Any tips on making the heavy CB7 lighter
Hey everyone. Besides already strong running stock motor, I feel that there is so much room for improvement for making the CB7 lighter. I have already pulled the Extra junk in the trunk (my ride, not my behind), and Sub & amp (thanks to better quality speakers). I want to leave the spare & stock jack, and heavy hood to add traction for launch. Any other ideas or comments about current setup? Is my engine heavy enough to where I can go with CF hood and not wheel hop on the launch? (Hood currently looks as if previous owner ran over pedestrians for a living...) I'm only doing this because I read somewhere that the lighter your car, the better your mileage will be because your engine doesnt have to work extra hard to haul the extra junk.
There are many, many threads on weight reduction all across the web. check those for some great ideas.
for your car specifically, since you mentioned wheel hop.. look at replacing the front crossmember with an aftermarket traction bar setup. these are typically lighter than the stock front crossmember and they restrict the fore/aft movement of the front LCAs (which is a major contributor to wheel hop.)
many newer cars came with extruded aluminum bumper supports. with some careful measuring of your CB7 supports you may be able to find something at your local pick-n-pull yard that could be addapted to fit. this way the car is safer than removing the supports altogether but lighter than before.
if you still have factory exhaust, especially the cast upper manifold, aftermarket replacement can save some weight and improve available power... maybe. if you size it right.
some other things that you may or may not want to remove...
A/C- some climates allow for this, some don't.
P/S- i'm not aware of a CB7 manual rack option, but you can "loop" your current rack and remove all the pipe/hose, pump, pump bracket (somewhat heavy), resevior and drag on the engine.
Power Windows- this requires you find door panels and all needed hardware to retrofit manual crank windows. you get rid of the four electric motors. weight=?
Rubber floor mats- not much savings but replacing these with some cut to fit indoor/outdoor carpet will shave some weight.
balance shafts- you'll need to remove the motor to get these out. this is very involved! you'll also need to fit an "elimination kit." these can be purchased commercially for about $100 or "DIY-ed" for much less. again, very involved, cuts 10lbs from the motor and frees up whatever amount of power/torque is needed to spin that up.
weight savings is an excersize in compromise. trade comfort/convenience/practicality/safety/money for it. you draw the line for yourself.
for your car specifically, since you mentioned wheel hop.. look at replacing the front crossmember with an aftermarket traction bar setup. these are typically lighter than the stock front crossmember and they restrict the fore/aft movement of the front LCAs (which is a major contributor to wheel hop.)
many newer cars came with extruded aluminum bumper supports. with some careful measuring of your CB7 supports you may be able to find something at your local pick-n-pull yard that could be addapted to fit. this way the car is safer than removing the supports altogether but lighter than before.
if you still have factory exhaust, especially the cast upper manifold, aftermarket replacement can save some weight and improve available power... maybe. if you size it right.
some other things that you may or may not want to remove...
A/C- some climates allow for this, some don't.
P/S- i'm not aware of a CB7 manual rack option, but you can "loop" your current rack and remove all the pipe/hose, pump, pump bracket (somewhat heavy), resevior and drag on the engine.
Power Windows- this requires you find door panels and all needed hardware to retrofit manual crank windows. you get rid of the four electric motors. weight=?
Rubber floor mats- not much savings but replacing these with some cut to fit indoor/outdoor carpet will shave some weight.
balance shafts- you'll need to remove the motor to get these out. this is very involved! you'll also need to fit an "elimination kit." these can be purchased commercially for about $100 or "DIY-ed" for much less. again, very involved, cuts 10lbs from the motor and frees up whatever amount of power/torque is needed to spin that up.
weight savings is an excersize in compromise. trade comfort/convenience/practicality/safety/money for it. you draw the line for yourself.
@JuggerNaut: I'm not trying to draw the attention of every law enforcement agency in my city with that setup, lmfao
@hondamark: Thanks for some of the pointers. I've looked around the web for other ideas, but were a little too extreme or has already been done. Since I may be moving to Washington within the next year, I can sacrifice the a/c then. As far as the p/s, I'm already too buff, so I will keep that.
@be4unvme: The turbo kit is a costly option for me at this point, besides getting an h22 swap.
@10thcb7: I will only consider that tin can option for my next project, but just not for this one.
@hondamark: Thanks for some of the pointers. I've looked around the web for other ideas, but were a little too extreme or has already been done. Since I may be moving to Washington within the next year, I can sacrifice the a/c then. As far as the p/s, I'm already too buff, so I will keep that.
@be4unvme: The turbo kit is a costly option for me at this point, besides getting an h22 swap.
@10thcb7: I will only consider that tin can option for my next project, but just not for this one.
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^Where in washington?
h22 swap can be had for pretty cheap...its direct drop in, plug and play, no bs. Small amount of wiring to do but is a very strait forward swap. Car will feel completely different with that motor
h22 swap can be had for pretty cheap...its direct drop in, plug and play, no bs. Small amount of wiring to do but is a very strait forward swap. Car will feel completely different with that motor
Seattle. Not sure exactly yet where, but wherever my next career will take me.
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