Can someone tell me what the "Shift Stablizer" is for, or does?

And is it really needed? or can you just build a bracket for the shifter itself

 

Nevermind, this car is going to the crusher, dont care how much cash is in the it

 

Is there anything worth value? Take all that of because you can.sell it. You wont get jack **** for it anyways...

 

the whole swap has less than 20k miles but I dont care, I am going back to Nissan where I can accually get my questions answered

 

wow no need to cry you posted at night about a non "serious" (as apposed to "help car shut off on the middle of back roads") question. the shift stablizer bar does just that, keeps the shifter from dropping and flopping all over. and you're a damn fool for not parting out your sol if it really has all the mods you garage says it has. that like literally wiping your *** with 100 dollar bills.

 

To be honest I have waited for a answer for about 4 days, and to be honest if anyone read the orginal post they would know this is my DD and its been down for a week, and I really needed help..

But I thank you for finally answering my question... Now I can call and cancel the tow truck ...

and for the next question if I really wanted to I could bypass that bar and just make a plate bracket? or highly un advised?

 

The shift stabilizer isn't some special bar or anything...

It is the rear mount for the shift linkage. The stock one is made out a soft rubber.

Energy Suspension's product is made out of polyurethane. It is much stiffer, thus taking a lot of play out of shifter.

Its a pretty good $20 to invest, as long as you don't scrap you car over not being able to fix the problem, what ever it is.

 

Well its very fustrating, I am trying to learn these motors etc etc, but wasn't getting any feedback.. I greatly appreciate the feedback, wish it had came on a better note than me flipping out..

The bushings are new, my concern was the bar itself, since thats what broke the P.O triedd to lengthen it but used crap materials.. I am in the process of trying to lengthen it back.. But I figured if I can, why couldn't I just bypass the bar and me a shifter bracket.. Just a temp fix till I can afford the B16 from Honda dealership

 

No, you need the stabilizer bar. It allows the shifter to move with the engine. If you remove it make a plate the car will pop out of 2nd, 4th and reverse under acceleration.

 

Ok thank you very much.. I guess I need to continue to try and work with whats broke hopefully I can get the length right..I know my first weld it was about a 1in off, but can't figure out the stupid bend he had in it to allow the shifter to go mount flush..

 

U have a b16? I can probably hook you up with mine if your willing to pay for shipping and a lil bit of cash for me to sell it pm me if your interested

 

It's supposed to be bent. They come like that from the factory.

That linkage is also Del Sol specific, it's about 2 inches longer than a regular B-series civic/integra linkage.

 

I have a B18CR Swap.. If it will work on the swap I will do it in a heartbeat

Well this bar was not bent. Its got a few hooks but no bends/angles going up..

P.O put a bend in it where he welded his awful weld, I thought it was bent cause it snapped as I was doing 50 and it was bouncing on the road before I pulled over.. So I took his bend out now it shifter end of that rod won't run flush with floor so I can mount it..

 

It will work as long as it came from a B-series powered Del Sol.

Well this bar was not bent. Its got a few hooks but no bends/angles going up..

P.O put a bend in it where he welded his awful weld, I thought it was bent cause it snapped as I was doing 50 and it was bouncing on the road before I pulled over.. So I took his bend out now it shifter end of that rod won't run flush with floor so I can mount it..[/quote]

Have you got any pictures of the linkage that might help us out? I don't understand why he welded it. There's really only ever 2 reasons to weld up a Honda shift linkage: It rusts through (I've seen this exactly once, and I doubt you have the salt we have here that would cause that) or it was the wrong linkage and it was cut and welded to fit (probably a regular B-series linkage got lengthened)

It should look like this:

 

Thats the bar I have a, I believe its a D series..

 

He welded it next to the transmission end about 3 inchs up

Now he does have some, big motor mounts on this thing, the engine sits, at a forward angle and high.. I had to use hood pins to keep the hood locked.. would that make a difference?

 

That is indeed a D-series and it wont work.

Any pics of the mount situation? I have some suspicions this might have been an auto to manual swap gone wrong. The upper transmission mount and bracket will tell the tale.

 

That linkage is for a d-series...replace it with the correct one instead. It is supposed to mount on a shaft that is about an inch (ish) below where the extension shaft goes into the transmission

 

Well he had it working fine till the crappy weld job broke, I mean I have been driving it for a month.. So I guess a D series will work if you can weld it correctly..

I will get pics of the mounts first thing in the morning...


Well thats the issue, my funds are below what I need to purchase the correct linkage.. My local Honda dealer wants 189 just for that bar... Cheapest online I have found is 144..
The car when bought was being turned ito a straight up track car.. It cost me a fortune to get it barely back to DD status, and I use the word "barely" loosely... So at this point I got use what I have.. Hell, a week after I got it I tested it out with a friends stage 1 srt4 and it didnt break a sweat and that was on a bad tune.. So the D series can work... But if I can get it back correctly the way it was.. I will make a write up on how to use a D series since I see alot of people asking the same thing.. Especially if you are on a tight budget..

 

Thanks for all the help guys.. My linkage is now fixed..

And cost me $0 and 15 minutes of my life...

You can use the D series linkage, I will take some pics and do a measurement write up.
Mine is 100% dead on.. shifts a crap lload better with barely any shifter play..