hey guys i just finished building my lsv build

parts consist of

BLOCK
CP 9:1 PISTONS 81.5MM
EAGLE RODS
ACL BEARINGS
STOCK LS CRANK, MICRO POLISHED
FRESH BORE AND HONE

HEAD
SUPERTECH VALVES,RETAINERS
GSR CAMS
SUPERTECH VALVE GUIDES

TURBO
BORG WARNER S300
TIAL 44MM WASTEGATE
BLUERIDGE MOTORSPORTS TOP MOUNT
FULL RACE INTERCOOLER


MY QUESTION IS THAT AFTER THE MOTOR WAS ALL ASSEMBLED WE TRIED TURNING THE CRANK OVER AND IT WAS REALLY TIGHT BUT THEN IT WOULD LET LOOSE AND TURN OVER A LITTLE TIGHTER THEN NORMAL. EVERYTHING WAS TORQUED TO SPEC AND PLATIGUAGE. WE EVEN TURNED IT WITH THE HEAD OFF AND SAME THING. SO WE WENT AHEAD AND INSTALLED IT IN THE CAR AND WHEN WE TRIED TURNING THE CAR ON WITH THE STARTER, THE STARTER COULDNT SPIN THE FLYWHEEL CAUSE IT WAS TIGHT.SO IS THIS NORMAL ON A MOTOR THAT HAS A FRESHH BORE AND HONE ,AND CRANKS BEEN MICRO POLISHED AND EVERYTHING IN SPEC

 

nope not normal. my crank turned over by hand when i rebuilt my motor. some thing is tourqued to tight. pull the pan and main caps

 

The crankshaft should turn over easily by hand during assembly. What was the specs when you did the plastigauge ? Did you use assembly lube on all the mains and rods and cams etc.. ?

Either way that motor needs to come out and be torn down to find the problem. If you didnt lube then order bearings and pray you didnt damage crankshaft. there are a lot of variables here but it all boils down to that crank should turn over by hand.

 

i used royal purple assembly lube , yea the cranks turned by hand ,im saying when the entire block was assembled ,thats when it was hard.......we lubricated everything very well , cylinder walls ,bearings, piston rings, everything

 

your rods big ends are probably out of round ? did you buy them new or used?

 

It shouldn't turn over that easy with the head on and torqued. Even the you're fighting compression at certain points.

But during assembly before the head goes on, it should spin like butter

But before you go blaming the bottom end, is your electrical system healthy? (Battery, alternator, solid electrical connections) and have tried a different starter? Maybe yours is on the way out

 

everything in the motor is brand new,all my electrical is good , battery is new and so is starter. i blame the bottom end because it was doing the same thing with the head off the block. im thinking its the main or rod caps being to tight , im gunna check em tommorow but im positive i torqued it to 56ft lbs

 

i had this happen a couple times on me . my mistake was not making sure the rods wernt out of round .

 

Double check that the rods and pistons were installed correctly.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/eagle-rod-pistons-instal-3059788/

This might be where your bind is coming From.

 

Its probably from the compression, once the valves open it becomes easy to turn, then harder again.

 

what turbo is that, very nice!!!

 

its ur main, either caps are out of round or crank journal, im guessing u went with .0015 clearance.

 

Sounds like either the crank has warped, the block needs to be line bored/honed, or the big end fillet needs to be checked.

 

Clean engine bay though!