High Compression Nitrous i got a couple of Q's
Here is a quick breakdown on what i have. This is for a weekend warrior and occasional track. I'am open to all opinions and im hoping for some pointers. Ive spent hours researching my all motor setup, then came across a good deal on a nitrous setup.
Block:
84.5 weisco 13.5 pistons
eagle rods
stock crank
stock b20b block bored to 84.5
Head:
gsr head stock port
supertech head package, dual valve springs, retainers, flat vlaves
Skunk 2 pro 2's, Skunk 2 cam gears
Vitctor X
70mm tb
Everything with the head is going to be port matched
Fuel:
1000cc Percisions
Im running e85
walbro 255
Nitrous:
HONDA NXL 4 CYLINDER Nitrous express, its the kit that comes with the nitrous in the fuel rail.
Dunno what size shot to run, keep in mind om on stock sleeves....100-150? Only plan to shoot the nitrous at the track, all motor is good enough for me on the street.
Transmission:
Undecided yet but going lsd regardless, ive heard that a jdm gsr tranny has the best gears for all motor. Open to sugestions.
6 puck sprung act
lightweight flywheel.
Engine management:
I dont know s300, chrome? I want to control the nitrous with a full throttle switch. Anyone ever tune a high compression nitrous car on chrome? Chrome is cheapest wat to go.
Exhaust:
Hytech rep big tube headers
3 inch full exhaust to a 3" vibrant muffler, no cat or res
Chassis:
Looking for a eg hatch, but i have to get rid of some of the shells i have know before i buy another honda.
Tires:
Also another question i have, what would be a good size slick to run with this car at the track?
If anyone has been down this road it would be great to get your feedback and experiances. Nothing is set in stone yet on what my exact setup will be. Also if anyone has seen a similar setup what numbers were they putting down?
Block:
84.5 weisco 13.5 pistons
eagle rods
stock crank
stock b20b block bored to 84.5
Head:
gsr head stock port
supertech head package, dual valve springs, retainers, flat vlaves
Skunk 2 pro 2's, Skunk 2 cam gears
Vitctor X
70mm tb
Everything with the head is going to be port matched
Fuel:
1000cc Percisions
Im running e85
walbro 255
Nitrous:
HONDA NXL 4 CYLINDER Nitrous express, its the kit that comes with the nitrous in the fuel rail.
Dunno what size shot to run, keep in mind om on stock sleeves....100-150? Only plan to shoot the nitrous at the track, all motor is good enough for me on the street.
Transmission:
Undecided yet but going lsd regardless, ive heard that a jdm gsr tranny has the best gears for all motor. Open to sugestions.
6 puck sprung act
lightweight flywheel.
Engine management:
I dont know s300, chrome? I want to control the nitrous with a full throttle switch. Anyone ever tune a high compression nitrous car on chrome? Chrome is cheapest wat to go.
Exhaust:
Hytech rep big tube headers
3 inch full exhaust to a 3" vibrant muffler, no cat or res
Chassis:
Looking for a eg hatch, but i have to get rid of some of the shells i have know before i buy another honda.
Tires:
Also another question i have, what would be a good size slick to run with this car at the track?
If anyone has been down this road it would be great to get your feedback and experiances. Nothing is set in stone yet on what my exact setup will be. Also if anyone has seen a similar setup what numbers were they putting down?
General consensus seems to be 350 whp MAX on that block but only around 300 whp reliably and safely. You already have badass cams, very high compression, and the fuel to utilize both. Without spray you're already in the 300whp range with a ported head if I had to guess.
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You will be on thin ice with nitrous on that block. I'm building a motor similar to this right now but with a sleeved block.
I've previously ran a stock sleeve ls-vtec plus a 150shot and it was right at the edge. I had issues with head gasket/head lift.
All else seems good. Look into a nice block guard. I'd say just sleeve it if your spending $ on everything else already
I've previously ran a stock sleeve ls-vtec plus a 150shot and it was right at the edge. I had issues with head gasket/head lift.
All else seems good. Look into a nice block guard. I'd say just sleeve it if your spending $ on everything else already
Lol be careful who's advice you follow on forums. You aren't making 300hp like a previous poster said but you probably already know that. On a real dynojet you will probably see around 230hp if all goes well and assuming all your parts work well together.
And there is no need for a block guard either. All you will for is create hot spots in already thin cylinder walls. I've built more engines than I can count for people all over and the only one to ever pop was one of my own b20's that tended to run a little on the warm side. It split a sleeve with only a barely visible quarter inch hair line crack right at the block guard.
Currently my set up is very similar to yours. I have pro 2's2 and at one Ti
e used a big tube hi tech knock off. Now I have the one piece big tube DC. I'm running 14-1 compression and a b16 ported head and all BC valvetrain with flat face valves. My block is a stock b20 with eagle rods. A victor x Mani and RC 1000cc injectors.
I run a 100 shot that puts me right at 340 HP managed with s300. Management, good tuning and consistent fuel is key to running a good nitrous set up. My set up is dry and hondata adds the fuel at a given rpm, WOT, and a certain wheel speed. I've been running this set up for over two years and have won a pile of races with it. Ohh and a 23 or 24 inch slick would be perfect.
Good luck if I can help please feel free to ask.
And there is no need for a block guard either. All you will for is create hot spots in already thin cylinder walls. I've built more engines than I can count for people all over and the only one to ever pop was one of my own b20's that tended to run a little on the warm side. It split a sleeve with only a barely visible quarter inch hair line crack right at the block guard.
Currently my set up is very similar to yours. I have pro 2's2 and at one Ti
e used a big tube hi tech knock off. Now I have the one piece big tube DC. I'm running 14-1 compression and a b16 ported head and all BC valvetrain with flat face valves. My block is a stock b20 with eagle rods. A victor x Mani and RC 1000cc injectors.
I run a 100 shot that puts me right at 340 HP managed with s300. Management, good tuning and consistent fuel is key to running a good nitrous set up. My set up is dry and hondata adds the fuel at a given rpm, WOT, and a certain wheel speed. I've been running this set up for over two years and have won a pile of races with it. Ohh and a 23 or 24 inch slick would be perfect.
Good luck if I can help please feel free to ask.
Lol be careful who's advice you follow on forums. You aren't making 300hp like a previous poster said but you probably already know that. On a real dynojet you will probably see around 230hp if all goes well and assuming all your parts work well together.
And there is no need for a block guard either. All you will for is create hot spots in already thin cylinder walls. I've built more engines than I can count for people all over and the only one to ever pop was one of my own b20's that tended to run a little on the warm side. It split a sleeve with only a barely visible quarter inch hair line crack right at the block guard.
Currently my set up is very similar to yours. I have pro 2's2 and at one Ti
e used a big tube hi tech knock off. Now I have the one piece big tube DC. I'm running 14-1 compression and a b16 ported head and all BC valvetrain with flat face valves. My block is a stock b20 with eagle rods. A victor x Mani and RC 1000cc injectors.
I run a 100 shot that puts me right at 340 HP managed with s300. Management, good tuning and consistent fuel is key to running a good nitrous set up. My set up is dry and hondata adds the fuel at a given rpm, WOT, and a certain wheel speed. I've been running this set up for over two years and have won a pile of races with it. Ohh and a 23 or 24 inch slick would be perfect.
Good luck if I can help please feel free to ask.
And there is no need for a block guard either. All you will for is create hot spots in already thin cylinder walls. I've built more engines than I can count for people all over and the only one to ever pop was one of my own b20's that tended to run a little on the warm side. It split a sleeve with only a barely visible quarter inch hair line crack right at the block guard.
Currently my set up is very similar to yours. I have pro 2's2 and at one Ti
e used a big tube hi tech knock off. Now I have the one piece big tube DC. I'm running 14-1 compression and a b16 ported head and all BC valvetrain with flat face valves. My block is a stock b20 with eagle rods. A victor x Mani and RC 1000cc injectors.
I run a 100 shot that puts me right at 340 HP managed with s300. Management, good tuning and consistent fuel is key to running a good nitrous set up. My set up is dry and hondata adds the fuel at a given rpm, WOT, and a certain wheel speed. I've been running this set up for over two years and have won a pile of races with it. Ohh and a 23 or 24 inch slick would be perfect.
Good luck if I can help please feel free to ask.
You can program hondata to activate your nitrous solenoid and at the same time it will switch to a secondary map that you have to tune for the spray. So, you will have one n/a fuel table that is tuned to redline, then a secondary tuned to redline with spray. You set the parameters that it switches over.
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You can program hondata to activate your nitrous solenoid and at the same time it will switch to a secondary map that you have to tune for the spray. So, you will have one n/a fuel table that is tuned to redline, then a secondary tuned to redline with spray. You set the parameters that it switches over.
Ive even ran two stages of nitrous on my old integra. The first stage was a 130 shot the second was a 60 shot. Thats a total of a 190 shot lol. It was a really fun set up! I have never blown up a motor using nitrous.
I've seen a lot of setups online with 1.8L s2p2 with 230whp. And I've found several B20 with s2p2 with 250+ but they all had ported heads.
I'm sure I've over-estimated the advantage of the E85 with the 13.5:1 cr but I'm obviously missing something. Maybe it's the difference in the dynos? How many RPMs are you turning? Would you be willing to post a dyno sheet so I can learn more details about your setup?
I honestly dont have any dyno charts. I know its convenient but its the truth. The shop I've worked at for the past five years has an in house dynojet. I've made so many passes on it that I just dont print out my numbers anymore. Ill check tomorrow when I go in and see if I can pull up the most recent files on my car. I've done extensive testing of different Cams, intake, and header combinations and what I'm working with now has worked the best.
here's an old thread about my car.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/my-drag-crx-pics-pics-pics-2980781/
here's an old thread about my car.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/my-drag-crx-pics-pics-pics-2980781/
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