Hello. I am new to the board and would appreciate it if someone would help me by giving some info about how to bleed the brake line on a 94 Accord EX Coupe. I changed the pads today and after finished, when I pushed on the brakes I, the pedal went straight to the floor and I had NO brakes at all. I've been searching the board and I think I know the problem, I probably got air in the lines which is stopping my piston in the caliper to extract, giving me no brakes, but I haven't come across any info on this board that will help me. I'd appreciate it if someone has the knowledge or a link that can help me with my problem.

 

If you didn't open the bleeders then just pump the pedal a few times. If you did then if your by yourself then fill up the master cylinder with brake fluid and open all the bleeders and let them drip for a while. Then close then all go back inside pump the pedal a few times then go open them and let them all drip again making sure not to let the master go empty. If you have a friend with you do one corner of the car at a time starting with the r/r, lr, rf, lf. Have him hold the pedal down and you open the bleeder, then close the bleeder and then have him release the pedal then press again and you open it again. Do this a few times at each corner of the car. Again making sure the master doesn't run dry.

 

Thanx, Will Try. What do i do with the Master Cylinder. Do I leave it open or closed durring bleeding? Also is it necessary to disable the SRS?

 

What do i do with the Master Cylinder. Do I leave it open or closed durring bleeding? Also is it necessary to disable the SRS?

 

leave cover open is fine to keep on adding fluid, you dont need to disable abs, or srs.

 

95.. U are wrong on so many levels....

When you push the pistions into the caliper you need to pump the brake peddle like 100 times and pressure will return... theres no way to put air into the calipers from just compressing the pistons in.

Gravity bleeding brakes is a great way to let air into the system

To bleed the brakes,
Get a few feet of air hose for fish air pimps
A line wrench
Bottle with a screw on lid
Brake fluid

Put hole in lid of bottle, push air line into bottle till touches bottom, open bottle and poor about a inch of brake fluid in the bottle, Attach other end of air line to bleeder nipple and put line wrench on nipple, Crack bleeder, get in car and pump brake peddel a few times, Check master cylinder (dont let master cylinder run dry), Pump a few more times, go back and shut bleeder valve, move on to the other calipers. The airline and flid in the bottle will keep the air from re entering into the caliper.

 

All you gotta do when replacing the pads is open the cover at the master cylinder and get a piston compresser and put it into the piston and slowly(REPEAT SLOWLY) compress the piston. This will push the piston in, which pushes the fluid back to the master cylinder. Then put pads in and then start the car and gently push the pedal to make sure that there is no play. Assuming the pads are brand new you shouldn't even really need to push the brakes much, if at all, to verify that they are pushing the brake pads.

This assumes you don't actually want to bleed the brakes, which isn't completely necessary but is desirable when you do the pads. Air should never get into the system unless you open it up.

 

Ok, I have been working on cars professionally for almost 16 years now, Never got air in or a bad brake pedal by gravity bleeding brakes. You can get air in if someone releases the brake pedal with the bleeders open. I've never had a problem myself.

 

leave master open.
connect wrench to nipple, connect tube with other end in collecting jar, crack bleeder open, have friend stomp on brake and hold, close nipple, release pedal.
repeat.

make sure master does not go empty.

this is the fastest way to do it. you can also use a mityvac with bleeder attachment in lieu of a friend, it uses vacuum to bleed the brakes.

 

IMO The fish pump air line and 1" of fluid in a jar trick works the best if you are alone. No need for any fancy vacuum pump or the issues that come with gravity bleeding for novices.

Another trick is not to start the car before you start pumping the breaks. I have always found it better to pump up the breaks/aka set the caliper pistons back in place while the car is not running. No need to slam the caliper pistons back into place with hydraulic assistance. That is an easy way to possibly blow a caliper piston seal. Been there done that!

Besides if all you did was compress the caliper and you did not break any of the flex lines loose or crack the bleed screws. Then there is no need to be bleeding the brakes anyway! I have never bled brakes after replacing pads and rotors.

 

Sorry but I am a complete beginner. What is the difference between the bleeder and the nipple? Is the nipple the piece on top of the caliper that has the black rubber cap on it?

 

The bleeder is the whole part the nipple is the top part that the fluid actually comes out of.

I have been working on cars for almost 20 years there 95 and I have all of the ASE's im pretty sure I know what I am saying. Gravity bleeding has a much larger chance of air getting into the line. Also if you though that air got in the line while compressing the piston in to the caliper your not much of a tech. Also if you didnt know you needed you pump the brake peddle after compressing the piston in, you havent done to many brake jobs.

 

Also if you though that air got in the line while compressing the piston in to the caliper your not much of a tech. Also if you didnt know you needed you pump the brake peddle after compressing the piston in, you havent done to many brake jobs.

I'm not the person who started this post. I didn't do my brakes like this. And anyone who does brakes should know that if you compress the piston in there isn't going to be air in the line from that.

 

I would suggest taking it to a mechanic shop, and make sure it gets fixed the right way. Good luck.

 

yes, take off the black rubber cap which exposes the nipple. put on wrench that fits below the nipple, put on tube on nipple to collect fluid. bleed away according to the previous steps.

 

I was the one who started the thread and I got the job done. I'd like to thank everyone who responded for their tips and advice. Thanks to the tips I did the bleed job ABMS [with new(used) calipers] and didn't have to cash out a shop. One thing in closing. Can we please try to stay away from the underhanded cheap shots! Hidenplanvew & 95halx the shots aren't necessary. As a beginer you both helped me alot and I hope we can use this board to do more of that. I look forward to communicating with the likes of you again if/when the time comes. I again would sincerely like to thank all who contributed.

rollindeeper