I posted this in the tuning forum, but that area doesnt have the traffic that the Drag Racing does.

1st off, does anyone know if this solenoid will work? Its larger in physical size and is a normally closed solenoid. I get them from work for free, but i just got laid off so if this works it would make it easier on my money situation.





2nd, In trying to see if the solenoid will work, i set it up to see if it would cycle with the engine not running but key on. And it doesnt. However when switching between normally open and normally closed i can hear the solenoid clicking so i know the ECU and wiring are all correct. So can someone tell me what settings i can use with the key on, engine off to make the solenoid cycle. Id like to test it with the car off or at least just idling before i go out and drive around and waste the gas trying to get it to work.

These are the setting i use to switch back and forth (between normally open and normally closed) to make the solenoid click.

 

S300 has a flex fuel tab?

 

http://www.hondata.com/help/smanager...?flex_fuel.htm

 

Now that thats out of the way....lol

 

I'm with you a1320. Also trying to get confirmed settings with key on engine off that will make the solenoid click duty cycle for sure. Someone who has actually accomplished this please chime in.

Solenoid testing in Neptune is sooooooo much easier. Wish hondata had a sure test solenoid function written into the software like Neptune!

 

I don't think it will pulse without the car running in Hondata

It might have a lower rpm limit that isn't adjustable

 

The solenoid will pulse once on the initial key powering up of the ecu.

I have not tried the following but I am 90% sure it will work:
You can simply set the control method to fixed duty and enter a value of around 30% and set the activation pressure to 885 mbar. With the engine running the solenoid should be clicking.

 

I set mine at 885 and it was just showing 99% on the sensors screen. So i movied it down to 500 and when it was lower it would show 0%, and revving it up showed it going straight to 99% no matter what i set the duty cycle to. So its like it just turning it of and on instead of cycling it.

 

OK...im uploading a video now. Got mine to work by using the variable frequency. Anything higher that 24Hz and it shuts off...the lower the Hz the slower it cycle reguardless of duty cycle settings. I dont think thats right, if i remember right, changing the duty cycle should increase or decrease the cycling of the solenoid.

 

why the hell do all your boost tables have a - in front of the numbers, ??

 

 

Cause i havent even touched those parts of the table. When i built the new map, those were the figures that were just in there lol.

 

What I did to test my solenoids when I was having problems was set an air nozzle to X pressure and shot it into the solenoid and a spare hooked up map sensor with key on engine off and played with my settings until i felt air through the solenoid I knew I got it. Might work for you.

 

Ive checked the ecu components and installation. And the wiring is all correct. If you watch the video you can see its working right. I think my solenoid might just be a bit too big and require more than what the ecu can put out.

 

I believe the problem is that your solenoid is a 24v solenoid that operates at 8.5 watts.
Its the wrong solenoid. You need a solenoid that operates at 12v at 5.4 watts.

 

The solenoid says right on it 12V

 

You are correct the label states 12v.
I googled the part number on your solenoid & it popped up as a 24v solenoid but the website was wrong.
I found the datasheet & it is in fact a 12 volt solenoid.

What color are the resistors you used at r70 and r71?

What transistor did you install into q29 and q20 ?

 

Yeah i did the same thing, but we use the solenoid in machines at work in a 12v capacity. but i know the 8.5 watts is more than what every other solenoid used for PWM in managements is used. So Im not sure if thats an issue or not.

 

I couldn't answer that because I have never tried the valve you are using.

 

But increasing the duty cycle should make an audible change in the solenoid right? It shouldnt be changing the Hz that does that. Correct?

 

This 99% is the quick spool function...lower those values (below solenoid activation pressure) to make it pulse at the fixed duty cycle you have selected in the software

 

UPDATE: Ok I have made progress. I was unable to get the software to trigger pwm with key on engine off. Thanks to Xenocron for the suggestion about there being a minimum rpm limit in the software for pwm triggering. I took his suggestion and was testing the pwm with key on engine on @ idle. With the car idling I can make the software trigger pwm by setting activation pressure to 29.5 inches and adjusting the fixed duty cycle either higher or lower. I connected a bulb to a 12 v source and the neg to a11 on the ecu. With the car idling I was able to vary the intensity of the light bulb with the pwm settings, so I know for sure that it's working indeed. Chris was also correct about the quick spool being 99%.

To re-iterate, I have only gotten this to work with the engine running!!