I have a 96 dx automatic that I'm swapping out the d16 for b18c1 and i have everything ready to be pulled except the shift linkage from the tranny. I've read a bunch of different people having the same issue but nothing that was too clear.

I was thinking about torching it off and dealing with it later because wouldn't I need the b series shift linkage anyway so wouldn't it not be that big of a deal? Let me know cuz I'd rather not make a big mistake

Thanks

 

Are you having a hard time removing the spring pin/roll pin (aka bitch pin)?

There is a tool that presses it out, but a correct size punch and a BF hammer and a squirt of penetrating fluid should do the trick.


I guess if you don't care about the linkage, cut it and forget it. You won't need either rod for the B18C tranny.


EDIT: Nevermind I missed that this was an automatic

 

There's a little aluminum cover on the bottom of the transmission held in with 2 bolts IIRC, remove that and then there's a 10mm bolt with a lock tab up against it, bend that back and remove the bolt, then the cable will come off.

I'm assuming you're swapping in a manual B-series transmission, if so it really doesn't matter how you remove that cable since you wont be reusing it anyway.

 

No I'm using an auto tranny but I'd still be needing a new one right? Or at least it won't be a big deal to get a new one?

 

An automatic GS-R transmission does not fit in that car without cutting and notching the frame rail on the passenger's side, you have to fab up mounts for it, and it's a royal pain in the *** to get it wired up so it shifts right with no blinking D4 light. It also will not pass emissions testing if that's a concern for you. I hope you knew all this when you started.

You might actually be able to reuse that cable, but I'm not totally sure.

 

I planed on puting in an LS tranny. But if I was swapping a gsr tranny in an ex or ek would I have the same issue with cutting and notching?

What are the differences why would I have to do that? People do swaps and I don't hear about that problem

 

You'll have the same issues with an LS tranny. An M24A OBD1 B16A tranny might clear or be close enough to bang the frame rail, but there's absolutely no way to control it with the ECU/TCU setup the GS-R uses.

You never hear about it because no one keeps an automatic when they do a swap. It's significantly easier and cheaper to just swap in a manual and use stock mounts.

See this excellent example of why this is such a bad idea here:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/honda-gsr-swap-getting-pita-2364737/

 

Well thanks a lot for the info man, glad I got a chance to read this before I got too deep in buying parts. I have the engine and a 96-98 ex wire harness but now il be making the ness. Plans for the manual swap. Again thanks for the info!

Also what are the differences between an auto ex wire harness and manual ex harness?

 

Np dude. There's a pretty good guide on the auto to manual end of this swap in the FAQs sticked at the top of this section. If you're already doing an engine swap it really doesn't add a whole lot to it anyway. Installing the pedals clutch line and doing a little extra wiring is about the only real extra work you wouldn't already be doing. Btw, make sure you use '96 - '00 civic pedals and clutch line, that's important.

3 wire vs 2 wire IACV. Also there's some rewiring concerning backup lights IIRC.

 

And would I have issues dropping a manual gsr tranny in?

 

No, it's a 100% bolt in affair using stock Honda mounts. You will need the rear bracket from a '99 - '00 Civic Si, upper transmission bracket from any '96 - '00 5 speed civic and the front torque mount bracket can come from any '94 - '01 Integra/'99 - '00 Civic Si or '94 - '97 Del Sol VTEC. and rubber mounts from any '96 - '00 5 speed civic (the automatic rubber mounts will work in a pinch but they're not as strong) If you're buying them new buy for a '99 - '00 Si, they're a bit stronger than the D-series rubber mounts IIRC)

 

Yeah I knew the amount of work for the auto to manual and it was my original idea but my wife refused to drive stick but now I'm gonna have to tell her tough **** lol

Also for the wire concern should I just sell my harness and get the manual or do it my self

 

It's easier if you can get the manual harness. But I mean it's not like it's a ridiculous amount of work.

 

Yeah I had the mounts already in mind on where to get them but that is a lot more detailed again much thanks lol but I just wanted to confirm that it would be able to be dropped in with no Clearance issues.

Sorry to bombard you with questions lol