Afternoon Honda-Tech,

My father has a 1997 GSR with close to 300K on the clock. It has a transmission going off slowly and we began discussing options to give this car 5-10 more years of life (The body is great) as my dad passes the car to me (and buys his last car). I've already got a DD and track car, but this car is special to me and I'd like to make it my DD over the next couple of years (slow project).

Goals:
Daily Driven 30+ MPG on 93
Able to be limped around on 91 (car MIGHT go to cali)
70K life after rebuild (around 5 years DD mileage)
HPDE ready (for when I dont wanna take the Miata)
As close to 200whp as possible on 93.
Hondata S300 (or similar) to have it tuned flawlessly (full dyno and street tune by phearable.net out of Orlando/Tampa, i never skimp on ECU tuning)

Given these goals, I'm seeing a couple of options and the boltons seem the same for both (comptech icebox, hytech header and 2.5 all the way back [maybe SMSP full system?], hondata s300, skunk 2 intake manifold, light flywheel, injectors of some kind, carsound cat)

1. Full Type-R swap from Hmotorsonline. Seems easy, but even with their quality reputation it feels like I'm rolling the dice a bit, but it ALSO fixes the transmission problem and gains LSD for around 5K (4500 for swap, 500 misc)

2. Rebuild the B18C1 and buy a separate Type R Tranny. I'd feel better because I have a solid honda engine builder in Tampa and I know the parts are new (aka 0 miles). However im unsure as to what I need to get to 200whp and meet all the goals. I'm also unsure of the cost outside of the transmission (1500). Is this a better option? Could I tackle this myself? I've rebuilt an all stock L28 and KA24DE before, but I'm unsure I have the skill to properly balance the engine to handle the RPMs necessary for 200whp. As for parts, as best as I can tell by searching I'd need the following (at least).

1. B18C1 block and head
2. JDM ITR Pistons
3. Some kind of cam (i see Skunk 2 pro alot) and supporting headwork
4. ARP Rod Bolts
5. ITR Rods

There's plenty of time for me to do the work myself if necessary but I could also pay to outsource it if the "best" balancing and blueprinting are needed to meet goals.

Have at it Honda-Tech, thanks in advance. Also, if 200whp is totally unrealistic, let me down early and I can reset for like... 180whp or whatever you feel is realistic for a similar cost as the full ITR swap.

 

why not replace worn out parts in this tranny?
if you gonna drive it daily and interstate 4000rpm freeway cruise for few hours is gonna be rough.

 

I could. Maybe I just make gears 1-4 shorter and put in a tall 5th? I could also do stock gearing. I just figured the ITR tranny would be similar cost to the rebuild + buying an LSD.

 

Anyone else have some ideas about the engine side? not the tranny?

 

you can get carbon synchros and lsd. with itr final gear.
i mean if you want shorter gears get itr if you like the gearing then rebuild and get LSD diff.

if its gonna be your daily driver i personally prefer gsr tranny over ITR/b16 gearing

http://www.zealautowerks.com/transcalc.php

compare the 2 side by side with the tire size that you gonna use to see which will work better for you.
the difference in gearing is 2nd 3rd and final drive between gsr and itr.

a jdm itr swap would be simple and quickest route with the right boltons and a tune it can make really close to 200WHP.
if you want to get dirty and build an engine then just use the gsr and rebuild it.

 

Thanks for the help, we've decided (with help from the forum and phearable.net) to go with a 96-97 ITR Swap and boltons along with an ECU Tune (exact method yet to be decided). Sounds like hmotorsonline will have another customer soon!

 

good choice I wish I went this route I instead bought a built gsr from a friend that fail on me shortly after I got it running

 

i have a built gsr for sale if you want another try. mine is runs like a champ
vtec CRAAACKS hard, engine pulls hard like new. smoke everyone oh the street 10000 dolars. BALLER PARTS!!!


any reason why 96 itr swap not 2001?

 

cheaper prob

 

and that's ok I always had a rule not to buy someone else build and I broke my rule because it was a buddy of mine now I will enforce my rule even harder id rather build my own

 

That's kind of the reason I ended up piecing my build and did it from scratch for the most part to know what's in it and how it was put together..not some questionable build off the street.. I'd say if daily driver is your main goal..I would def take the ITR swap w/ bolt-ons...much more OEM reliable, still has plenty of room to grow in the future should you decide to change up your plans.. it will also get you close to your power goals depending on the supporting mods to go with the motor..also much less of a headache to swap the full itr then assemble/re-assemble build the gsr ..

 

4k on the highway that's not under load is FINE. Besides, you'll need the better accleration rate on the circuit for your HPDE events anyway. A tall 5th throws you completely out of the powerband you're trying to make. (Ask me how I know already.. ) Going to acclerate from 3-4 is fine, 4-5 acts as though the brakes were applied as it goes to NOTHING. You can tryi for 185-200whp on 93 octane (it can be done, but takes a bit more investment on the cylinder head side than the swap alone.) so that shouldn't be much of an issue.