Turbo Ej1 D16Z6 motor.. wiseco pistons etc overheat problem
Hello I have read a lot of post and plenty that sound the same I have been having a radiator resovor overflow problem but it is not as bad since I have replaced to a blackworks dual core and mishumoto thermostat it has never peged to red but will throw a code for over heat (I also have S300) so anyway I it rises top a little over half and then plains out and goes to normal I. Thought it could be the head gasket as well but no signs when I had a leak down test done at profunction in IL there the best I think. Alright so back to the over heat problem they did a leak down test everything showed normal well now I have a water pump leak and it only over heats every now and then and not in the red so my Q is could it of had beeen my water pump the whole time should I bother to do the head gasket? I would like to stay away from doing the head because I will end up buying new arp studs and everything else well I'm in there I just would like someone to tell me should I just to the timeing belt and water pump for now? Could this have beeen my problem the whole intire time. The motor is at 18 psi and has a recint tune head and sleave work has been done in the past about 70k on the build thanks for taking the time to read this post I hope I get some educated idears thanks
Keep overheating it. You'll be looking for another engine. I don't care if it never goes into the "red".
Did you install a new headgasket when you slapped the turbo on it? ARP headstuds at least? "Built motor" doesn't tell us anything. Could be headlift. Also sounds like insufficient cooling. What does your fan setup look like?
Did you install a new headgasket when you slapped the turbo on it? ARP headstuds at least? "Built motor" doesn't tell us anything. Could be headlift. Also sounds like insufficient cooling. What does your fan setup look like?
everything was replaced at the same time when the turbo was put on arp studs head gasket etc i replaced the radiator to a blackwords dual core and i am using the stock fan with the new radiator i was told it is better to keep your stock fan because it cups to the radiator for better flow...
reuse the arp studs you dont really need to buy a new set every time. ive reuse stock head bolts with no problems before. it is recomended but not nessisary. i would replace both though your leak test came back normal. what is normal? do you have any accual numbers?
i do not have any actual numbers but i did call and he said he will get back to me with them but since the water pump has gave out that means the compression test did not show it, what would u be able to let me know if i did have the numbers, thanks btw for replying to my post, also my tech at profunction told me to just start with the water pump if i dont have alot of money to shell out plus i dont have much experience with head gaskets, so for now i am going to replace the water pump and belt and go from there.
yes i am at 18 psi and prob a little over 70k
yes i am at 18 psi and prob a little over 70k
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Id use a even bigger rad, like and integra mishimoto, dual fans and maybe some form of hood venting.
Running all that boost for a hi mi engine is just insane.
Id doesnt surprise me you have issues at all.
If you dont have the money to build it right, and keep it cool then remove the turbo until you can afford to do it right.
Boost =heat.
Heat is your engines mortal enemy.
Running all that boost for a hi mi engine is just insane.
Id doesnt surprise me you have issues at all.
If you dont have the money to build it right, and keep it cool then remove the turbo until you can afford to do it right.
Boost =heat.
Heat is your engines mortal enemy.
Start at your tune. Too much timing and you'll be blowing headgaskets left and right.
Is your block and head straight? I am running an Ebay dual core with stock fan and have no problem at 310whp @ 18psi once I took care of my timing problem
Is your block and head straight? I am running an Ebay dual core with stock fan and have no problem at 310whp @ 18psi once I took care of my timing problem
Thanks sde I will check that out after I do the timing belt and water pump I have s300 would the timing have to be done well on the dyno...?
Last edited by Jayschutz; Jan 12, 2013 at 12:38 PM. Reason: spell check
Also the block and head I believe is ok no sludge or bad compression the car was fine until I put er on the dyno and added s300 and more hp with new ngk's I have a feeling it was the way it was set up on the last tune and time for a water pump and timing belt anywys but the radiator I was told was more then big enough from my shop its not only when I am in boost but sometimes normal driving also I do not beat on my car and try to keep an eye on my boost gauge air fuel etc this motor is very strong still and has plenty of hop still in it, it doesn't over heat just malfuctions and goes to half way then drops back down not pushing fluid tho just the water pump leak is bothering me and and its getting on the driveway its a caramel brown color its a PITA
If you losing fluid you know you have a problem, I had similar problems it turned out to be the water pump was failing and the headgaskets where at the end of their life.
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