My transmission is going in a 95 civic Ex due to the input shaft bearing. It is starting to get worse and now when I turn off the car I can hear that bearing grinding. I have been told it would cost around $800 or so to get it fixed due to all the labour. I was told it would be best to just replace the transmission with a used one as the price is about the same.

Seeing that this car has 171,xxx miles on it and I need it to last at least 3 more years until I get finished with school and can get a S2000
would it be better to do a whole swap?

I found a mint looking JDM D15B Vtec (head and block) with a S20 manual transmission with only 52,xxx miles on it and it comes with all the goodies, A/C, Alternator, P08 OBD1 ECU, Power Steering Pump, etc...

I was thinking, having an engine and transmission with 52k miles on it is almost like having a new car, at least under the hood anyhow. For the engine, trans and install it would probably be around $2,200, which is still cheaper than a new car.

In other posts I read some people saying getting parts for the JDM D15B is hard, would this be a problem for a daily driver?

Thanks for your insight!

 

I think you should read a bit and swap it in your self 2.2K is nuts for a swap that simple !!. even the higher end shops here wouldn't charge near that

 

The cost of the engine and transmission is $1,600 shipped and to put the engine and trans would be another $600.

$1,600 for engine and trans with 52,000 miles, seems good? I have no idea. It seems fair.

I have no idea who could do it for less than $600. If only I could barter someone to do it for my D16Z6 + trans, which is fine. I just rather have a newer engine.

 

lolno. You want to swap an entire engine because your ISB is bad? The ISB can be fixed, yourself, for a couple hundred dollars in parts/tools and a weekend. On top of that, the Z6 motor is more reliable than the D15B.

 

i just recently did the isb in my car and it is really not hard. the part is like 25$ from honda and you probably have all the tools. only special one is the snap ring pliers and it IS a bitch to get off. took me 3 hours to replace it. probably gonna need a blow torch to heat around the isb. just look up a thread on how to do it. $25 is a lot nicer on your wallet then $2200

 

No offense to OP but if he can't swap that motor for motor and ISB job may be beyond him. But I agree just have the ISB replaced unless the Z6 has a rod knock or is blowing smoke like a chimney. Unless you just have stacks of $100s laying around the house that you burn in your fireplace.

 

have a friend and yourself remove the trans and take it somewhere to have the isb fixed, then re install the trans. much cheaper

 

If you want to slap down that much for a swap, get a B motor and call it a day

 

Not exactly, but heck, if it only costs $1,000 more I was thinking, the hell with it. I do not know much about engines, so thanks for the clear up on the Z6.

 

Yeah, the Z6/A6 are arguably the best D series motor, simply because they're the only D series with dual oil channels on the bearings.

Only costs $1000 more? You can do the ISB yourself for about $400, and that includes the parts AND all of the tools you would need, assuming you have absolutely no tools whatsoever. Toss in an extra $500, and you can bolt on a high quality clutch as well. Toss another $30 on there to get your flywheel machined while you're down there. The engine swap was, you said, $2200?

I just saved you $1270, AND got more work done for you. that $1270 could put a turbo on your car and double it's WHP. Or go in the bank. Or take you to Disney World. Whatever the **** you want to do with it.

 

Thanks for the reply. I checked with Honda, the guy said the ISB is $50. I do have most of the tools. According to the service manual, there is 17 steps in taking out the transmission. From what it looks like, you have to pull the shift fork assemblies and gearsets straight out of the tranny to get to the ISB and if everything is not correct, one is screwed. I think I might be able to do this, but if I screwed something up, it would really suck.

I was thinking as another option to use Synchrotech. From what I read they do a great job with transmissions. They sell completely rebuilt S20's for 92-95 Civic (EX) for $600. If I went that route, I'd just switch them out myself.

 

Can't go wrong with Synchrotech. That's where I got my rebuild kit from, they're great people.

 

You can buy a trans for small change here you might be able to find a good trans for under $200. He'll I got a couple trans here lol. Got an s20 I was gonna put on my d but the one it's got works fine so it's a spare or good for a car I can buy with blown trans

 

Thanks for the reply jbpnoman. Do you have any idea what they replace in the rebuilds that Synchrotech does? It says they replace what needs to be replaced, but that does not say much.

I was thinking about getting this. http://shop.synchrotech-transmission...-C9295-425.htm

With shipping, the cost is $715.38

I was hoping they replace everything that they sell in their rebuild kit for $300, it looks like excellent quality parts. Do you happen to know if the 1995 Civic EX S20 Trans is either 40 or 35mm?

Thanks again!

 

I thought about this, but really one never knows the true facts about a used transmission. Did the previous driver change the MTF, did they shift really hard, etc... Going through all the trouble of putting it in, to only having to take it right back out later on is just a pain in the royal ****.

 

Thanks again. What I did was order a Exedy Pro Kit that includes hd flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout/release bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool. Exedy is the OEM for Honda clutches, so buying from them saved a lot of money. I got it all for just $156

How difficult is it to take off the axles and put them back on the trans?

Thanks again!

 

I don't work for them, so I can't really say. If I had to say, I would assume they replace the synchro assemblies, as well as any damaged gears or sleeves. They've taken care of me in the past - I'd trust their rebuilds.

Axles are easy. There's a write-up in the FAQ's sticky.

Just do yourself two favors. First off, before unbolting the knuckle, put a die on the axle and give it a couple whacks to break the splines loose of any possible rust. Second off, when removing it from the transmission, remember you need to use a sudden, jerking motion. It's counterintuitive, because most part removals involve steady, increasing pressure. The axle is held into the transmission with a circlip, and to get that out, you need to stick the biggest pry bar you can fit between the axle and transmission, and give it a few hard, solid whacks with a bigass hammer. Also let the fluid out first. All of the above will make your life a lot easier.