Been having a problem, trying to figure why my car died randomly and would nit start again. Took the ecu off, and found that when the cover plate is off, the top right corner is black/burnt. Do these ever just do that? Or what can I check to see what would cause this? Thsnks guys.

 

Sometimes the capacitors will leak over time and cause a short in the circuit board. However, that looks more like a circuit external from the ECU was shorted and caused a component to overheat.

Have you replaced any sensors or done any unplugging of connectors previous to this happening?

 

I did change the crank positioning sensor, some little module in the distributor, and the ignition switch under the steering wheel. I also tried to test these multiple ways. I did test the ignition switch by splicing two wires and touching them to try and "bypass" it...

 

That looks like more of a fire then over heating. I would go and ohm test your wires on the stuff you replaced, just to make sure you dont have a short somewhere. No its not normal for the ECU's to fry, but you are going to need to new one.

 

I just picked up another ecu from a junkyard, though im not sure if its the same. Its from an 01 while mine is a 98, both were automatics though. They look identical, both don't have any matching numbers. Ive searched up and down google, but cant find anything really specific to it.

 

Post up the 6 missing digits 37820-***-*** and your Accord trim level/engine code and someone will be able to tell you know if it will work or not.

There are a couple different OBD2 ECU's for the 6th generation Accord (98-02). ULEV, VTEC and Non VTEC, also manual and automatic variants.

 

Fried one-----paa-L61
One I picked up---- paa-a54

Sorry, Didnt see this set with cover plate on, I thought none matched. My car is a 98 accord, 4cyl vtec auto. The engine wasnt in car at junkyard, all I know is 2001 auto. Thanks for all the replies guys, i've been walking in circles. I may have fried it trying to test all the electricsl parts... Admittingly I have no idea what I was doing, just trying to follow google. I even spliced wires on ignition switch and touched together (following google)..my mechanic is thinking the car doesnt start because of the immobilizer. He says this because when the key was turned on, the green light would not come on at all.

 

Yes the PAA-A54 will work. However, your original ECU is a California emissions ECU. The "L" = California or high altitude emissions and the "A" = basic US model ECU. Do you need to pass any sort of emissions testing?

As well when you get a new ECU. You are going to have to get your ECU programmed to work with your cars Immobilizer system. If you call around you should be able to find a lock smith that can do this for fairly cheap. If not you will have to take it to a Honda/Acura dealership to have it programmed.

 

No emmissions to worry about. Do you know if the light should come on when key is to "on" position? Thanks, Neil