Weird?
Hello folks and thanks in advance for your replies and suggestions!!
I have a 91 accord, with a full h22a swap, I just swapped my tranny from an old F to a newer 99' m2a4 lude tranny. I needed a new slave cylinder so I bought that, and began what I thought was sucessful bleeding of my brand new exedy clutch.
I added clutch fluid (dot 3) and had my girl pump the clutch rapidly.. After 20 or so times, I had her hold it in and I openned the bleeder nipple to let the air out. I did this about 40 times and I literaly went from no clutch to a half decent clutch that was now able to move my car. (Not sure if this is important but I bled the clutch with the car running.) I drove it around the block and parked it. Tonight (after this wicked snow storm) I went out and dug her out of the snow, and decided why not a few more rounds around the block? Well, I grabbed the shifter and tried to go for first and I hit (what felt like) a brick wall. I had this issue before with my old slave cylinder after the clutch install. I waited for the car to get completely warm, and still nothing. Infact when I try to go for any gear the rpm's drop slightly. Im imagining the flywheel and clutch are not seperating enough, but how?
My question is, why is it doing this now? I checked the clutch fluid resevoir and it doesn't seem to be any lower in fluid? Someone help, this is racking my brain completely.
I have a 91 accord, with a full h22a swap, I just swapped my tranny from an old F to a newer 99' m2a4 lude tranny. I needed a new slave cylinder so I bought that, and began what I thought was sucessful bleeding of my brand new exedy clutch.
I added clutch fluid (dot 3) and had my girl pump the clutch rapidly.. After 20 or so times, I had her hold it in and I openned the bleeder nipple to let the air out. I did this about 40 times and I literaly went from no clutch to a half decent clutch that was now able to move my car. (Not sure if this is important but I bled the clutch with the car running.) I drove it around the block and parked it. Tonight (after this wicked snow storm) I went out and dug her out of the snow, and decided why not a few more rounds around the block? Well, I grabbed the shifter and tried to go for first and I hit (what felt like) a brick wall. I had this issue before with my old slave cylinder after the clutch install. I waited for the car to get completely warm, and still nothing. Infact when I try to go for any gear the rpm's drop slightly. Im imagining the flywheel and clutch are not seperating enough, but how?
My question is, why is it doing this now? I checked the clutch fluid resevoir and it doesn't seem to be any lower in fluid? Someone help, this is racking my brain completely.
Hoping someone can help me figure this mess out. I really don't wanna have to bleed again, and I'm honestly leaning towards a leak in one of the connections where air is getting in..
If I remember right, and I'm surprised I don't but I only needed to bleed my clutch once, you should open the bleeder, then push the clutch, then tighten the bleeder, then pull the clutch pedal back and redo again.
This is opposite of the brakes which you push and hold, open the bleeder, the pedal falls to the floor, then you close and pull the pedal back and redo.
Try that way and see what happens.
This is opposite of the brakes which you push and hold, open the bleeder, the pedal falls to the floor, then you close and pull the pedal back and redo.
Try that way and see what happens.
If I remember right, and I'm surprised I don't but I only needed to bleed my clutch once, you should open the bleeder, then push the clutch, then tighten the bleeder, then pull the clutch pedal back and redo again.
This is opposite of the brakes which you push and hold, open the bleeder, the pedal falls to the floor, then you close and pull the pedal back and redo.
Try that way and see what happens.
This is opposite of the brakes which you push and hold, open the bleeder, the pedal falls to the floor, then you close and pull the pedal back and redo.
Try that way and see what happens.
So, no pressure is lost from not having the bleeder nipple open? I was always leary of even unscrewing it too much, but if its sole purpose is to JUST get air out then I guess I have been way wrong.
Last edited by H22_CB7_JAY; Feb 9, 2013 at 12:20 PM.
pretty simple and fast fill your reserve up get a peice of vacum hose to fit snug over the bleeder screw get a full can of fluid stick rthe other end of the vac hose all the way to the botttom of the can of fluid make sure it stays all the way down open the bleeder screw go in your car and pump away once solid tighten bleeder screw and your off 

If I remember right, and I'm surprised I don't but I only needed to bleed my clutch once, you should open the bleeder, then push the clutch, then tighten the bleeder, then pull the clutch pedal back and redo again.
This is opposite of the brakes which you push and hold, open the bleeder, the pedal falls to the floor, then you close and pull the pedal back and redo.
Try that way and see what happens.
This is opposite of the brakes which you push and hold, open the bleeder, the pedal falls to the floor, then you close and pull the pedal back and redo.
Try that way and see what happens.
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There's no pressure in the system until you push the clutch. Even if a little fluid falls out, it's going in the same direction that you want from the master cylinder ------> to the bleeder valve. I assume that are not allowing the master cylinder to get low at all during the bleeding process ? If it gets too low it will suck air in and you will have to rebleed.
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fred92htch
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Sep 10, 2004 05:36 AM



