As the subject says I'm rebuilding my motor a D16Y8. I've only owned the car for about a year and a half and it's been boosted for the last 10k miles. I keep on regular stuff like plugs, oil, filters etc.

Tore it down to a bare block for some forged pistons and rods and while it's apart I figure this is the perfect time to freshen up and replace anything that needs to be taken care of considering 187000 miles and unknown history.

So far my list looks like this
pistons
rods
rod and main bearings
new main bearing cap bolts
timing belt
alternator, a/c, and p/s belts
water pump
oil pump
all seals, gaskets etc.
probably vtec screen since it's also the rubber seal that prevents the housing from leaking.
spark plugs
new crank pulley dampner bolt
head studs

The cylinder head leaves me wondering a little. I'm pretty sure I can pull the cam out and each of the valves and put new valve guides and seals in. I've done it on non Honda non vtec motors and hopefully this head is similar. What about the valves though? Do I need a machine shop to do a valve job? What dictates needing a valve job? Can they just pressure test and check for leaking valves and decide from there? I'm going to have them resurface the head.

Thanks for any tips & guidance

Malcolm

 

Your parts list is dead on the money for the short block overhaul. As for the head there is a simple test you and/or the machine shop can perform to check for valve leakage. Pull the head and turn it upside down. Pour water into the combustion chamber until the valves are completely submerged. Now simply look in the intake and exhaust ports to see if the water is running out. If it is you have leak down. I can save you the trouble and tell you right now that at 187,XXX miles you are definitely going to have leakage. The machine shop will need to perform a valve job which will consist of cutting the valve seat in the head to make it true, then replacing and lapping the valve, or cutting and lapping the original valves. If you don't have a straight edge and/or feeler gauges to check for straightness of the head and block have the machine check these as well. They may or may not need to be resurfaced.

 

If you do new guides then you need a new VJ as the stem center may change. Check the valve wobble in the current guide against the service limit. If its fine, leave it alone. The seats also need to be checked for roundness. Otherwise new valves will not seal. If its all good you can simply lap the valves.

 

Cool thanks guys. I spoke to the machine shop and they will check it for me tomorrow and see how much has to be done. I think at very least new guides and reseating them (lap job?) at minimum.

 

What about my turbo manifold? I have a stainless steel log from goautoworks.com and the flange that goes against the cylinder head appears to have warped out on the edges. I was hoping a really thick steel unit from a reputable place would not do this but just the nature of the beast I suppose.

Is it a good idea to have the machine shop smooth that out? Seems like they would need to shave off quite a bit to make that all flat again. Would that be bad?

 

This^^^. If you cant check the head yourself take it to a good machine shop to have them go over it. I did this with my PR3 head and I got it cleaned, tested, a 3 angle valve job resurfaced for good measure and needed 1 exhaust valve guide and it cost about $250. While the head is off it is a good time to clean up the casting flaws in the ports and do a port match on it.
Goauto is a very reputable company and makes top quality manifolds. I would contact them on it, their customer service is really good.

 

I am VERY curious how you can replace valve guides in a Honda head, yet don't know when you need a a valve job or not? This just keeps getting more and more interesting...

 

Dont you just smack them out with a hammer anyway? Its not THAT hard to replace guides.

 

No they should be pressed out and pressed back in. It really sounds like the OP should be taking the head to a machine shop.

 

You are funny guy. The head needs to be heated (material determines temperature) and then they are pressed out and in. This is important otherwise bad things may happen when the engine is at full operating temperature and you are sitting around 8k+ RPMs... There are many ways to do things but the right way is always very limited...

 

Dropped block, head, mains girdle, crank, manifold, pistons, rods etc. all off at the machine shop this morning. As for the head they will do a full valve job for me, replace any valves that need replacing, valve guides etc.
They are also balancing the rotating assembly and asked I also bring in my flywheel and dampner too so I'll drop those off tomorrow. Should all be ready to start assembling late next week.