Tried removing my VTEC solenoid today, to change the screen/gasket, plus give it a good cleaning. I figure it's due after 133k miles...

The first bolt I tried removing would not budge. Not only would it not budge, but due to the bad angle and lack of visibility, I managed to make it a bit round. My 10mm socket would no longer grip it. So, went at it with a Craftsman bolt-out, which is supposed to grip the head and help you remove it. Nope. Turns out, the bolt is rusted into place to the point that the bolt-out tool just made the head even rounder. So now, the VTEC solenoid is being held in place by a bolt that has a round head, smaller than a 10mm, larger than a 9mm, the #4 bolt-out won't grip it, and the #2 won't fit on the head. Not only that, I haven't even attempted to remove the other 2 bolts that hold it in place.

Help.

 

If it ain't broke....

 

...Then you aren't turning it hard enough.

 

Hit it with some good penetrating oil (not WD-40) and let it soak overnight. Then use either a) crow's foot b) a wobble extension c) a socket joint.

If the bolt head is rounded you can try to hammer a socket on it.

 

Eventually, that would be routine maintenance

 

Hammering a smaller socket on works a lot of times. If that doesn't work I pull out the cut off wheel.

 

I'm thinking of trying the hammer first, though there isn't a lot of room between the engine and the firewall to swing a hammer.

 

Try removing the passenger axle and going through the wheel well.

 

and ALWAYS use a 6 point with bolts that are hard to get out, also... how is it rusted to Aluminuim?

 

hope its gone your way , dam that sucks

 

leave it alone

 

I've had luck with some vise grips

 

I did use a 6-pointer. I'm guessing that the combination of it being slightly off-angle, combined with an awkward reach to get to it, and the fact that the surface of the bolt was sufficiently deteriorated, caused the socket to slip.

As for how it's rusted into place, the bolts go through the VTEC solenoid's heat shield before entering the head, and the heat shield is made of a metal that does get quite rusty after 10+ years on the car. I imagine that once I'm able to break them loose, they'll (hopefully) come out without a fight. I did have the good sense to buy new ones before I attempted to remove them, once I saw how rusted they were.

 

Try using some PB Blaster. What I had used to get a rounded off nut taken off was i think a brinks socket set and it worked perfectly to get it off. not too sure if that is the same as the craftsmen.

 

my advice is with it's location leave it alone. You'll probably only make it worse from here.

 

Well, I probably can't make it worse than I've already made it, and besides the fact that I suspect the screen may be slightly clogged, I understand that the gasket on it has a propensity to leak.

Plus, (and I know I'm not alone here) just knowing that there's a damaged fastener holding something onto my car's engine is enough to keep me up at night. I'm giving it one more shot, but if I can't remove it myself, I'm not too proud to admit defeat and seek help from professionals.

 

this will work forsure..... if you really want that bolt out.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=turbo...9,r:1,s:0,i:80 THEY HAVE NEVER FAILED FOR ME

 

Already tried it. All it did was shave the remaining corners off.

 

with an impact?

 

Pull the engine then if it's that bad... it's a tough spot to get into. You can have it out and back in in a day

 

It may come to that...

 

OH Gosssshhhhh!!



Op post pics please...


I also asked if you used the extracters with a impact or hAND ratchet.

 

I used a standard 3/8" ratchet. I don't have a compressor in my garage... Yet.