crazyhouse2011

So I was looking around my engine bay with a flashlight tonight in search of the wire harness for the fan (the one that I can short out with a wire to make it always run with the ignition in the ON position). It seems to be tucked into a tight spot between the radiator and the radiator overflow container (I think that's what it is, it's a white container mounted behind the radiator and on the left side, with a hose at the top that runs to the radiator cap). I wanna short this **** out with a wire to see if my fan works. I don't wanna short out this wire harness though because I am not 100 percent sure it's the right one. I followed the wire, and it runs from the fan motor to the harness, so I know that, and from the harness towards about 3 inches from the fuse box, where I lose sight of the wire. Is this the right one?

Also, is that white container the overflow container? And how do I fill the radiator with coolant? Do I just pour it in directly to the radiator? The reason why I am asking such dumb questions is because my friend has a 1988 Ford Escort and you are supposed to add coolant by filling up the overflow container, but I think it's called a resevoir.

Thanks for your patience H-T.

GnrlKll

A new thread really isn't needed. Add fluid to the radiator itself when the vehicle is cold. Also top off the coolant overflow.

As per jumping the radiator fan. You pull the overflow jug up and out of the way. then unplug the radiator fan connector. run two wires, one from negative battery terminal, the other from the positive terminal, and touch the prongs on the fan end of the connector. if the fan kicks on, the motor is good.

crazyhouse2011

I don't wanna mess with wiring with the battery. I just wanna ghetto rig it for a few seconds and turn the ignition to ON and see if she spins. I don't have long enough wires (in fact I really have NO wires) to wire the fan to the battery. And I'm now even more confused. So I'm guessing this connector ISN'T the one I need to short out to make the fan constantly run with the ignition on?

And also, how exactly do I fill the overflow container? The lid looking thingy doesn't come off! I've tried twisting and pulling and it doesn't budge. And I'm pretty sure you only fill up one or the other, not both.

GnrlKll

Thats really the first step in the process to make sure the fan works. The next on in the line would be to unplug the radiator fan switch connector at the motor. Follow the lower radiator hose up to where it meets the back of the engine. There is a connector that runs to there. Unplug it, turn the key to II, jump the connector on the wiring end with a paper clip. If you hear a clicking noise coming from the fuse box and your fan kicks on, motor and relay are both good.

Im telling you read through my thread. I just had the same problem and it ended up being the radiator fan switch. That was after replacing a cracked radiator, coolant flush, new thermostat, bled coolant for half an hour, and the radiator fan would not run. Bought the radiator fan switch, installed, and the fan kicked on within 10 minutes.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/98-civic-ex-cooling-fan-doesnt-come-3124882/

crazyhouse2011

I read through your thread buddy. I am not good at visualizing **** so I usually try to get photos. If you noticed, my threads where I do how-to instructions I will post LOADS of pictures so the OP doesn't have a trace of confusion. Just a courtesy of mine....

GnrlKll

Brb i'll walk outside and pop a couple pics with my phone.

GnrlKll

Nevermind. Walked outside, took a few pics in the dark, realizing how crappy they turned out then my battery died. Will get decent pics in the AM...

crazyhouse2011

Thanks partner. It's dark here too in Illinois.

GnrlKll

How bout that snow.. yeaa well I did have the car in the garage working on it the past couple days. And i shouldve taken pics when I ran threw all that testing anyhow.

But if i do remember correctly there is only one sensor that threads down into the thermostat housing which is the radiator fan switch. thats what you're looking for. almost directly below the throttle body.

crazyhouse2011

**** snow unless it's 2 feet deep and causes fatal car accidents for people I don't like and/or McDonald's customers that I have to put up with every day. So yeah...

Wdpfreak145

Listen man you have already been given solid instructions here. There is a plug, under the coolant reservoir. The reservoir attaches behind the headlight. Pull the hose off, pull the reservoir up, and set it aside. Find the connector. It's kind of hard to miss. Disconnect it. Run one wire from the positive terminal to a plug in the connector that leads to the fan, then do the same with the negative in the other terminal. If the fan works, it will kick on. If you switch the wires around, the fan should switch directions.

If it doesn't work, your fan is toast. Forget about testing it with the ignition and all that other stuff. Do this, and rule out the fan as a culprit for whatever cooling/overheating issues your suffering from.

crazyhouse2011

CHILLAX bro, we got everything covered here. Please dispense with the rudeness.

GnrlKll

Heres the radiator fan connector right at the radiator. You would run two wires from the two battery terminals to this.



Far out view of the radiator fan switch



Slightly closer view, where my index finger is



And essentially you are looking for this. I have a 98 EX with a D16y8. Your application may be slightly different. Right where my finger is. Mine is shiny and brand new because I had to replace it as it wasnt running my radiator fan. Unplug the plastic connector from the metal looking bolt. It may take slight pressure. Be careful not to break anything. Then turn your key to On (II) position, and then jump the plastic connector terminals with a paperclip or small piece of wire. If you hear a clicking noise from your underhood fusebox and the radiator fan kicks on and spins, you'll know because its not quiet. Your fan and relay work.

If the relay works, you could have a bad radiator fan switch like I did. If the fan doesnt kick on your relay might be bad.

GnrlKll

Just saying, if RonJ were to reply, he'd have you doing the same things more or less. He'd also have you bleed the cooling system. If you need more help let me know.

crazyhouse2011

Thanks boy.

crazyhouse2011

Thanks man! I found that same plug, used my OBD1 wire to short it out, turned the ignition ON and it fired right up! Maybe it's just too cold outside for it to work.

GnrlKll

Woah woah, back up. Back way up. You tested the radiator fan switch connector correct? If you start the car and let it warm up and idle for approx 15-30 minutes does the radiator fan ever come on??

Mine did not ever come on. Even after a proper coolant bleed. If that is the case for you as well, your radiator fan switch is more than likely toast and not working. I had to replace mine. AND IT WAS ONLY 8-15 DEGREES OUTSIDE. After replacing that switch, radiator fan kicked on 3 times within 20 minutes. Again, after proper bleeding procedures.

crazyhouse2011

Can you take a picture (like you did above) to show me where the muhfuggin coolant gauge sensor is? I believe it is this:




Yeah... so I remember a while back I unplugged the plastic harness the arrow is pointing to and shorted it out (following instructions from here on H-T) and turned the ignition on, and the coolant gauge moved up towards the top, so I shut it off before it did. So basically that test was to rule out a faulty gauge. (Incase you haven't figured it out yet, my coolant gauge isn't working.) Should I replace the male connector that the female harness is connected to? I believe this piece is called the COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR or some crap along those lines.

Thanks y'alls...

GnrlKll

which motor do you have?

crazyhouse2011

D16Z6

GnrlKll

Ahh, okay. I have a y8. So im not sure if everything is going to be the same. more or less I would think so.

Engine Coolant Sending Unit, which is the single wire post under the distributor cap that goes directly to the temp gauge on the dash.

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, also under the distributer cap, reports the coolant temperature to the ECU. The ECU uses this to find out if the engine is cold in which case it adds more fuel so the engine can warm up faster. The ECT sensors is also used to adjust spark, EGR function, open/closed loop feedback, idle speed and so on.

crazyhouse2011

The only thing different about our engines are the valvetrains, if I followed the engine codes correctly. I'm probably gonna replace the engine coolant sending unit.

crazyhouse2011

Okay... so today I installed a new coolant temperature sending unit and the gauge works fine. Excellent! Now I can monitor my engine a little better.