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Hi all! I'm new to the forum and cars in general, and I just recently bought my first manual car: a 1995 Civic EJ1 (EX) Coupe.
I purchased it as a project and I have many things in store for it, but I noticed that the engine isn't the normal D16Z6 VTEC that came standard on the EJ1s. The block is stamped "D15B" and the valve cover says "VTEC-E" on it. The guy I bought it from didn't know much about the car, and said it was all stock to his knowledge. I couldn't find much info on the engine, other than that its supposedly meant for the Japanese market and is pretty crappy in terms of performance. The concept of a strictly fuel efficient variant of VTEC doesn't really sound that exciting to me. Does anyone have experience with these? Are they worth building up or should I just save up and do a head swap?
You can sell the engine but if you don't have the matching ecu its kinda worthless. ecomodders love those engines. Yes its worthless to rebuild as the valve train isn't the same as the z6 so its best to find a z6 at the yard to rebuild.
A valve cover from a JDM d15B VTEC-E will fit on a JDM d15B VTEC. The exhaust manifold and intake manifold on this motor in the pic does not look like it's from the VTEC-E. To confirm either way you will need to ..... Hmm on this point I defer to my engine expert colleagues.
If it's a P28 not chipped, you can be sure it's not a vtec-e motor.
Post your ECU and that should be a pretty solid indicator of motor if you do not have a constant CEL and the CEL comes on for 2 seconds when you turn the key to the on (II) position
Out of curiousity, the solenoid at the top left corner of your valve cover picture, is there 1 or 2 of them sitting under that hose?
You can sell the engine but if you don't have the matching ecu its kinda worthless. ecomodders love those engines. Yes its worthless to rebuild as the valve train isn't the same as the z6 so its best to find a z6 at the yard to rebuild.
Originally Posted by TomCat39
If you don't want the fuel economy, then don't bother building that motor and do a swap.
That is the JDM version of the D15Z1 Honda 92 Civic VX.
100 HP high fuel economy lean burn motor.
Originally Posted by deschlong
A valve cover from a JDM d15B VTEC-E will fit on a JDM d15B VTEC. The exhaust manifold and intake manifold on this motor in the pic does not look like it's from the VTEC-E. To confirm either way you will need to ..... Hmm on this point I defer to my engine expert colleagues.
Originally Posted by tony_2018
At this point look at the valve train?? I think????
Originally Posted by TomCat39
ECU should be a good point to check.
If it's a P28 not chipped, you can be sure it's not a vtec-e motor.
Post your ECU and that should be a pretty solid indicator of motor if you do not have a constant CEL and the CEL comes on for 2 seconds when you turn the key to the on (II) position
Out of curiousity, the solenoid at the top left corner of your valve cover picture, is there 1 or 2 of them sitting under that hose?
Thanks for all your responses! Unfortunately, I wasn't able to take off the valve cover or remove the heat shield to check the casting numbers (some of the bolts on it are stuck), but I did check out the ECU, and sure enough, it's a P28.
Also, TomCat39, there's only one solenoid. So I guess that rules out the possibility of this having 3 Stage VTEC.
I'd agree with @deschlong that this may simply be a valve cover swap. The VTEC-E valvetrain is easily recognized because it has roller rockers and when VTEC is not engaged (as would be the case when not running) the cam only opens one of the intake valves on each cylinder.
On the other hand if there are two VTEC solenoids that's a JDM only thing which isn't compatible with anything sold in the USA.
I'd agree with @deschlong that this may simply be a valve cover swap. The VTEC-E valvetrain is easily recognized because it has roller rockers and when VTEC is not engaged (as would be the case when not running) the cam only opens one of the intake valves on each cylinder.
On the other hand if there are two VTEC solenoids that's a JDM only thing which isn't compatible with anything sold in the USA.
I'll try to find some time today to remove the valve cover and get a look at the internals. I'm not that knowledgeable about that type of stuff so hopefully some people on here could help me see what I'm looking at.
If it's a P28 not chipped, you can be sure it's not a vtec-e motor.
Post your ECU and that should be a pretty solid indicator of motor if you do not have a constant CEL and the CEL comes on for 2 seconds when you turn the key to the on (II) position
Out of curiousity, the solenoid at the top left corner of your valve cover picture, is there 1 or 2 of them sitting under that hose?
Originally Posted by mk378
I'd agree with @deschlong that this may simply be a valve cover swap. The VTEC-E valvetrain is easily recognized because it has roller rockers and when VTEC is not engaged (as would be the case when not running) the cam only opens one of the intake valves on each cylinder.
On the other hand if there are two VTEC solenoids that's a JDM only thing which isn't compatible with anything sold in the USA.
It's taking a little while to get my reply authorized by an admin since it included pictures, but I did peek at the ECU and it is indeed a P28. Although, I didn't open it up and see if it was chipped. Also, there's only one VTEC solenoid, so I guess it isn't 3 stage VTEC? Anyways, I'll try to get some photos of the casting numbers and head internals today.
Oh right, casting code ... good call. Shine a light in there or something? With a mirror? Taking the VC off is no biggie, just need to clean up the corners where the silicone goes and reapply, also don't overtighten the bolts! On reassembly. You're not trying to keep the Queen Mary together, there's no need to reef on them (they snap! then you're up poop creek). Check the torque values.
Forum members can i.d. the valve train, we like to solve mysteries.
Oh right, casting code ... good call. Shine a light in there or something? With a mirror? Taking the VC off is no biggie, just need to clean up the corners where the silicone goes and reapply, also don't overtighten the bolts! On reassembly. You're not trying to keep the Queen Mary together, there's no need to reef on them (they snap! then you're up poop creek). Check the torque values.
Forum members can i.d. the valve train, we like to solve mysteries.
Didn't take off the valve cover yet, but I was able to take a picture of the casting number behind a "VOID IF REMOVED" emblem. It looks like it reads P0(?)-6, but I'm not sure what the third digit is. It looks like an 8, but I could be wrong.
. The concept of a strictly fuel efficient variant of VTEC doesn't really sound that exciting to me. Does anyone have experience with these? Are they worth building up or should I just save up and do a head swap?
I've only had 7 of these cars so I'm new to this whole thing, so uhm, are they worth building into what? The only tuner car you could beat in a race would be another stock civic
You do know that even with a head swap and turbo kit your neighbor could still smoke you in his new 6 cylinder camry, or altima, or malibu, or fusion, or taurus, or accord, or sonata
Just put a huge intake on it and enjoy the sound of vtec cross over without annoying anyone with the fart can exhaust
Oh right, casting code ... good call. Shine a light in there or something? With a mirror? Taking the VC off is no biggie, just need to clean up the corners where the silicone goes and reapply, also don't overtighten the bolts! On reassembly. You're not trying to keep the Queen Mary together, there's no need to reef on them (they snap! then you're up poop creek). Check the torque values.
Forum members can i.d. the valve train, we like to solve mysteries.
Not to be more cynical than usual, the timing cover is spray painted ailver and it has an aftermarket motor mount. On a stick car that usually means its a hodgepodge of parts from a junkyard
With that new looking distributor id bet it's just a non vtec block with the zc head on it and the cleanest valve cover from the junkyard
Oh right, casting code ... good call. Shine a light in there or something? With a mirror? Taking the VC off is no biggie, just need to clean up the corners where the silicone goes and reapply, also don't overtighten the bolts! On reassembly. You're not trying to keep the Queen Mary together, there's no need to reef on them (they snap! then you're up poop creek). Check the torque values.
Forum members can i.d. the valve train, we like to solve mysteries.
For some reason my replies with pictures aren't getting posted, but I check out the casting code this morning. It looks like it says P08-6.
I've only had 7 of these cars so I'm new to this whole thing, so uhm, are they worth building into what? The only tuner car you could beat in a race would be another stock civic
You do know that even with a head swap and turbo kit your neighbor could still smoke you in his new 6 cylinder camry, or altima, or malibu, or fusion, or taurus, or accord, or sonata
Just put a huge intake on it and enjoy the sound of vtec cross over without annoying anyone with the fart can exhaust
It's just that the car is infuriatingly slow. This is my first venture into single cams, but I wasn't expecting getting up to speed on the highway to be such a challenge. It's a fun little car for sure, but I was thinking that if I wanted to get a bit more out of it I would at least have a decent platform to work with.
That said, you might have some work ahead of you to bring the car up to snuff. Standard maintenance stuff that should be done when acquiring another's ride.
Also, I can see all your pics ... but I'm a mod so
Can a non mod comment whether they see OP's pictures?
I too see them all.
P08 head casting and P28 ecu sounds like D16Z6 motor that should be in the car.
The D15B block code is the hard part. If you had a bore scope and could pull the piston cast stamp, it would identify if it's the vtec d15B or the non vtec.
Non vtec is just like the D15B7/B2 motors with flat pistons with 4 valve reliefs.
I think the vtec D15B is dished piston like the D16Z6 but not sure.
Google should present what pistons are found in the various D15B's.
I pretty sure I've seen it a few times posted over the years.
Sure, possibly worth checking but frankly I doubt anyone went through the trouble of a VTEC head swap on a non-VTEC JDM import motor ...... more likely just a drop-in replacement. But then, the valve cover is wrong, isn't it. Still, it's super unlikely as it's a wayyyy more involved process than just a vc.
Sometimes valve covers get damaged in shipping... or simply, one valve cover that the owner has is cleaner than another... and since they "fit", why not use it. It certainly appears that this is a simple valve cover swap.
03-27-2019, 09:43 PM
JDM D15B VTEC-E in 1995 Civic EJ1?
