hi i was draining my oil and noticed metal shaving . So i took off my oil pan, i noticed right away chunks of metal on my oil pick up. what does this mean? before pulling out the motor i did hear knocking but was not consistant so i thought it was piston slap. motor has about 5k-10k miles on it. if anything how do i go about figuring out where the shavings came from? should i just tare it all apart and check the parts?

my set up
gsr 84 mm benson sleeved
cp 10:1 piston
eagle rods
balance pistons, rods, fly wheel, crank, crank pulley, and crank
gsr head
supertech springs retainers
ferrea 6000 series valves
type r cams

turbo
sp mini rap 2.75 dp
tial waste gate
60-1 garret turbo
1000 cc id injectors
tune on hondata s300

 

I'm hoping its not a spun bearing

 

judging by the coloring, time for a rebuild!

 

This.

Looks like bearings.

 

ouch. that sucks i guess im lucky . since i blew the trans i pulled the whole motor .hopefully there is no damage to rod or crank yet.

 

How can these problems occur on an well build setup like Phaphon's? :O
Feel sad for you man ;<

 

im not sure . this is going to be my fourth rebuild . laskey was the last person who rebuilt it. so i know the build was not the problem. not to mad about it .this just sucks period i had the car for only about 2 years . and im on my fourth rebuild.

 

Goddamn lol 4 rebuilds within 2 years, what were the causes of your last few rebuilts?

 

one my friend blew the motor then sold it to me. rebuilt it then boosted . crack a sleeve on the dyno. then rebuilt it machine shop used cheap bearings. spun a bearing. then laskey built it . im not sure why this one spun.

 

Have you line bored the mains? Or should I say did HE?

 

thats def a spun bearing ive seen this plenty of times

 

line bore the mains? i thought that was if i used arp main bolts?




im taring it down right now any sugguestions on what u should check or take pictures of?

 

check the big ends of the rods for roundness, check the main journals and crank for straightness. How much timing si it running at full boost? any detonation on the plugs?

 

1 spun bearing would be enough to worry me. 2 spun bearings on the same block would worry me more. There is no rule of thumb of when exactly you should line bore w block. Measuments are taken, and they are either in spec or they are not. The bore is what should be near perfectly round. The bearings are what creates the eccentric. Most of the time the caps are milled and rebored during ARP rod bolt and main stud installations. This is the same process for when bearings are spun. Most don't risk it on connecting rods, and just purchase a new one. Others though, like to paint them and sell them to some stupid kid on Honda-Tech.

 

ok so i will take it to my machine shop, to check for straightness on the main cap bores. also get my connecting rods for out of roundness. i took lots of pictures i will post right now as soon as i upload them.

ok here are the picture i forgot to take pictures of the piston tops . that will be done right after i get done posting this.

its 1-4 left to right




bearings for journal number 3


journal number2


journal number 1 and 4 look good still so i didnt take the pictures but let me know if i should snap it

 

pictures are always nice

 

it might not be a rod....
that copper definitely means a bearing has de-laminated

 

Yeah, neither of those bearings are showing copper yet. All of the others are fine? Could there have been some shavings from a set-up that spun bearings before left anywhere?

 

Here, if you haven't seen this already, read the couple links I posted in this guys thread...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/crankshaft-runout-tunnels-really-need-help-here-3094155/

 

maybe. but i would have thought that laskey has clean everything good befor he assembled it. the reason i think the bearing was going to let go oj number 2 is, theres a groove in the bearing.