Ok so I recently got my Ok on the road, been driving it about 3 weeks now. I converted to a y8 intake manifold
just blocked off the holes for the iacv with an aluminum plate and kept the iacv on the y7 throttle body.

any who it started bogging down real bad when driving. cruising at any rpm any gear if you
only press the gas in anywhere between fully closed and wot it'll randomly bog down and want to
croke. and when I come to a stop it'll rev at 2k rpm then I hit the gas sometimes it'll rev up to 3k idle and
I have to keep trying and it'll eventually go down to around 1k.

I tried 3 diff iacvs, checked for vac leaks, cleaned all my iacvs, Throttle bodies, cleaned injectors and fuel rail,
new plugs, new wires, new fuel filter, and dizzy is newer one from junkyard and in great shape.

also it acted like this before I did the y8 IM swap just not as bad. tps sensor reads .50 at closed and sometimes 4.35-4.45 at wot ( Ik its supposed to be 4.5 but I didn't think it would cause this since it has no flat spots in it.

any ideas? sometimes it drives for days with no problems. sometimes I have to drive WOT or close to it all day long.

 

may not be the whole cause but did you bleed the coolant sys properly after trying all those IACV's. you've introduced air every time you take it off.

 

I've had this kind of poor performance in 2 occasions so far: In one the guy I bought the car from had the tps plug on the map sensor and map on tps.
The other the ecu went bad.

 

yeah I bled the system every time. and I'm 100% all the plugs are in the correct places (made that mistake too many times lol learned the hard way)

it did have a bad p2e manual ecu the 4th injector wasn't getting any power. I'm using a p2e auto now. but I had several ppl tell me that would work fine n just throw auto tranny cels

 

.5 of a volt makes a huge difference adjust it properly and see how it runs

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/diy-how-calibrating-voltage-your-tps-sensor-2947986/

 

at most its off 0.15 volts and its only @ WOT I just figured it would run lean at WOT. I'll order a new tps tho or see if I've got another laying around. I already tried adjusting it the highest I could get with .5 being closed was 4.43v @WOT

also I'll run the codes and see if any new ones are popping up. also I'm going to check the iacv socket voltages and map voltages to rule everything up to those out.

thanks for the help again and also thanks ahead of time for any more

 

you adjust wot first then turn the throttle stop screw for cot

If you have another throttle body take its tps and try

 

Just curious what year Civic did your intake manifold come off of? Do you have any check engine lights? You also need to get the correct ECU.

 

alright I'll try that thanks lizard. I read the link you posted and I'm gonna do all of that as soon as it stops raining.

no idea what year the IM came off of. the guy who had the car before me had an assload of money, took the y8 IM and put a brand new y7 IM on it. its a motor with low miles out of a junkyard. very clean, runs real smooth when it doesn't act like this.
and can you give me more to go on why to get the p2e manual ecu. I was told the auto ecu will just run auto cels. I'm tight on cash so I don't want to run out and get one unless its absolutely necessary. I was going to wait till I can get a y8 head and get the 5spd ecu for it.

 

went on to adjusting tps to 4.5 @WOT I had to shave a good bit off of the rotor on the side to accomplish that (what it said to do in the link). and it was on 0.48 closed perfect what the link recommended. then I realized the allen key stopper was missing. I'll let u know how it drives but in your guys opinion do I just run it like that or put one on and grind even more off of that rotor.

I'd prefer to grind the least amount possible so I was thinking it'd b better to run it as is.

 

Post a picture of the manifold and pull the codes and post them.

 

sadly I cannot upload pics from my phone. but its a 96-98 y8 intake manifold. but I have the iacv holes blocked off on the intake and I use the iacv on the throttle body. I'll upload pics as soon as I can tho. might be a day or 2

the only codes are p1748, p1758 and p0700 which I'm pretty sure are all auto tranny codes.

it just acts like its not getting air and starts to bogg down like its misfiring and sometimes backfires if u let it do it long enough.

 

sry for two posts in a tow just wanted to add I'm going to try my extra map sensors and fuel pressure regulators see if they make any difference

 

Have you checked for possible fuel delivery issues? E.g., clogged fuel filter, failing fuel pump, etc. ?

 

just put a new fuel filter in it, fuel pump seems to be fine. it dosent do it all the time only when you are holding it at like 20% throttle and you have to push it to the floor and itll accelerate fine. and it only does it at random times.

im gunna swap out the fuel pressure regulator and see if that helps. my other map sensor didnt help at all either.

i drove over a friends to upload the pic of the intake manifold. ill see if i have a better pic of it

and out of curiousity could this be a malfunction of some type of load detector?

 

another pic

 

Sorry can't tell from the pic but where does that top large vacuum like hook to?

 

pcv valve

 

so i decided to just unplug the primary o2 sensor before i went for a drive and it drove alot smoother didnt have the problem at all. gunna leave it unplugged for a day or 2 just to make sure it wasnt some crazy coincidence

 

What's with the mini filter? Where did you get it? I'm new to the honda scene.

 

it's called a "breather" and those can be gotten on ebay for cheap

 

got it at advanced for like 7$

 

so I drove at least 50miles and the problems I had no longer exist. all I did was unplug the primary o2 sensor. the wires were hacked up on it but I'm pretty sure they're all connected right. not to mention no cels were being thrown besides auto tranny ones.

so do I blame the o2 sensor or maybe something that relays on the o2 readings.