first off i have a 96 integra with a 81x95 b18c1 with 13.1:1 cp pistons with a b16 head and supertech springs/retainers, ferrea valves and blox stage 3 cams. it also has rc 440cc injectors. now itll start and run okay on a stock ecu that i have and go into vtec, although on the stock ecu it doesnt make much power at all which is understandable (not sure what ecu it is, sticker wore off) but when i hook it up to my p28 with S300 it wont even start, itll try to and you can hear it firing but it wont start. can anybody make me a base map so i can get this thing started on the s300? i plan on having a friend of mine whos tuned all sorts of stuff including a few 700whp+ cars tune it once he gets the time, but id like to be able to get it running on the s300 so he has something to start from, thanks.

also is it possible theres some kind of setting i need to change to get it to start? like anti-theft or something like that. i checked the security tab in the parameters window and couldnt find anything. although im not very familiar with the s300 software so maybe there is something i missed, im used to tuning carbed v8's and not EFI haha

 

also how would i wire my wideband into it? i have a PLX dm-5 wideband if that helps any

 

http://hondata.com/techplxwiring.html

obd1 ecu
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif

obd2a ecu
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif

 

you should not even be attempting to drive the car on the stock ecu, that's about the fastest way to destroy the motor.
same goes for a basemap. while a basemap will be better than the stock ecu, and would allow you to actually drive it, it's still a basemap and should only be driven on to get to a tuner and verify the engine has no leaks and will function properly, nothing else.

basically what I'm saying is STOP DRIVING THE CAR!
if your tuner is comfortable tuning your car, then your tuner should be able to whip up a basemap for you in under 20 mins. ask him.

also, your total compression is probably higher than 13.0:1, and more than likely is not safe with pump gas. you'll most likely need 100 octane for that setup.
IF it is capable of running on pump gas, it'll need major attention paid to the ignition settings to not grenade. which makes the tune that much more important, and the need to stop driving the car immediately an absolute necessity

 

there is no red wire, every wire is black other than the 6 from the o2 that plug directly into the control box

 

Phearable would be a awesome place to get a basemap from.

If you're interested in the other options, PM Me, I offer e-tuning services.

 

i just contacted another local guy with a dyno so ill see what he says first before i do anything mail order but ill definitely get ahold of them and i PM'd you too

 

13:1CR is very high.

If you are not running race gas, siphon the pump gas out and fill it with C16.

Then have the tuner come to you or two your car to the tuner. That's a safe route to take.

Not enough octane has killed many, many motors.

 

For the sake of your motor I hope it's corn fed.

 

Where did you get the s300 there are ALOT of fake s300 going around

 

red wire is the power wire. when i get home tonite i will take pics of how i did mine and post them up for you.

 

okay thanks, the only wires on the power cord of mine are black and black with a white stripe, ill post some pics of mine too

 

from somebody i know personally, he had owned it for awhile and it worked in his car with no issues

 

first picture. the black plug to the right that comes from the gauge goes into the TX hole and not the RX hole correct?

the middle white 4 prong plug, which is coming from the back of the gauge has a wire in the top left and then the second wire doesnt plug in, where is that 2nd wire wired to?



second picture. in this picture you can see the power plug all the way to the right only has a plain black wire and a black wire with a white stripe coming from it. does anybody know which is the positive and which is the ground?



third picture. this is an output from the back of the gauge that doesnt need to be used. correct?

 

the wire all the way to the left with the black and black with white stripe is the power wire. the black wire is ground, and the black with white stripe is power. you need to put a inline fuse with the the power with a 3amp fuse. on the analog plug next to the power plug: the top left is the 3.3v that goes to the gauge, the top right is 0-1v output to go to your narrowband signal of your ecu(optinal, cause you need to read the how to process on hondatas website to make that feature work properly, my narrowband o2 sensor is turned off on my s300 tune), the bottom right is 0-5v output to go to your ecu for datalogging your air fuel ratios, not sure if the your sensor module has the ground on the bottom left pin like my tuner edition plx. the tx does go to your gauge.

http://plxdevices.com/support/manual...UsersGuide.pdf
http://plxdevices.com/support/manual...UsersGuide.pdf

 

do i need the narrowband sensor turned on on my s300? why would i need it on if i do?

and do i have to add a pin to the analog plug on the bottom right to datalog or can i datalog with just the hondata s300?

thank you for the help so far!

 

the wire im touching is the 0-5v wideband signal going from the back of my plx tuner edition box and going to eld D16(obd2a, which is D10 for obd1) on my ecu harness. notice its the wire that goes from grey to blue/black stripe.

heres a closer look of the blue/black stripe wire going into the D16(obd2a) which is D10(obd1).

this is where the grey wire starts at the 0-5v output on the plug which is the bottom right pinout.

 

you dont need to use the narrowband, as long as you have a good tune, you just have to find the settings in the smanager to do so. you can datalog with the s300, but if you want the s300 to be able to datalog and record your air fuel ratios you need to run a wire from the bottom right port that i stated in my pictures to the correct pinouts for your vehicle. the pinout diagrams are in the links i sent you from phearable. the hondata link i sent you explains as well, and tells you to run the ground to the thermostat housing.

 

does the gray wire go into the 0bd2a-0bd1 jumper? or directly into the obd1 plug thats going into the ecu?. i see on yours its before the jumper but i figured id ask just in case. and where could i get those little metal pins? radioshack?

my gauge isnt the tuner edition so it doesnt have the ground in the bottom-left, should i add one or is it unnecessary?

and where does the other wire that comes off the gauge with the top-left wire go? the one outlined in blue in the pic

 

and im not sure if this has been answered yet, i just read through this thread again and didnt see anything, or i missed it haha. but what does this output from the gauge go to? just to add stuff? or is it necessary?

 

.

 

I pinned it out before the jumper harness on the factory ecu harness. I just removed the eld pin and put in the 0-5v signal right in its place. I dont know where to get honda oem ecu pins from. I just take a junk harness and pull the pins out of the ecu plugs and leave myself plenty of wire and solder the wire to whatever im wanting to wire up. The plx pins you can order from plx, you just have to phone in the order. I added the ground for a more stable and accurate datalog to the ecu, i really didnt need to but i did it for piece of mind, so you can do it if you want but call plx and make sure thats the ground on your plx box, cause im sure you dont have the user manual, i ran that ground to the t-stat housing. Thatt wire you outlined in blue goes to nothing.