1fastgsrturbo

Me and my boy just tor down my freshly built motor to see want was hitting inside the motor? ( Yes hitting inside the motor). When we first started the motor when you tried to rev the motor up it sound like something hitting a shield or something in the motor. Well today we took the head off to see if it was coming from the head but everything looked fine. I dropped the oil pan, windage tray, and oil pickup and had my friend turn the crank to see if we could see anything. At first nothing but then I noticed 2 notches on #2 and #3 oil squirters. ANd for some reason when the #2 and #3 pistons come down the cleareance is real tight. My question is i dont want to remove them b/c i know the importance but has anybody had a similar problem like thisa and what might be a few ideas to fix this problem?
My set up is the following:


Gsr Block
Darton M.I.D Sleeve Kit
83mm Cp pistons
Eagle Rods

Flamenco-T

It is very rare for the crank weights to hit the squirter, if it is the same crank and squirter and the squirter aren't bend, then they shouldn't hit it. The only time I have ever seen it was a different crank and it was an LS crank.

If you have the CP pistons, you can just take the squirters out, forged pistons does not need any cooling like stock casted pistons, I plugged mine on my car, just cut the nozzle, weld it shut and screw it back on.

stan

ClubSiRacer

Personaly, i'd probably keep them on a street driven car. (as if it'd really matter since not all Honda engines even came with oil squirters to begin with)

4U2NV

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ClubSiRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personaly, i'd probably keep them on a street driven car. (as if it'd really matter since not all Honda engines even came with oil squirters to begin with)</TD></TR></TABLE>


I would as well... Their purpose is to keep the pistons cool during high revs, but I've also heard that by cooling the pistons with oil, it in turn cools the rods, which in turn keep the bearings cool and keep them lubricated at high rpms...

Also, with oil squirters hitting, I have had some friends with built motors whose pistons hit the squirters... I believe both of them were running Eagle rods, and the rod bolts stretched...

got v-tec

ive seen it where people would hone the cylinders without taking the squirters out and on the down stroke twist the off to the side or bend them down to where they would hit the crank.

1fastgsrturbo

the crank is just tapping the #2 and #3 oil squirters and it shows by two little notches on the bottom side of the squirter. I called the machine shop who installed the darton sleeves( they also took the squirters out to install the sleeves), they said that they checked the clearences and everything should of been ok.( go figure) Shouldn't I just be able to losen the two squirters up and kind of reposition them?

sneezin94

ABACUS Racing told me that u really dont need oil squirters

Forrest Gump 9

Can't you just bent the #2 and #3 oil squirters down a little and check if they hit?

baphomet

Remove them, you do not need them with forged pistons.

Turboed ED7

My built GSR bottom end has the squrters removed im running endyn pistons and manley rods if that matters.

TheSwift1

you know what? i'm having this same dilema (well, almost)...

i'm in the process of building my block (GS-R w/ Si head), but i've noticed that the clearance between the crank counterweights and the oil squirters is very small (i slipped a clearance gauge in there just to check) and i don't remember exactly how much clearance it was, but it was too close for comfort...i'm also using Eagle rods w/ JE pistons....hmmmm.....

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Is it hitting on the concave side or convex side of the squirter?

If it's just a notch like you said, I find it hard for it to be a counterweight brushing on it. The wear mark would be different if it were the crank hitting it.

Also, rod bolt stretch should not be a contributing factor in the pistons hitting the squirters. When any given piston/rod is at the bottom of the stroke, there aren't any tensile forces pulling on the rod bolts, just compressive.

You can move the squirters a little, but there's only so much you can move it.

earl

Here is the problem..Whoever pulled the squirters out of the engine, grabbed them by the nozzle and pulled up on them..thus bending them up. All you need to do is GENTLY push them back down and out of the way...no big deal.
If you push them too hard, they can break, so just do it easily and you will be fine. I'm surprised you did not catch this while building the motor. As you turned the motor over by hand, you should have heard the noozzles hitting the counterweights. BTW, you should be able to do this while laying on your back under the motor. No need to pull it all apart.