I just put in a lsvtec in my hatch and it started it yesterday and it cranked everything turned on perfectly and it fired it up.. The rear was on jack stands because I was half way through a rear disc conversion. So today I finished it bled the breaks dropped it on wheels. Went to start it and power went to the dash and everything I didn't hear the fuel pump and it didn't crank. I hear clicking wen I go to turn the key. I went ahead and push started it with out any problems and it drove fine and vtec works. But I don't know why it won't crank or why fuel pump isn't going on over a single night... All I did was pulled out the copper bar that the 40amp and 80 amp fuses in the engine bay fuse box. Lightly cleaned it and put it back. No fuses blew.. Under dash or in the engine bay.. Why I took that copper piece out is that I was getting a eld (I think) code 20 and I figure its that connection. Im guessing it has something to do with that because it's the only thing I did engine bay wise that wud cause the car to be able to crank up.. Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance
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If the car doesn't crank using the ignition but able to push start, your battery is getting weak. Buy yourself a multimeter and check the voltage. The battery should read around 11.3VDC with the engine OFF and 14.4VDC with it turned ON.

 

but i dont even hear my fuel pump turn on when i put the key in the on position... so would that even be something with ignition since the pump downs turn on for 2 seconds.... like it turned on 2 days ago when i ran the car on jack stands now its not getting to that point.

 

if your fuel pump doesn't work, YOU CANNOT push start the car.

 

This^


And check the rubber stopper that presses on the starter switch located at the top of the clutch pedal.

 

Im not getting any lights on the dash aswell no check engine lights flash or batt or oil light. only srs is on when the key is in on.. i am getting power cuz my door open thing keeps beeping.

the fuel pump is working.. i am just not getting any signal for it to turn on. i was fiddling with my negative batter terminal connector and the key was in on position. wen i went to put it on it had the spark which is normal wen u put it on while the car is on. and i hear my fuel prime and my oil and battery lights came on. i wasnt fast enough to check the engine light flash. trying to start it nothing but wen i tryed that again it didnt work.

Would the negative battery terminal have something to do with me not getting all the power i need to run to ecu and all the jazz? cuz it looks in a bad shape. alot of the standed wires broke off and the actual clip that goes around the terminal looks very rough.

 

If the CEL never turns on, then a previous owner may have removed the bulb from the cluster. Check that.

Is spark bright white at all 4 spark plugs? Click the spark link in my signature.

 

Do u not understand that it started fine two days ago? no the previous owner didnt remove bulb because everything worked two days ago... untill i pulled out the eld in the fuse box that 40 amp and 80 amp fuse sit on.. Im trying to figure out why im getting power to my ecu.. any suggestions? would a bad condition ground negative battery terminal be the cause of this? because nothing was touched since it started exept for the fuse box eld and the actual negative terminal is horrible shape always loose and alot of the stranded wires at the clips are broken

 

A dying battery won't show CEL. Instead of ASSUMING you know it all, why don't you get one of these. It doesn't take a genius to operate one.

 

i do have one... im getting 12.56 v on the battery

 

ARE YOU GETTING 12.56 VOLTS AT THE STARTER???

 

My man, crazyhouse, please turn off the caps lock for your tech posts.

 

MY BAD. I SWEAR IT'S NOT ON PURPOSE. MY COMPUTER IS 5 YEARS OLD AND IS FAILING. BAD CD DRIVE, THEN THE SOUNDCARD WENT OUT, NOW I'M HAVING VARIOUS HARDWARE ISSUES. AT THIS POINT I'M NOT SURE WHAT TO DO... UGH.

 

If that reading is with the engine ON, it's a dying battery. It is not holding a charge. More than likely that is not the reading with the engine OFF. Most batteries will read around 11.8Vdc but never that high.

 

I have hammer that will permanently fix your keyboard.

 

Not sure the last time you measured voltage across your battery posts. 12.5V is the sign of a good battery. 11.8V is a dead battery.

 

EXACTLY I WAS STARTING TO GET WORRIED.
STAZ0LOAF: GET YOUR TESTER OUT NOW, AND MEASURE THE VOLTAGE ACROSS THE STARTER TERMINALS. SEE IF YOU ARE GETTING THAT FULL VOLTAGE. IF NOT THEN THERE COULD BE A FEW POSSIBILITIES:
A) YOU SEVERED A WIRE DOING THE SWAP
B) YOU SHORTED THE WIRE DOING THE SWAP
C) YOU SEVERED OR SHORTED THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE.

ANYBODY ELSE WANT TO ADD TO THIS?

 

Not a useful test -- Both starter terminals are power, so voltage across them would measure 0V.

 

Okay i think i might have made some progress.. maybe?

i swapped out to a new negative battery cable since mine was very bad..
now wen i turn the key it on my oil and check engine lights come on but very very dim unlike the srs light. same as when i try to start the car they would just flash but very dim.... my lights work very bright though... would this be a sign from a bad battery? the thing is its about 3 weeks old... -.-

About me shorting the wires in my harness is very imposible since i got a new harness and put that bitch in and the car fired up... this was wen it was on jackstands. the day before it wouldnt turn on... so i dont know what i could of shorted.... only thing i did was extended the map sensor wires but that would be odd since its just to wires so it reaches the clip....

 

although this was at night so i might not have seen the dim engine light or oil light a day ago wen it was daytime... but i swear nothing came on i looked very closely

 

That's what I was going to say, if you have 11.8 you're in trouble