P0108 - MAP High Voltage - Boost=<5lb
1.) So I 'hear":
stock map sensor handles 1.7bar - 1 bar for vacuum = .7 = ~12-13lbs max
If the stock map sensor can "see" up to even 9lbs of boost without throwing a cel, what could make my 98 integra running open wastegate cause my car to throw a P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input code?
Since the car is in limp mode the highest I can even get boost to go is 5lbs.
I have tried resetting the code, but when I drive it goes right back on (never paid enough attention to see how long or if it isnt time dependant and is actually dependent, as i would assume, on me pushing the pressure past what the MAP sensor is comfortable seeing when I accelerate.
I was thinking maybe the car when reving normally and able to go past 3k rpm it is going up to much higher boost, but I am pretty sure even when I reset it it will not go past 3k and is running limp still and the light comes back on and i dont have the chance really to drive without creating boost and keeping the cel from being thrown.
2.) Also of interest, i find it strange that i am able to push down the accelerator further when i am at the limp mode max of 3k-3.5k rpm, that the rpms stay around the same spot but my boost gauge will respond and boost will go up and drop down as I get on the gas more or less, past the max rpm threshold. shouldnt boost and rpms be going in synch to eachohter and one be driven by the other? how could me pushing the pedal more cause boost to increase but not my rpm's!?
Thank you for taking the time out of your busy day to answer my questions, it is genuinely appreciated.
stock map sensor handles 1.7bar - 1 bar for vacuum = .7 = ~12-13lbs max
If the stock map sensor can "see" up to even 9lbs of boost without throwing a cel, what could make my 98 integra running open wastegate cause my car to throw a P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input code?
Since the car is in limp mode the highest I can even get boost to go is 5lbs.
I have tried resetting the code, but when I drive it goes right back on (never paid enough attention to see how long or if it isnt time dependant and is actually dependent, as i would assume, on me pushing the pressure past what the MAP sensor is comfortable seeing when I accelerate.
I was thinking maybe the car when reving normally and able to go past 3k rpm it is going up to much higher boost, but I am pretty sure even when I reset it it will not go past 3k and is running limp still and the light comes back on and i dont have the chance really to drive without creating boost and keeping the cel from being thrown.
2.) Also of interest, i find it strange that i am able to push down the accelerator further when i am at the limp mode max of 3k-3.5k rpm, that the rpms stay around the same spot but my boost gauge will respond and boost will go up and drop down as I get on the gas more or less, past the max rpm threshold. shouldnt boost and rpms be going in synch to eachohter and one be driven by the other? how could me pushing the pedal more cause boost to increase but not my rpm's!?
Thank you for taking the time out of your busy day to answer my questions, it is genuinely appreciated.
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This is because you ARE GOING TO BLOW YOUR ENGINE by not having a tune. There are many ways to fake out the OBD-2 by kicking it old school with a FMU, AFC hack, MAP bleeds, and a few other tricks... Your boost is going up and down most likely because you are breaking up due to running super lean. Boost is more reliant on load than RPM. You could be at 8k RPM and have vacuum. Either way I suggest you sell your car and purchase something stock. You are in WAY over your head.
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Because the ecu keeps the rpm at a certain limit, doesn't prevent you from adding load and making pressure
The stock map can only see 11psi, no more... then you get codes
What sort of tuning/engine management are you using? If its a stock ECU then it can't see any positive pressure, not even 1psi
The stock map can only see 11psi, no more... then you get codes
What sort of tuning/engine management are you using? If its a stock ECU then it can't see any positive pressure, not even 1psi
If it isnt apparent already, its because you have no tuning software on your car that allows the computer to understand boost or is it tuned to give the car extra fuel for all the mods you have now. While your map sensor can read up to 11psi, your computer CANNOT. The computer can measure up to 1psi before it throws the code.
first of all the boost is at like 6lbs not close to 11.
im highly doubt im running lean and have had zero effects to make me think so.
the rpm's are stopping at a certain point due to being in limp mode, i just found it weird the more i got on the gas pedal the more it sounded like it was revving/accelerating more and boost continued to go up as I pressed the pedal.
boost is not "going up and down" erraticaly, randomly, or inappropriately whatsoever.
if i get rid of the limp mode and rpms continue going up as they should instead of stopping at 3500 i wont even have to ponder why this is, and i should be taking care of this anyway. sadly i asked for help on which missing link type i would need for my model since different sites post different things, but ill just email blox and see what they say.
this is the second post i made regarding my setup and clearly everyone on this forum just spews hate if you dont have a chipped ecu. if you have an fmu and are doing this in a way others hate on i guess you can forget about all assistance at honda-tech. lesson learned i wont post here anymore about my turbo issues. ill never understand how people can't just accept that people want to do something differently when they know there is a better way and just either answer their questions or don't.
im highly doubt im running lean and have had zero effects to make me think so.
the rpm's are stopping at a certain point due to being in limp mode, i just found it weird the more i got on the gas pedal the more it sounded like it was revving/accelerating more and boost continued to go up as I pressed the pedal.
boost is not "going up and down" erraticaly, randomly, or inappropriately whatsoever.
if i get rid of the limp mode and rpms continue going up as they should instead of stopping at 3500 i wont even have to ponder why this is, and i should be taking care of this anyway. sadly i asked for help on which missing link type i would need for my model since different sites post different things, but ill just email blox and see what they say.
this is the second post i made regarding my setup and clearly everyone on this forum just spews hate if you dont have a chipped ecu. if you have an fmu and are doing this in a way others hate on i guess you can forget about all assistance at honda-tech. lesson learned i wont post here anymore about my turbo issues. ill never understand how people can't just accept that people want to do something differently when they know there is a better way and just either answer their questions or don't.
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An FMU and aquarium check valves as I remember you asking about. Really?
I think if you just listed your setup off the bat and came clean about what you were trying to do then there might have not been all this venom being spit.
But honestly, if we see a person crossing the street and is about to get hit by a bus then we're obligated, as good citizens, to at least warn you. If you want to keep walking then that's up to you.
Try homemdeturbo.com. It's more your speed. Junkyard builds and everything.
I think if you just listed your setup off the bat and came clean about what you were trying to do then there might have not been all this venom being spit.
But honestly, if we see a person crossing the street and is about to get hit by a bus then we're obligated, as good citizens, to at least warn you. If you want to keep walking then that's up to you.
Try homemdeturbo.com. It's more your speed. Junkyard builds and everything.
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