I have a 91 crx dx with a d16a6 swap, and it won't run. It has spark and fuel, but won't fire. I drove it onto the interstate today to go to school and once i was in fifth gear, the car lost power but was still running, I floored it and it kept slowing down. I went to downshift and as soon as I pushed in the clutch the engine wasn't running. I have no clue what is wrong with it. Within the past year I have put a new battery, alternator, distributor, distributor cap, distributor rotor, and fuel filter. It currently is not throwing any cel codes, every once in a while a code 1 for an o2 sensor will come up, but the cel will not be illuminated. Just wondering what could be wrong.

 

How did you verify that there was spark and fuel? Next I'd check for mechanical timing and compression.

 

I attached a timing light to each plug wire to make sure if there was any current flowing. For fuel, I loosened the special banjo bolt on the fuel filter, then had a friend turn the ignition on, fuel started coming out.

I doubt it is a compression issue, because the car was running just fine when I left.

How would i go about checking the mechanical timing?

 

There is at least fuel to the rail, but i don't know if any is making it into the engine.

 

That kinda sounds like a timing issue.

 

Does the fuel pump whirrrr for about 3 seconds when you turn the key to ON?

Since you have a timing light, did you check timing?
That would verify your mechanical timing.
(Be sure you disable the electronic ignition advance before trying to check timing)

 

The fuel pump kicks on when the key is turned to the on position.
How would I check timing without the engine running?

 

Is spark bright white at all 4 spark plugs?

Will the engine start with starting fluid?

You need to check the mechanical timing (diagram below) not the ignition timing.

If the timing is fine, compression test the cylinders.

 

Your timing belt skipped a tooth. Check the mechanical timing. If it's off, then replace the timing belt.

 

Spark in all four cylinders is bright white, it will not start with starting fluid.
My mechanical timing is not lining up just right. I am going to pick up a new timing belt this weekend.

 

Thank you for your help.

 

Well, I replaced the timing belt and set the mechanical timing, but it still won't start.

 

 

Okay, so I broke down and took it to a mechanic. They compression tested the cylinders and said 1,3, and 4 had about 125psi while 2 had 0psi. And they reset the timing. They couldn't get it to run. I honestly don't know what to do.

 

They seriously don't know what to do?!

Aside from compression being on the low side for #1/3/4 (maybe even below minimum spec?), 0 compression is already a red flag that something internal is damaged or worn to the point of a necessary replacement and/or full rebuild.

Only thing I can think of that would be the ultimate life saver for your situation is that your valves are overtightened and causing the valves to not fully seat, or in #2's case not seat at all and cause 0 compression.

 

Do a cylinder leak down test to determine where cylinder 2 is losing compression.

 

I did manage to get the car started yesterday. The screw that holds the ignition rotor in backed itself out. I put it back in with locktite and it fired right up.

How would I do a cylinder leak down test?

 

Okay, so I bought a compression test gauge the other day and did a compression test. Compression was fine for cylinders 1 and 4 while 2 and 3 were 15-20psi lower. I started it and it was running on all four.

 

Iirc, 26psi difference is the service limit.

 

I figured out why the car wouldn't run a few months back. I had put a new dizzy, dizzy cap, and new rotor in. The screw which holds the rotor in popped out of the dizzy and was sitting in the dizzy cap. Car runs fine.