Cold Air Intake Box for a turbo
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Built this originally to include in a Heat Management Thread that I was doing and decided to post it in this section, as I'm happy with the way it came out. Now I am not a professional fabricator or anything like that so don't don't try to kill me. I just think that it may be usefull to some people that are thinking of doing something like this. The box draws in cold air through the existing hole in the frame rail and then out to my fog light housing.

























Hope you guys like it!!

























Hope you guys like it!!
Last edited by SRDFTITAN; Feb 9, 2013 at 07:37 PM.
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Maybe I'm missing something but where are you taking in cold air? As the matter of fact, where is the inlet to that box? Why is that box needed? Why not route the intake out of the engine bay directly…
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I'm taking in cold air through the frame rail. I didn't show it in the pictures but I did mention it. The box is needed because I have hydro locked a gsr engine with a cold air intake. Because of the design of the box, even if the pipe off of the box is submerged and water gets into the box, the water will not travel from the box to the turbo, preventing hydro lock. I tested this with a shop vac and all I got was the shop vac bogging down and no water inside the vac. When you hydro lock a 45k mi gsr engine you become paranoid. With this setup I get the added benefits of the cold air intake without the worry.
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A lot of thought went into this during the design. All I would have to do is disconnect 2 couplers and the entire box will come out. I can even pull the box right out the top of the engine bay without moving any piping or anything. I'm very happy with it.
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I want to put my a/c and power steering back in one day, plus a top mounted manifold would have shifted my power band even further up. Not what I wanted, I want as much useable power band as I can get with the amount of power that in trying to make.
I like this idea..
I would still like to know about routing the pipe thru the box and adding ice to have a cold charge pipe. Im sure it would lower IAT's dramatically.
I would still like to know about routing the pipe thru the box and adding ice to have a cold charge pipe. Im sure it would lower IAT's dramatically.
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That's right I forgot you suggested this on ej8squad right?! Anyway I was half asleep when I was reading your post. If you don't mind, could you explain how you would do this. I wouldn't mind trying it, sounds like it could work.
i would be more intrigued by this idea if the box was made more like a AWIC to ensure the box temps stay down. in theory this isn't a bad idea, however whatever warm air gets in there has nowhere to go except into the turbo, unlike an open filter system which just draws in whatever air i around. IMPO, i think drawing in whatever air it can, like an open cone filter, is better than trying to draw in trapped, no temp controlled air, cause your more likely to get warmer air that will have "okay at best" IAT's, vice something else
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i would be more intrigued by this idea if the box was made more like a AWIC to ensure the box temps stay down. in theory this isn't a bad idea, however whatever warm air gets in there has nowhere to go except into the turbo, unlike an open filter system which just draws in whatever air i around. IMPO, i think drawing in whatever air it can, like an open cone filter, is better than trying to draw in trapped, no temp controlled air, cause your more likely to get warmer air that will have "okay at best" IAT's, vice something else
Haha I googled AWIC and stuff to do with animals popped up lol. You mind explaining what that is. And I kind of understand where your coming from but my cold air box is gathering some of the coolest air available. I could of coarse add ice or something like that, but without anything like that this is about as good as it gets as far as the availability of really cool air around the engine compartment.
the air going into the turbo is irrelevant. you don't want it to be piping hot of course, but when it is only going to heat up more after going through the turbo, so you need a solution to cool the charge air back down again, which is why Front Mount Intercoolers and Air to Water Intercoolers are needed
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Being that thin of sheet metal, it can't be much weight at all. If your really worried about weight, i wouldnt run a turbo because that is were most of the added weight will be. I think it is much more cost effective using sheet metal rather than aluminum.
I like this idea a lot. I am going to try to my own after I boost my gsr. I just recently added a 4" speaker port as a velocity stack behind my fog light opening with piping running up to the opening into the frame rail providing fresh air for my ITR intake box. It is a little ghetto but it works!
I like this idea a lot. I am going to try to my own after I boost my gsr. I just recently added a 4" speaker port as a velocity stack behind my fog light opening with piping running up to the opening into the frame rail providing fresh air for my ITR intake box. It is a little ghetto but it works!
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Being that thin of sheet metal, it can't be much weight at all. If your really worried about weight, i wouldnt run a turbo because that is were most of the added weight will be. I think it is much more cost effective using sheet metal rather than aluminum.
I like this idea a lot. I am going to try to my own after I boost my gsr. I just recently added a 4" speaker port as a velocity stack behind my fog light opening with piping running up to the opening into the frame rail providing fresh air for my ITR intake box. It is a little ghetto but it works!
I like this idea a lot. I am going to try to my own after I boost my gsr. I just recently added a 4" speaker port as a velocity stack behind my fog light opening with piping running up to the opening into the frame rail providing fresh air for my ITR intake box. It is a little ghetto but it works!
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