1993 CB7 head removal
I've got a 1993 with an F22A9 motor with a blown HG which I'm trying to replace.
I've followed a really good guide (here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-replace-headgasket-f22b2-2335661/) and the factory service manual and finally got to the removing the head bolts stage. Man those things are tight!
Long story short - I have rounded bolt no. 1 and no. 2 (as indicated on the loosening sequence) due to not having a 6 point socket (which, in Australia at least, seem to be very hard to buy individually in a 1/2" drive).
I have broken the tension on most of the bolts and had them move slightly.
So - I've now got a good quality, impact 6-point socket which fits on all bolts except for 1,2,3,4 (not enough clearance). I've got a good quality deep 6-point socket which I can (hopefully!) use on 3 and 4. Unfortunately for 1 and 2 it's looking like the only option is to use bolt grips. The big drama with that is - I only have one, and once they're on a bolt they aint coming off until the bolt is out. They can't be bought individually. I could buy another whole set, but they're $60 for the set.
Bearing all this in mind - the normal loosening sequence is now somewhat out the window. I can do it except for one of the bolts with a rounded head.
My question is - what would be the best way to tackle this? Is there harm in completely removing either bolt #1 or #2 before proceeding further and then loosening the rest of them in sequence? Or do I try and get an individual, or another set of bolt grips?
I've followed a really good guide (here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-replace-headgasket-f22b2-2335661/) and the factory service manual and finally got to the removing the head bolts stage. Man those things are tight!
Long story short - I have rounded bolt no. 1 and no. 2 (as indicated on the loosening sequence) due to not having a 6 point socket (which, in Australia at least, seem to be very hard to buy individually in a 1/2" drive).
I have broken the tension on most of the bolts and had them move slightly.
So - I've now got a good quality, impact 6-point socket which fits on all bolts except for 1,2,3,4 (not enough clearance). I've got a good quality deep 6-point socket which I can (hopefully!) use on 3 and 4. Unfortunately for 1 and 2 it's looking like the only option is to use bolt grips. The big drama with that is - I only have one, and once they're on a bolt they aint coming off until the bolt is out. They can't be bought individually. I could buy another whole set, but they're $60 for the set.
Bearing all this in mind - the normal loosening sequence is now somewhat out the window. I can do it except for one of the bolts with a rounded head.
My question is - what would be the best way to tackle this? Is there harm in completely removing either bolt #1 or #2 before proceeding further and then loosening the rest of them in sequence? Or do I try and get an individual, or another set of bolt grips?
You're gonna be replacing the head so I wouldn't even care about if you damage it if I was you unless you plan on having that exact same head rebuilt. If you wind up not being able to get those bolts out you'd have to, as a last measure, have someone drill off the tops of the bolts then use a pair of pliers to unloosen the rest of the bolt.
Also, when you do finally remove the head, you should check the clearance of the block itself to be sure it didn't get warped.
Also, when you do finally remove the head, you should check the clearance of the block itself to be sure it didn't get warped.
Sorry - I probably didn't make it clear. I'm replacing the head gasket, hoping to NOT replace the head but instead get it checked/reconditioned. If I was planning to replace the head then there's not really a concern, but I'm hoping to avoid destroying it, hence why I was asking.
Got it all undone. Ended up getting the impact socket to fit, and after a good soaking with some penetr8 they all came out, even the ones with rounded heads.
Doesn't look like the head gasket was leaking but the intake manifold gasket was stained green, was very brittle and there's heaps of sludge in the intake ports on the head so I'm guessing that's where my coolant leak was happening.
Next question - I have the head off, but now need to try and undo the crankshaft pulley so I can do the timing belt. How do I do it? Wait until I've put the head back on so I have some compression, or buy the holding wrench or???
Doesn't look like the head gasket was leaking but the intake manifold gasket was stained green, was very brittle and there's heaps of sludge in the intake ports on the head so I'm guessing that's where my coolant leak was happening.
Next question - I have the head off, but now need to try and undo the crankshaft pulley so I can do the timing belt. How do I do it? Wait until I've put the head back on so I have some compression, or buy the holding wrench or???
All good and well. I don't have impact tools though. Nor do I have a head on the motor - which means ANY kind of torque to the crank bolt turns the motor. No matter what I do it won't come off in that state without locking the pulley.
Any tips to get it off in the current state that it's in, without the factory locking tool, or do I have to buy the tool, or just wait until the top end is back in place?
Any tips to get it off in the current state that it's in, without the factory locking tool, or do I have to buy the tool, or just wait until the top end is back in place?
Buy the 50mm crank pulley tool is only $35 at most autopart stores. Then you can sell it once your done if you don't want to keep it. 
Here it is for $15 + shipping. This is the one I use regularly. Powerbuilt Honda 50mm crank pulley removal tool
Now would be a good time to adjust your valves as well.
Buy the valve adjustment tool along with the crank pulley tool and you will have free shipping. Honda 10mm valve adjustment tool
Never had any issues with ether of these tools.

Here it is for $15 + shipping. This is the one I use regularly. Powerbuilt Honda 50mm crank pulley removal tool
Now would be a good time to adjust your valves as well.
Buy the valve adjustment tool along with the crank pulley tool and you will have free shipping. Honda 10mm valve adjustment tool
Never had any issues with ether of these tools.
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Buy the 50mm crank pulley tool is only $35 at most autopart stores. Then you can sell it once your done if you don't want to keep it. 
Here it is for $15 + shipping. This is the one I use regularly. Powerbuilt Honda 50mm crank pulley removal tool
Now would be a good time to adjust your valves as well.
Buy the valve adjustment tool along with the crank pulley tool and you will have free shipping. Honda 10mm valve adjustment tool
Never had any issues with ether of these tools.

Here it is for $15 + shipping. This is the one I use regularly. Powerbuilt Honda 50mm crank pulley removal tool
Now would be a good time to adjust your valves as well.
Buy the valve adjustment tool along with the crank pulley tool and you will have free shipping. Honda 10mm valve adjustment tool
Never had any issues with ether of these tools.
I'm taking the head in to get checked out by a head reconditioning place so I'll be getting them to do the valves.
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