23 other than replacing the ks or getting a chipped p28. by the way, if i was to put in a new ks, would that usaully take care of the problem?
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