ok heres my story, I have a 97accord Ex vtec obd2a.
Engine H22A OBD1 jdm with a P13 J00 Also Jdm

Well I re route my stock engine harness were my Old Crank sensor was, to the Distributor
I re wire exactly as it shows in this Link http://www.cd5tuner.com/vbb/showthre...?t=1043&page=6 I also make the ecu pin swap A11 to A6 on the jumper harness by the obd1 side. well my engine just crank but doesnt turn on, I feel im missing something, I am getting spark at the spark plugs, and im also getting Fuel To Rail, I have connected the ground wire in the tranny, behind the intake manifold, next to the driver side motor moun, and in front of battery, can anyone help

 

Dude, you don't have an obd1 car so you don't have to make any changes to your harness so you don't have to swap A11 and A6 at all. End of story on that.

You just need an obd2a to obd1 jumper harness and add iab and knock sensor wiring. The iab can be a simple wire, the knock sensor is required to be shielded wire. You will need to be some 16 gauge shielded wire and be sure to cut back the metal sheath at the ecu and put a butt connector on it and run that to ground to ground the metal sheath portion of the shielded wire. The knock sensor has to be shielded wire because it is susceptible to radio interference which will screw with the knock sensor if the wiring isn't shielded. The iab doesn't need to be shielded. There is a guy called axidworks that sells kits you can buy instead. Just google his name.

You will need an obd1 h22a/h23a distributor and some type of adapter for the distributor plugs. You'll probably need to wire in the crank sensor since your car has it in the crank and the obd1 distributor has it inside it. This wire will need to be shielded wire as it is susceptible to radio interference(see above). Try calling rywire directly and see what they can offer you.

Just use your existing harness. I think I seen you post that you had obd1 harness. If you still can, just use your own. I think that would be easier. If not, just ask questions in this thread if you run into any problems.

 

ok so you saying my car doesnt start because of the pin swap, Ill get it back to their places. Also my wiring is connected the same as this link shows

http://www.cd5tuner.com/vbb/showthre...?t=1043&page=6

 

ok can I test compression with out the engine turning on?? Also on my spark plug wire it trowing spark but not to much I can berly see it

 

Your car isn't starting the crank sensor isn't wired in. Which distributor are you using ? I'm assuming you're using the obd1 distributor.

It might be best to get an obd2 h22 distributor and swap an obd2 oil pump to your engine since it's obd1. That should be all you need.

I don't know if the connectors line up correctly for your obd1 distributor and your obd2 accord harness connectors. You should atleast check and see that the pins lineup together when you plug them in...meaning that you should check to see if the sensors pins are the same when you plug the pins in. If only the distributor is missing the crank sensor but all the pins otherwise line up then you just need to wire in the crank sensor. You can get some shielded wire like I said above and wire the crank sensor and run it to the ecu and you should be good to go if you want to go that route and don't want to get an obd2 h22 distributor and don't want to swap over an obd2 oil pump.

 

Yes, you can compression test without turning the car on. That's actually how you compression test. The car won't run without spark plugs and you will have the tester in place of the spark plugs so the car won't start anyhow.

Remember to remove the distributor plugs to disable spark or you will burn out your ignition coil, and remember to remove the main relay to disable the fuel pump or it will pump out fuel while you're cranking to test.

 

Oh, and also you will need to wire in the iab and knock sensor. Your car will start but it wont' run as good without both of those. Like I said above, just google axidworks and order the kit from him.

 

I guess we put the timing wrong lol at first the #4 was trowing 150, then the 3rd one 89 then 2nd 80 then 1 also 80, we double chek it when all the way down to 30 ha no cmoression at all

 

lets say I miss for a teet on timing, you tink my Valvules are bad or na

 

Compression test is one of the easiest things you can do. First remove ALL the spark plugs. This makes it easier on the starter. Then screw the tester into one of the spark plug holes. You only need it hand tight. Disconnect the distributor connectors and disconnect the main relay. Then basically crank it until the gauge stops moving up. Then report back the results. I'm not even sure if you can have 30 psi compression. If you really do, then your engine is junk and you need to call up the company you got it from and make arrangements to get another one. But test it again and see.

 

when doing the compression test we forgot to open the trothle, they say if trothle not open it will trow low compression, so I make a research before Replying and this guy had the same problem, ---> ( http://nzhondas.com/tech-help/138297...-research.html ) he just put some Oil into every spark plug hole into pistons and got it runing, I will TDC the engine today and see if we did it wrong when putting the timing, the camshafts lingths up perfect but not zsure on crankshaft, I will keep an update, and if I can I will add a video on youtube