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Fitment of RR Replica S/S

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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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vtecnique69's Avatar
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From: Crook County
Default Fitment of RR Replica S/S

I figure I'd post here because it's more model specific than a general autobody question...

Anyone have replica RR S/S installed? How was fitment between the ends, under the doors? And how has it held up? I'm more worried about them staying straight along the door sill.

I have had S/S installed where the double sided tape doesn't hold the centers and they start to pull away from the body and droop down. These skirts have all the mounting holes and hardware to support the bottom and sides, but they aren't the straightest in the worls but they aren't as bad as a knock off could be.

Any info on any of these? I don't have a site of purchase because I bought them through a private sale.
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 03:49 AM
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From: Brandon, Manitoba, Canada
Default Re: Fitment of RR Replica S/S

If they are anything like the HFP skirts, they will have a bracket that requires drilling the lower skirts of the body and mounting that bracket. The skirt hangs off that bracket and is secured on the ends by the screws holding the wheel well liners in as well as the rear mud guards.

Note, your OEM mud guards won't fit with the skirts installed.
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 04:24 AM
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From: Crook County
Default Re: Fitment of RR Replica S/S

I haven't taken a close look at all the hardwar but I noticed mounting points along the bottom of the skirt and shiny silver brackets that I can only imagine would mount right there.

But what i'm worried about is the sill edge that lines up against the door edge being wavy to the point that it pulls away from the body. it looks like everything else lines up good.
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 03:59 AM
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Default Re: Fitment of RR Replica S/S

that is that same concern with all un-bonded body kits, the chance of them pulling away from the original bodywork. My HFP skirts are attached the same way and the only parts of the skirts that show any pulling are the parts at the front that rise up behind the wheel arches in front of the door seam. That section is held with the screws in the wheel wells and some double sided tape at the top. They didn't use any brackets there so the material will eventually pull out on you. The gap is noticeable, but not overly large.
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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From: Crook County
Default Re: Fitment of RR Replica S/S

Well i pulled them out of the box today and did a loose test fit and I'm surprised how well and tight they fit. There won't be any need for spacers but the end that fits in the rear wheel well is overly large and I don't know how the brackets will attach (I'll post pics of them later).

The only piece that I can see pulling away are the flaps by the rear door - they actually flare out quite a bit although a good body shop should be able to heat & bend it back into place (it only sticks out about 1/2-3/4").
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 03:46 AM
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Default Re: Fitment of RR Replica S/S

I measured my skirts for gap distance last night, I am only out 1/4" on the drivers side and 3/16" on the passenger side. The gap you mentioned will definitely have to be reduced and bonded to the chassis to prevent the Polyethelyne from contracting and pulling when it gets cold. It does get cold where you are right?
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 01:07 PM
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From: Crook County
Default Re: Fitment of RR Replica S/S

Of course, I'm in Chicago.

You measured the top flap?
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 03:41 AM
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Default Re: Fitment of RR Replica S/S

Yes, I will grab a couple of pics tonight and put them up so you can see what I mean here. I have no choice but to keep reapplying that crappy double sided tape to keep my top flaps stuck to the body. But the weather patterns here in the frozen north keep killing the tape and the flaps pop.
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