91 CRX with D15b2, just got it running again after about 3-4 weeks of being out because i fucked up on my wire tuck.
after all that stuff was fixed it now runs pretty rich, i can smell the gas and theres smoke coming from my tail pipe and my exhaust leak in my down pipe, as well as an unexplained miss fire. i pulled my wires one by one while it was idling and ive come to think its cylinder 4 since it didnt stumble like it did the other 3. also its lacking power entirely....
dizzy is at full advance and my cam/crank timing is dead on.
pulled an injector to see if it would even out the a/f a bit which it didnt. so now im lost. i know its not my valve lash because(granted my lash is off) it didnt run like this before hand. found a wire that i cut and didnt reconnect, which is a ground, and im not entirely sure where it goes anymore.... lol.

[edit] ground wire was to either my high or low beams. not sure which one since i have high/low HIDs in a single unit.

 

okay, now it will sometimes stumble on idle and then stall out if i dont rev it.....

 

bumpp....

 

bumpity bumpity....

 

Any check engine lights.
Ground the wire.

 

well the wire goes from ground to atmosphere.
and i cleared all my CEL aside from my code 19 which will forever be there until i do my swap. ill go out and check if i have any CEL

 

1, 16, 17, 19.
O2 sensor, speedo sensor, fuel injector, auto tranny lock up

 

lol what??

 

i f* up on my wire tuck
it now runs pretty rich
dizzy is at full advance (WHY?????)
1, 16, 17, 19


Do you have an auto trans?
Check your O2 wire - easy check.
Speed sensor - does your speedometer work? If it DOES then you probably wrecked the wire on from the gauge to the ECU.
Fuel injectors do NOT have sensors on them. The ECU is just detecting a problem with other sensors (usually done with the O2, but yours is disconnected?) that seems like a problem with a fuel injector. Since you are DPFI and the engine is sort of running, then it would be hard to say the injectors are not working at all. Maybe something simple like you switched the primary and secondary on accident?

Bad wire tuck gone wrong.

 

my speedo doesnt work anymore i destroyed another cable lol. and its always been at full advance, im not sure why and it ran fine before.
i switched the plugs for the injectors and cleared my codes and all that.
i let it idle for a bit but it was idling better how the plugs were before(which is how they're supposed to be) and running more rich than it was before and it was stumbling and missfiring and inevitably stalled out. i was only getting a 19.

and it was an auto but it was swapped and thats why im getting the code 19 and why i ignore it.

 

when a wire is "ground to atmosphere" it goes from a ground and the end of the wire goes to nothing.
im too lazy to just pull it off; it WAS for my headlights but i put the ground closer to the headlight.

 

With no speedo, you will forever have code 16.
It will never run correctly because the eCU needs to know the speed.

 

i drove it with a faulty speedo cable for a month and it ran fine. all the vss is for is so the ecu knows how many miles are traveled. the vss would have no reign over how much fuel is added, or anything of the sort; speedos are only accurate up to ~55mph on the speedo, anyway, then its off by 5 until 80/85 then by 6-8 until 125.

 

check the sensors on your intake manifold theres 2 of them that use the same plug check and see if there switched this will cause the same kind of issues. are you running a auto ecu?

 

yea im running an auto ECU.
with the IAT and the idle control connectors switched the car wont idle. i know. that was my problem before lmfao.

 

Well, guess you got it all figured out then.
Good luck with your mess.

... why would an ECU care how many miles. >shrug<
Guess you don't need that O2 sensor either. ECU don't care!

 

i drove my car for a week like that lol. id go over your wiring job and make sure everythings soldered and in its right place. and find a manual ecu im pretty sure theres a difference between the 2 and a manual b2 ecu should be easy and cheap to find since every1 gets rid of them.

your o2 sensor will make your car run rich if its not working properly

 

whoa calm down bro no need to be snarky lulz.
the ecu knowing how many miles have been traveled will not harm cars performance at all.


i finally got a multimeter to test my harnesses and sensors and all that jazz. never ran into this problem tucking before, hence why im dumbfounded. and i dont plan on getting a new ECU until i do my swap. its had the manual tranny for a year with the same ecu, so its not gonna bother me, i could just disable the CEL indicator on the dash.

 

yeah just ignore the problems by disabling cel indicator light and running an auto ecu on a manual swap instead of fixing it with correct intended parts.. good philosophy lol

 

i have had no problems what so ever with my auto ECU. i would have the same problems i am now if i had a manual ECU, so that "get a new ECU' theory is thus null and void.

now if someone wants to help me with my problem at hand, please do.

 

Your ECU does NOT record how many miles you have traveled.
You have a mechanical odometer that performs that job.

Much newer cars have electronic odometers and the ECU may keep record of the miles traveled as well.

The ECU needs to know the speed at which the car is moving as this speed does get calculated into the fuel and ignition maps.

You should have ZERO check engine lights codes if you want your engine to run properly.

 

hes not understanding that philosophy.. heres a helpful suggestion take it to a professional

 

Unplug the O2 sensors. See if it runs better. May be a shot O2 flooding the cylinders with fluid.