SRDFTITAN

iTrader: (3)

Built this originally to include in a Heat Management Thread that I was doing and decided to post it in this section, as I'm happy with the way it came out. Now I am not a professional fabricator or anything like that so don't don't try to kill me. I just think that it may be usefull to some people that are thinking of doing something like this. The box draws in cold air through the existing hole in the frame rail and then out to my fog light housing. I wrapped everything in DEI's Reflect A Gold heat tape.



















































Hope you guys like it!!

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Looks good, probably would have used bigger intake pipe though.

SRDFTITAN

iTrader: (3)

I went with a 3" pipe because my turbo inlet is 3". Actually going with a bigger pipe would have been awesome because I could only find a 4" hole saw!!

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

ah 3" should be enough then looks smaller

SRDFTITAN

iTrader: (3)

haha yeah I know it does look small.

sleepencivic

I'd watch the inside of the box for signs rust your going to get some condensation in there, other than that looks good man!!

SRDFTITAN

iTrader: (3)

You are exactly correct and I'm open to suggestions on how to remedy this. I was thinking about this yesterday when I was rinsing the inside of the box out. Any ideas?

Ash J. Williams

coat it with something (gelcoat, etching primer, etc.) pour it in the box and rotate the box around for a complete coat.

Steeve_Civic

Very Nice box but sure it will change the HP numbers.
Hâve you planned to dyno the car with and without the box?

sleepencivic

powder coat is perfect option for coating the inside/out, or remake it out of stainless or alum.

migrod1

you could probably get a sheet of carbon fiber and small brackets and make the box again.

93h2beg

looks good, hopefully you will let us know how it works.
Im glad to see someone actually doing something rather than being an internet cowboy and just talking smack. way to try a new avenue, i applaud you good sir.

Schister66

That looks really good...especially after the gold heat wrap.

SRDFTITAN

iTrader: (3)

I will try this, I should be able to get all of the inside of it with a can of etching primer. Thanks for the suggestion

SRDFTITAN

iTrader: (3)

It is in the plans to dyno the car. Before I do that I'm going to log some more numbers to see if my charge piping and intake air temperatures have dropped any ( see my heat management thread). After this I need to figure out what's going on with my boost controller before I dyno it.

SRDFTITAN

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, really I appreciate it. I don't really like going off of theory's or here say. I like proof, that's why I've also done a heat management thread where I've taken pretty much any temp measurement that you can think of. Hopefully all of this will be good for newcomers and veterans alike. Thanks again for the support.

SRDFTITAN

iTrader: (3)

Yeah this stuff does have a certain bling factor to it! Good thing the stuff works lol!!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The only gripe I have, and its minor, is that the box is steel... even by default with heat reflective material it will absorb and retain more heat.

I love the box and the concept though. I would use this as a prototype and do the temperature data, then use your template to have an aluminum box made... you can have it water jetted where all you need to do is fold a few sides and weld it up.

I would be curious to do a side by side comparison of the gold foil vs the lava sheet material as well. It's supposed to deflect a lot more heat then the gold foil, as well as being able to be exposd to more heat (1800 degrees)

93h2beg

but aluminum is harder to weld LOL. i have a tig and a mig but cant tig aluminum to save my life!

jakefalcons

if anything aluminum transfers heat better then steel i don't see how that would help any. He'd have to make the box out of carbon or plastic or some sort of material that doesn't transfer heat as well as metal does. looks great though, cant wait to see if you see improved numbers!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I can make a mold and do a carbon piece

The problem is steel retains heat... go weld a piece of steel and tell me how long it stays hot... then do it with aluminum... the aluminum piece will cool much quicker because aluminum is a good conductor of heat, so it doesn't retain it.

SRDFTITAN

iTrader: (3)

I will keep all this in mind, to be honest I don't want to have to make another if I don't have to. Now if the temperatures in my charge piping or intake rise I will go back to the drawing board, however based on theory that is highly unlikely. I went with these materials because they were free lol. I can see how steel retains more heat but I don't think that any of my under hood temps are too high where the reflect a hold will have a problem.

I will say that I have been approached by several companies that manufacture heat related products that on paper far surpass anything that I've tested. This is no guarantee but they like how thorough my heat management testing went and may want me to do some testing for them in the near future. So stay tuned never know what may be around the corner.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Can't beat free... and having a filter box with a cold air supply outside the engine bay as well as the reflective foil will definitely drop pre turbo inlet temps, much more so than just a filter in the engine bay.

And when you drop pre turbo inlet temps, compressor outlet temps drop exponentially. This is the reason a lot of people run methanol injection pre-turbo, compressing and heating the methanol/air mixture causes the methanol to vaporize and rapidly expand, supercooling the air its atomized with. People have seen 200 degree drops in turbo outlet temperatures... a few even at or below ambient during cool weather. The only problem is you risk having methanol pool in the intercooler but I've hears it's rare. Also, your blow off valve (depending where it is) will be venting methanol vapor laden air into the engine bay.

I plan on dabbling with pre-turbo methanol injection some, they've made a ring that slips over the compressor inlet and has a central jet that sprays at the center of the compressor nut, preventing compressor wheel erosion seen in earlier systems that sprayed methanol directly at the blades, eroded them like river rock. Also, I'll have a drain valve on the hot side of the intercooler to monitor if methanol is in fact pooling... it shouldn't because technically when you compressed the methanol in the compressor housing, the methanol (if properly metered) should have all vaporized into a gas. I'll also be using this in conjunction with a more typical methanol injection setup, either pre intake plenum (I'm using ITBs so I guess pre throttle) or I'll put the nozzles in my plenum top next to my shower injectors to have a direct port methanol fogger system of sorts. I should have super cool IATs.

Another idea I have is I'll be placing the filter behind the upper grill. Since I don't have ac I'll be making a diverter plate like I suggested earlier, but, I'll cut a hole in it the size of my compressor inlet and weld a pipe through it so I can simply clamp piping to diverter plate, turbo on one side, filter on the cold side. I'll also be insulating the intake pipe off the turbo and either ceramic coat or gold foil the diverter plate so radiant heat from the intercooler, radiator, and engine bay can't absorb into the divided what so ever because then all it would do is heat the air where the pipe passes through

And on the grill side I'll make a small semi air box so all of the air that enters the grill area is forced to go to the filter and not around it

Sorry for the thread jack, just like to toss ideas around

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

I love the idea of getting cooler air into the turbo, but not at the sacrafice of restriction.

I just don't like the idea of all that extra added piping lenght leading to the compressor.

Aside from filter, IMHO i'd like to have least amount of restriction on the compressor as possible for power/response.

wunfstgsr

I like the idea, did you think about coating it with a high temp paint like VHT or even the wrinkle finish VHT high temp paint? i know you used the gold tape to match the rest and for its high advantage but was wondering if you thought about spraying it on the outside. I just sprayed a valve cover with wrinkle red VHT high temp and it does a great job of keeping the valve cover cool! i can keep my hand on the valve cover when the motor is hot but most other parts on the motor even the sk2 manifold is hot to the touch.