I've got a poorman's type R setup with a .028" mill off of the block, wondering if i need to run a cam timing other than stock, i've heard that a b16 with .030" off the head should run a half degree (advance?) to compensate. any related info would be helpful. TIA

 

Did a little search for ya. I needed to know also.

Posted by Sleeper:
"Milling the head or decking the block decreases the distance between the cams and crank. The timing belt stays the same length, so for every .012" you remove, cam timing is retarded 1 degree. Advance accordingly to get back to true zero."

Hopefully someone can verify this. I have researched it before and this sounds right to me.

If this is correct than you need to advance your cam gears by 2.33 degrees.

 

Hrm, I would have though that milling is a function of how much slack your tensioner can compensate for....
-PHiZ

 

The cam tensioner takes up the slack but then it rolls your cam gears back too so you need to compensate by advancing the cams back to zero. You will see when you set your crank at TDC that your cam gears will be retarded in more ways than one. haha

 

i don't know why i couldn't find that when i searched, but thanx.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SC94DB8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did a little search for ya. I needed to know also.

Posted by Sleeper:
"Milling the head or decking the block decreases the distance between the cams and crank. The timing belt stays the same length, so for every .012" you remove, cam timing is retarded 1 degree. Advance accordingly to get back to true zero."

Hopefully someone can verify this. I have researched it before and this sounds right to me.

If this is correct than you need to advance your cam gears by 2.33 degrees.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just to verify, this fix applies to the cam gears, not the distributor, correct?

 

Yeah, but is this trick to bring the timing back to the proper 16` BTDC, or is it a hack to "not ping" cause you've bumped your compression...
-PHiZ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just to verify, this fix applies to the cam gears, not the distributor, correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Once the cams are dialed in properly, which should be done with a cam degree wheel and a dial indicator, you should go back and set timing like normal since it moves with the cam.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just to verify, this fix applies to the cam gears, not the distributor, correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>You first set the cam timing on the gears, then the ignition timing via the distributer; So in this case for a head milled .028", I'd advance cam timing approximately 2 degrees, then reset my ignition timing back to 16 degrees.

 

you set both cams 2.3 degrees advanced right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cam tensioner takes up the slack but then it rolls your cam gears back too so you need to compensate by advancing the cams back to zero. You will see when you set your crank at TDC that your cam gears will be retarded in more ways than one. haha</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok so if the cam gears are retarded and advancing the 1 for every .012" brings them back to zero, that sill would not have any effect on the postition of the marks on the gears right? so if you have your cams advanced 2.3 degrees you'l still be looking at a seemingly misaligned belt, am i wrong, if not is there a way to fix it or do you just live with it.

 

So, are those of us who have yet to purchase adjustable cam gears, well, screwed?

 

i don't think you have too much to worry about since the timing is retarded not advanced