BSG

Can someone be very helpful and tell me where I can find my ECU and my Inertia Switch?

First started noticing it took several cranks to get it to start after a hard rain. This pointed to either the distributer cap or the ECU.

Then I hit a rain-filled pothole in the road so hard that popped my tire. Now, not only will it not start it won't even crank. The lights come on and that's it. No crank. I understand they have a sort of "emergency cut off" and I might just need to push my inertia switch.

Have already replaced:
-The main relay
-The distributer cap

Have already tested:
-The starter
-The battery
-The alternator

Have even tested the fuses in case one was blown.

Mechanic keeps thinking it's the ignition switch but those usually only go bad in the 96 and up Hondas.

I want to check the ECU - but problem is I can't FIND the flipping thing. I've consulted the owners manual and google searched. I want to check to see if it's corroded!

Also, if it's the ECU, do I have to buy a whole new one or can it be saved or a part or two replaced? I called around and they're like $300 0_0

If I had $300 to throw around I wouldn't be driving a 94. LOL

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

No Start Diagnosis Basics

BSG

Great, thanks, now can you tell me where I can find my ECU and my Inertia Switch?

Important to note: It can be started with a screwdriver from neutral. It did not cut out immediately after hitting the pothole. It continued driving along as normal. It was after I shut it off it would not start again.

BSG

Can someone be very helpful and tell me where I can find my ECU and my Inertia Switch?

First started noticing it took several cranks to get it to start after a hard rain. This pointed to either the distributer cap or the ECU.

Then I hit a rain-filled pothole in the road so hard that popped my tire. Now, not only will it not start it won't even crank. I know they have a sort of "emergency cut off" and I might just need to push my inertia switch.

Have already replaced:
-The main relay
-The distributer cap

Have already tested:
-The starter
-The battery
-The alternator

Have even tested the fuses in case one was blown.

Mechanic keeps thinking it's the ignition switch but those usually only go bad in the 96 and up Hondas.

I want to check the ECU - but problem is I can't FIND the flipping thing. I've consulted the owners manual and google searched. I want to check to see if it's corroded!

Also, if it's the ECU, do I have to buy a whole new one or can it be saved or a part or two replaced? I called around and they're like $300 0_0

If I had $300 to throw around I wouldn't be driving a 94. LOL

Wrona

Inertia Switch on a civic?>??? umm no there is none...

instead of throwing useless parts at it how about you troubleshoot the problem try an ECU from a Known working car

also you have not provided any information about the car what so ever except its a 94

your ECU is in the passanger side kick panel right nex to the door under the glovebox

just like that

BSG

Are you sure? These people on this honda civic form say their cars have them http://www.civiclife.net/board/topic...ow-wont-start/ Sometimes they are called the "Reset Button" or "Electric Fuel Pump Switch" They have them for sale for honda civics...

It's a 94 Honda Civic LX 4 door. What other info are you looking for?

I don't know anyone with another honda civic that would let me take the ECU out of their car to test. How would you suggest I go about it?

Important to note: It can be started with a screwdriver from neutral. It did not cut out immediately after hitting the pothole. It continued driving along as normal. It was after I shut it off it would not start again.

beatontheeznutz

do you have fuel pressure?

Wrona

those people are from europe ive never had experiance with european hondas but i know usdm hondas after taking htem apart never seen it

Former User

Check whether the rubber stopper (red arrow) that presses on the safety starter switch located at the top of the clutch pedal has fallen out or is broken:

B18C5-EH2

If you have a 1994 Civic it absolutely does NOT have any sort emergency "cut off" switch. Some people might offer one as an aftermarket (not OEM) modification, but again your car could be dropped off a cliff and crushed, and the engine should still crank provided nothing with the engine or ECU is damaged.



As far as the car "won't crank" does it even try to spin over, or does it spin over repeatedly, but just won't start?

If it doesn't spin over at all do exactly what Ron posted, and check that clutch safety switch insert. They crumble and fall apart, causing the power to the starter to be cut off, and thus no start - not even spinning over. If that clutch safety switch insert is still intact, and the engine won't spin over, then the next thing to do is to check for power at the starter when someone turns the ignition switch to the "start/crank" position.

If it spins over then we need to go down the path of checking for fuel and fire.

BTW:

Do you have a cold air intake? Did you run through a deep water puddle? If you ran through water deep enough your engine could have ingested water (even with a stock intake system), and thus hydro locked it - that might be why the engine won't start if it doesn't spin over.

B18C5-EH2

BTW I just saw this:

What do you mean by "start with a screw driver?"

Former User

I assume that the OP is bridging the starter motor terminal to the starter solenoid terminal with a screwdriver.

Former User

One thread per topic. Related threads merged.

BSG

You guys are freaking genius. I looked in my floorboard and there laid the broken remnants of the yellow rubber stopper. I got under there with a flashlight, and after a few tries located where the missing rubber button goes. I gave a "whoop!"

Does anyone know the name of this part so I can buy it? I called the local auto parts store and they say they don't sell them individually and I'd have to buy a whole new starter just to get the rubber button.

Is there a quick fix, something I can make myself from parts around the house?

Former User

Some people just hot glue a coin over the hole. Otherwise, pick up a new stopper at your local Honda dealer.

BSG

Found the part name and number for all who might need it in the future:

"Brake Pedal & Accelerator Stops" or "Brake Pedal Bumper"

It's O'reilly's part # 74015
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...?keyword=74015

It'l run you about six bucks.

BSG

Well crap. Can't figure out how to get this part in. Anyone know how to keep the clutch held down while at the same time you reach up to put the part in?

jbpnoman

One hand on the clutch pedal, one hand on the tool, or you can disconnect the clutch cable from the pedal and let it flop.

Wrona

clutch cable on a 94??

BSG

Well f*ck. I ordered the part, couldn't get it in, the guy at Oreillys said he'd pop it in for me, and instead he broke off a bushing that was still perfectly good and popped in my new one in the wrong place. I am having to re-order the part and wait all over again.

This really has me cussing.

B18C5-EH2

It's waaaay up high, and in a horrible position.

I use a long flathead screw driver, and ball up a small piece of tape to make the plastic stopper stick to the screw driver, then slide it into position while pressing the clutch in with my other hand.

BSG

Okay. the pedal bushing came with a pedal stop of similar size, and I put petroleum jelly on it and popped it right in. The car started right up. Should've just tried the vaseline on the first one and I bet I'd have got it in. Still undecided if I want to go back for the second part that's now on order.

BSG

Ahhhh. Where were you an hour ago before I went back to Oreilly's?

jbpnoman

The part where it connects to the pedal. I couldn't think of what to call it on a hydraulic system, so I just went with the generic "cable".

94EG8

Btw, the OEM Honda part number is: 46505-SA5-000 List price is only $2.27