B18C1 im wondering which tdc marks are more important on the cam gears ? the "UPs" or the little lines on the side of the gears. i've got the bottom at tdc but the head was milled(not sure by how much) but it's enough to throw off the side marks. I know adjustible gears would be the soloution but i need the money for other things atm. Have been driving the car for a week like this it's just fine. can post pic of amout of offset between lines it's about 1 tooth.

 

This is normal when using heads and blocks that have had material removed from them (machining/servicing). Your only way to confirm how much was removed would be taking measurements of heights and comparing those to the stock values found within the service manual.

Assuming the cams are stock (B16,B18C,B18CR etc.) and you don't face a smog inspection anytime soon you should be fine, although in the future you would be probably finding yourself wanting to throw on some adj cam gears and find the correct setting while degreeing your cams.

If they are aftermarket non-Honda cams I would suggest you degree the cams whether material has been removed from head or block or not using the manufactures recommended values/centerlines.

 

have some tuner 2's waiting around for later install. But just wanted to make sure this was normal with a milled head. but just go by the "UP" marks vs the inside lines on the side of the gears.

 

There are two lines per gear, these lines must line up with the top deck of the cylinder head where the valve cover mates to it.
the two from each cam gear should be lined up with each other straight, and line up with the top deck, and the two outer lines on each gear should line up with the deck.

Just get your head low in front of the gears so you can see the deck

When this is done the arrows are pointing slightly at an angle parallel to each other.

To answer your question the lines are the most important to line up with the top deck, and straight.

When the belt is properly set bring the motor to TDC again and line up those lines again and see how far the white mark on the crank pulley is away from the TDC indicator on the oil pump or plastics.

Ive seen anything from 1/16 inch to 3/16 inch

 

Get gears when you plan on dumping these in and just have your tuner adj them for max power, degree them in if you don't or cant tune.
And try not to drive until tuned.

 

Always use the horizontal marks on the cam gears... the "UP" icons are very general and only indicate the differentiation between "in time" and 180' out.

With a milled head/block, set your cam gears with all marks in a straight horizontal line and the crank with the #1 piston at TDC. The TDC mark on the crank pulley will be just to the left (between 1/16" and 3/16" typically) of the pointer on the lower timing cover.

As stated above, adjustable cam gears should be used to properly correct this issue for maximum performance.

 

Thanks I'm going to re-set the belt lining the side marks with the deck(had that orginaly but seemed odd) bottom will be at TDC. And ya tha't why im waiting to put them in till i can spare some for the gear/get them tuned(apparently it's another hour to set/tune them)

 

ok re-adjusted the timing belt over the cams. there's viritualy not diff/angle in the angle of the "up" arrows. But while I was doing this I had the spark plugs left in(left my spk socket at home). And whist I was turning the engine over by hand I head a "hissing noise"!!!. I hope this isn't my compression "leaking away". my last test(3 months ago) was 235-240 across all 4cyl car still feels just as strong. there is a slight oil leak on the pass side(where the niose is coming from) so maybe this is what im hearing ?. The car sounds ok at idle(runs rich so not perfect).

 

anyone ? this hissing nosie kinda worries me

 

Your fighting against compression. The engine will always do that. The air has to go somewhere. It is exiting the head.