Hondata/ red light/ boost spike question
Hi guys, im sorry if this isnt the right area to post. Its been about 4 years since i've been on Honda Tech, please re-direct me if needed..
So Im currently running a fully built GSR in my eg, Precision 6262 turbo, top mount mani, HKS 50mm WG 14lb spring, Hondata S300, AEM Tru Boost w/ boost solenoid...
My issue is that just last week my car started boost spiking 6lbs.. im tuned on 14psi, boost cut at 20psi...
The story: car was running fine, took it out for a drive, did a freeway pull and blew a coupler.. Fixed the coupler, drove it again, went to hit boost and it hit 20psi (boost cut) and the light on the s300 goes to red.. I've been trying to diagnose the issue myself but i cant figure it out.. i've been keeping track of when the light turns red, car runs totally normal and boosts fine but as soon as my boost gauge reads boost the light turns red.. then after a couple minutes of normal driving it goes green again..
No CEL light on cluster...
Things i've checked..
exhaust leaks
WG vacuum lines
boost gauge setting
tru boost solenoid
Any Ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
So Im currently running a fully built GSR in my eg, Precision 6262 turbo, top mount mani, HKS 50mm WG 14lb spring, Hondata S300, AEM Tru Boost w/ boost solenoid...
My issue is that just last week my car started boost spiking 6lbs.. im tuned on 14psi, boost cut at 20psi...
The story: car was running fine, took it out for a drive, did a freeway pull and blew a coupler.. Fixed the coupler, drove it again, went to hit boost and it hit 20psi (boost cut) and the light on the s300 goes to red.. I've been trying to diagnose the issue myself but i cant figure it out.. i've been keeping track of when the light turns red, car runs totally normal and boosts fine but as soon as my boost gauge reads boost the light turns red.. then after a couple minutes of normal driving it goes green again..
No CEL light on cluster...Things i've checked..
exhaust leaks
WG vacuum lines
boost gauge setting
tru boost solenoid
Any Ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
So what i found was a little 10mm nut inside the wastegate diaphram that backed all the way out and was just bouncing around in there leaving the wastegate valve just doing whatever it wanted since it wasnt help where it should have been... BUT that took care of my spiking all the way to boost cut. Now im still experiencing some spiking, i was tuned at 14psi and im still hitting 20.5psi. I also noticed that my LED on my s300 turns red under boost then back to green when cruising, only problem is that idk how to check the red light. And idk if s300 stores any data for me to find out.. anybody know s300 well enough to have any suggestions for me?
I'd love to answer that question but as of now i have no idea.. I dont have a way to plug my s300 into my laptop at this time, but ill try to maybe this weekend. How would that datalogging affect my boost? Im new to the Hondata stuff
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well at first i was spiking really hard all the way to 23psi (boost cut). well come to find out that the nut holding the wastegate valve backed off, so i fixed that and it stopped hitting boost cut. currently im still spiking to 21psi and the red light on s300 is coming on during boost then turns off after i let off and cruise... I started to notice that im slowly leaning out when im at 21psi, so my theory is that since my car was tuned at 14psi my motor isnt getting enough fuel at the 21psi mark, then the s300 notices the fuel leaning out and turns the red light on, makes sence right? Now i also have the AEM tru boost w/solenoid, im not sure how to adjust boost pressure on it. Maybe something somehow got adjusted? can somebody give me a breakdown on how to use the boost settings on it?
try changing ur wastegate spring to an 8psi spring...add a boost by gear option and solenoid. anything over the amount of boost ur car was tuned for u want to make sure its rich so u can avoid leaning out and blowing ur motor..I rather have too much fuel than not enough
I agree with that but my dilemma is that the car ran just fine before and never had a problem, so im trying to get it back to that point without having to add a boost by gear option or changing the wastegate spring.. BUT i did make some progress today, i decided to totally eliminate the tru boost solenoid. I took out the solenoid, ran a vacuum line from the compressor housing straight to the side port of the wastegate then took it for a drive. I did a long 4th gear pull then checked my peak boost number. Sure as **** it was right where it should have been. I hit 14.4psi... right where i should be... So im down to 2 theories of what was causing my spiking..
-Either my solenoid is bad (i checked it according to this ->
. even though my solenoid was passing air through both ports im unsure of if it was enough air...)
-OR my tru boost gauge settings got messed up somehow and is not telling the solenoid what to do...
I also noticed that when my solenoid was hooked up and the gauge was in the "off" setting it was spiking when it should have been running wastegate pressure..
UGH
-Either my solenoid is bad (i checked it according to this ->
-OR my tru boost gauge settings got messed up somehow and is not telling the solenoid what to do...
I also noticed that when my solenoid was hooked up and the gauge was in the "off" setting it was spiking when it should have been running wastegate pressure..
UGH
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I figured it out on my own...
