In the next couple of months I will be building my automatic 92 Civic dx. I've done my research but I can't make up my mind on a couple of things.
I know I want to swap a d-series vtec in for my non-vtec. I was looking at the d15b vtec and the d16z6 in particular.
I know the specs, but I was looking for the opinions on actual performance. I do plan to put a turbo in it, but not in the near future.
I'm going to do a five speed swap with the motor as well. Do I HAVE to buy an auto to manual swap mount, or can I get a manual mount from a junk yard?

 

swap in a b you'll be happier

 

sell the car and buy one already manual

 

How much money are you willing to spend will depend on what you can do with the car.

 

You will need...

brake/clutch pedal assembly
clutch master cylinder/lines
clutch slave cylinder
manual trans/clutch/flywheel/pressure plate
shift linkage/shifter/****
auto-manual trans mount
manual starter
reverse light connector for manual trans
manual passender side trans vibration/torque mount

Thats all I can think of off the top of my head...there may be a couple things im missing (its been a few yrs since I did mine)

That swap is a pita, massively. Do yourself a favor and sell the car and buy one thats already manual

 

Yeah the auto to trans mount can be funny.....

Either cut your current motor mount pocket off reweld in a manual one OR buy the auto to manual CONVERSION mount which allows the car to keep its original passenger side trans mount pocket in place and untouched..

Auto to manual is very simple if you have done one before. first timers will either learn alot from doing so and will be up for another one in the future or some first timers may say to hell with this BS and give up half way through.

 

I'm going to buy motor and trans as a unit. If I buy another car then I don't know what other expenses to account for. I could just be digging myself in a deeper hole by doing so.

 

you do not need another car you need a conversion mount.

 

http://hasport.com/store/index.php/m...-eg/egamh.html

 

^ that mount will allow you to install a 5speed into the civic without any hard work or modification!

 

Thanks man, I appreciate it.
How much power do you think I would gain by building a d15b vtec? While keeping the stock engine bore. Also, would I gain more bottom end by building the head or the block? I want it to be able to pull up the hills of southwest VA, mountainous region, while maintaining a constant speed. Anyone who lives in the mountains will understand. I'm going start out all motor.

 

If you're worried about being able to climb hills, you should be more worried how much torque the engine has. Torque is a function of displacement and stroke. In which case a D15 isn't great. Do what sleepy recommends and get a H motor. Later on do an HtoB trans swap. Then do a turbo. Reliable power and torque for cheap. And you can phase your build as cash becomes available.

 

Straight H-swaps still require some cutting and hacking that would preclude then trying to go H2B wouldn't it?

 

Oh, yeah I didn't think about that.

 

I don't want to do any cutting. I'd rather just drop one in, aside from the tranny swap.

Another thing, I rounded the total for the D15 five speed swap to around $2000. So, say I decided to buy a 5 speed, same model, and put a D15 in it. How much would that set me back, approxomatly? (Preferably a rolling chassis, but beggers can't be choosers.)

Edit: If I can get 200 out of the D15 after it's built I'll be happy.

 

If you sticking with a D series motor why not go for a Z6 or Y8?

No one can tell you an exact price on anything. You can find good deals you just gotta search and wait for one to pop up. 2 grand sounds like alot imo.

 

I don't want to do it cheap, that's why my estimate is steep. Although, if I do end up just getting another car I'll probably go with a B. Then I won't have any down time, and I'll skip the frustrating 5-speed swap. I've always wanted a project car too.

 

Tons of HP potential, (gobs of torque with high compression/high pressure inducted builds) still very good availability of new and used performance parts, very good availability of interchangeable "used" salvage yard parts, ease of basic drop-in configuration, help with every possible aspect of building and modification and troubleshooting and tuning - doing a B-Series makes the most economic, fewest headache, least time required sense. If you have money, do the K-Series.

 

The B-series should give me what I'm looking for, and then some.
If I boost in the future what kind of compression ratio should I go for?

 

You should stop and read the FAQ's, both here as well as in the forced induction section. CR is less important than how competent your tuner is. Any dumbass with a laptop can tune for boost on 8:1 CR - it takes a real pro to tune boost on 11:1.

 

From my perspective, it depends on what you're going to use it for. I'm assuming a DD? There's a lot of variables.

If that's correct, I'd just get the basic swap into it first, enjoy it, acquire the hands-on platform knowledge you'll get in the swap process. Then, while you're reading up on the B-Series turbo build threads (there are a lot of good ones here) start listing/buying the upgrade parts for your induction goals at that point. There are some performance parts that can be used in both applications like ignition upgrades, ECU upgrade, cam gears, upgraded oil, water and fuel pumps, etc. that I'd get first once the commitment goal is defined and the finances are solidified.

I'm somewhat biased. Safety, Safety, Safety! The initial areas that I'd focus on for a high hp ride, believe it or not, are brakes, suspension, steering and then high HP power.

 

I'll probably buy a new car so I don't have any down time on my DD. I have to have a ride to be able to fund the build.

I agree on the safety part. I would much rather have a good handling car than a death trap. Rear disc conversions and a suspension kit are already on my list.

When it comes to tuning the turbo, I don't plan on doing that myself. I'll probably have it profesionally tuned so I don't muck things up.

 

Ya, that makes sense. I went (and am going) about it by having two civics (an EJ and an EG) for interchangeability and parts cannibalization occasionally. Even though I blew the D16Z in the EJ making them both in work, it's allowed me to apply lessons learned on one and easily apply them (or avoid mistakes to) the other.

Persistence in vision at one step at a time.